Chinese Carbon Thread and Ebay direct version 7.0 - Page 5
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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by T Ride View Post
    Hey everyone,
    I've been reading through numerous pages of the Chinese carbon threads over the past month and they have been very informative, but as I get closer to buying a few questions have popped up. I'd really appreciate it if someone who owns an FM098 or someone who has ridden one could answer anything they can.

    1. The one major problem with the FM098 from what I've read is problems with the seatpost slipping. I've heard a new seatpost clamp was made but I haven't seen any reports of its effectiveness. Does anyone know how the new seatpost clamp is holding?

    2. From what I have read, the FM098 is very similar to the Venge in its geometry. If I went to a bike shop and got someone to fit me to a Venge, would that help me determine what frame size and stem I should get?

    3. I've seen mixed reports on the ease of internally routing the gearing cables. Are there tubes or something inside of the frame to guide the cables, or is it completely hollow and you have to fish for it?

    4. Should I be getting the braze on derailleur from Shimano, or do I need a band?

    5. The prices I've seen people pay for their frame has like a ~$200 variance. Is it okay to haggle with the people at Dengfu?

    Thanks in advance for your advice, this will be my first bike build and I'm quite inexperienced. I plan on gathering the parts over summer and then building it in the fall.

    HI,

    I have build several bike in the past including 2 chinese frame : the FM069 and The MC296 -see few post above.


    1. Seatpost slipping is du to dimension tolerance problem with the seatpost (to small), the seatube of the frame (to large) or the clamp. I did some measurement in my MC296 build (see post above) and had the combinaison of the 3 problems. Using a transparency film for laser pinter as a shim plus assembly carbon paste solve the problem. I use some blue locktite on the seatclamp bolt for now but a better seat clamp would help. The clamp get loose with vibration. The bolt thread is to big. Note that the seatpost and the frame quality look good, its the dimension tolerance....

    2. The horizontal tube length determine the reach and is the most important factor to consider. If well position on your actual bike, you can us it do some measurement . You can get fit in a store, but some frame look alike but tube length and angle are different. You have to consider this. There is also Competitive cycling calculator and pedal force calculator that can help. Try both, but don't trust the result at 100%, verify that it make sense with your own bike.

    3. Internal cable routing is not difficult but take longer. The frame come with plastic tubing that help to pass the cable, but they are not essential. There a trap at the bottom of those frame normally, that you can remove and catch the wire there. Using the tubing help. if you remove them accidentally of voluntarily, you can enter them in the frame exit and use them to fish the cable out. The caps a the ends of the frame can normally also be remove if you have to catch the cable at the entry and exit. Personally, I prefer to have the rear shift cable enter at the right of the frame and cross with the front shift inside the down tube, that way those cable are in a more straighter line, less bend, and you get less friction. In some situation, a magnet could be useful to orient the cable.

    4. From what I see from the picture of the frame, you have the typical front derailleur hanger - so you need a braze on front derailler. Its always a good idea of ordering an extra front and 2 extra rear deraileur hanger in case that you bend those in a fall.

    5. That frame seems to be available in T700 and T800 carbon. T800 should be lighter but more expensive. Same frame from different seller, they are not lighter and I suspect that the content of T800 are minimal. SO check the weight before buying T800 frame. I dont now if there any stiffness difference between both. I dough, since they use extra material (more weight). Also, confirm the weight with the seller on purchase. I suggest to go with UD carbon since 3k and 12 k is cosmetic. With UD, they can orient the fiber in the stronger direction and the frame in theory will be better, again , in theory.

    Stick with recommended seller from this forum : Denfu, Hongfu , Miracle... If you run in a problem , that were they make a difference...


    I hope this help. Good luke with your build.
    Last edited by SL06; 06-09-2015 at 07:08 AM.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL06 View Post
    HI,

    I have build several bike in the past including 2 chinese frame : the FM069 and The MC296 -see few post above.


    1. Seatpost slipping is du to dimension tolerance problem with the seatpost (to small), the seatube of the frame (to large) or the clamp. I did some measurement in my MC296 build (see post above) and had the combinaison of the 3 problems. Using a transparency film for laser pinter as a shim plus assembly carbon paste solve the problem. I use some blue locktite on the seatclamp bolt for now but a better seat clamp would help. The clamp get loose with vibration. The bolt thread is to big. Note that the seatpost and the frame quality look good, its the dimension tolerance....

    2. The horizontal tube length determine the reach and is the most important factor to consider. If well position on your actual bike, you can us it do some measurement . You can get fit in a store, but some frame look alike but tube length and angle are different. You have to consider this. There is also Competitive cycling calculator and pedal force calculator that can help. Try both, but don't trust the result at 100%, verify that it make sense with your own bike.

    3. Internal cable routing is not difficult but take longer. The frame come with plastic tubing that help to pass the cable, but they are not essential. There a trap at the bottom of those frame normally, that you can remove and catch the wire there. Using the tubing help. The caps a the ends of the frame can normally be remove if you have to catch the cable at the entry and exit. Personally, I prefer to have the rear shift cable enter at the right of the frame and cross with the front shift inside the down tube, that way those cable are in a more straighter line, less bend, and you get less friction.

    4. From what I see from the picture of the frame, you have the typical front derailleur hanger - so you need a braze on front derailler. Its always a good idea of ordering an extra front and 2 extra rear deraileur hanger in case that you bend those in a fall.

    5. That frame seems to be available in T700 and T800 carbon. T800 should be lighter but more expensive. Same frame from different seller, they are not lighter and I suspect that the content of T800 are minimal. SO check the weight before buying T800 frame. I dont now if there any stiffness difference between both. I dough, since they use extra material (more weight). Also, confirm the weight with the seller on purchase. I suggest to go with UD carbon since 3k and 12 k is cosmetic. With UD, they can orient the fiber in the stronger direction and the frame in theory will be better, again , in theory.

    Stick with recommended seller from this forum : Denfu, Hongfu , Miracle... If you run in a problem , that were they make a difference...


    I hope this help. Good luke with your build.
    Thank you so much for answering my questions so throughly! I've also been looking at the FM028 and kind of picked the FM098 randomly.

    Also I'm assuming you got your FM069 from Dengfu or Hongfu. Did you pay with PayPal or just pay with a card, which do you recommend?

  3. #103
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    I ask for a Paypal invoice since Paypal can help to resolve issue. The detail invoice is important . I pay Paypal with my credit card to get the bonus point. I was not aware that you can pay directly by credit card, I am surprise. If, like mine, your credit card have some king of assurance in case of problems, than why not.
    Both are recommended suppliers. If you want a FM069, there a few things to know. HongFU says it sells T1000 carbon frame, and DengFu T800. I am not shure that the frame is different. They seems to have the same weight. During the assembly, I ran in a problem with the Ultegra 6800 front derailleur. The spring of the derailleur was touching the frame. It could be a major problem with a compact crank. I have a post in a forum on this. However, others have reported that they did not have the same problem. So It might be a specific problem with a single frame size or mold. Double check with the supplier before buying. Its the position of the spring of the Ultegra 6800 front deraileur that give the problem. Dura Ace have similar configuration. Other brand might be OK.

    Between the FM069 and the MC296, I would says that they are equivalent on the road - same stiffness, performance, but the direction of the FM069 is fast and the MC296 neutral, I prefer the 296.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL06 View Post
    I ask for a Paypal invoice since Paypal can help to resolve issue. The detail invoice is important . I pay Paypal with my credit card to get the bonus point. I was not aware that you can pay directly by credit card, I am surprise. If, like mine, your credit card have some king of assurance in case of problems, than why not.
    Both are recommended suppliers. If you want a FM069, there a few things to know. HongFU says it sells T1000 carbon frame, and DengFu T800. I am not shure that the frame is different. They seems to have the same weight. During the assembly, I ran in a problem with the Ultegra 6800 front derailleur. The spring of the derailleur was touching the frame. It could be a major problem with a compact crank. I have a post in a forum on this. However, others have reported that they did not have the same problem. So It might be a specific problem with a single frame size or mold. Double check with the supplier before buying. Its the position of the spring of the Ultegra 6800 front deraileur that give the problem. Dura Ace have similar configuration. Other brand might be OK.

    Between the FM069 and the MC296, I would says that they are equivalent on the road - same stiffness, performance, but the direction of the FM069 is fast and the MC296 neutral, I prefer the 296.
    Great! Well that answers my questions that I have, I'm starting to consider the 296 because it is probably lighter and I plan on doing longer rides with the bike. I'll be sure to ask here if I can't figure something out.

  5. #105
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    I'm looking for some advice/information on the following frameset:

    FM011 - Dengfu/Hongfu
    RB008 - Carbonzone (eBay)
    RB043 - Zhongwei

    Is this the same frameset? It certainly looks identical and the published geometry charts are all the same. What causes me a little doubt is that with the Zhongwei version specifically there would appear to be 2 or 3 versions under the same model number: one with the internal routing going into the 'back' of the downtube (like the Hongfu/Dengfu version) and another with the same ports in the side of the headtube/downtube. Also a version with BBright option.

    Can any one shed some light on this?
    Last edited by velocipedes1; 06-10-2015 at 02:48 AM.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL06 View Post
    I have just bought and assemble a MC296 from Miracle Bike. This is the same model as the FM296 from Hong Fu.
    HF advertise T700 and T800 FM296 carbon frame but the weight of both were similar. MC told me that the MC296 was definitively high percent of T800 carbon. The weight was slightly lower but the frame was a bit more expensive.

    The frame I got was well finish , inside and outside. but during the assembly I ran into 2 minor problem.

    First, there a plastic cover under the bottom bracket where the shifter cable come out of the frame and slide in is grove of that cover. I had to file about 1-2 mm of carbon around the hole of the cover where the cable came out of the frame because they were pinch by the cover. This as solve the problem.

    Second, the seatpost that came with the frame was to small and I believe that the seat tube of the framewas also to big. I measure the seatpost diameter around 26,8 to 27,0 mm. It was smaller at the end and bigger closer to the seat. Its suppose to be 27,2 mm exactly. When tigh to the maximum, I was still able to move the seatpost back and forth because there was to much play. I ask last week Miracle for a suggestion on how to fix this and I am waiting for an answer.
    In the meantime, I have cut a piece a Transparency film for laser printer and wrap it around the seat post. The film is made of hard plastic but is thin. I adjust the length for a snug fit, about 1/3 the circumference of the tube I put some carbon paste both side of the Film and install. I did 2 x 100 km ride and the post is solid.

    The ride quality of this frame is fine. THe steering is neutral, I like it. Its not as fast as the FM-069 which I find a bit to reactive. The ride quality is similar the the FM-69. Its absorb well the road vibration at the front but the back is on the rigid side, but till comfortable. My Opus Vivace 2010 was more absorbing at the back on rough road.

    On the other hand, the MC296 seems to have a bit less flex in the bottom braket while climbing than my Opus. The FM069 was similar to the MC296. I feel a bit more efficient.

    In summery, I did about 250 km on the bike and like it. I am still adapting to the change.

    Personally, I would be curious to compare with the MC696. That frame have a longer headtube and would be more appropriate for my riding style (100 km endurance ride, 28 - 30 km/h cruising speed) Other frame in that category is the IP-306/CS-306 / R-016 frame.
    IMG_1505.jpg

    Here a photo of my MC296. Total weight is about 15,5 lbs with carbon wheel. Campy chorus groupo (2011). Frame was 930g as received with derailleur hangers installed. Carbon fork was 340 g
    Just did a 97 km Fondo with a lot of short hills, 1,2 km total ascend. It perform admirably well.

    Very happy.

    Now I have to work on a paint scheme....

  7. #107
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    Just got my Velobuild R-055 back from my friend's paint shop. I had it done similar to the Cervelo R5. I told him to take it easy on the paint, but he put 4 coats of color and then 4 more of clear, lol. Can't blame him though as he builds custom choppers and hotrods for a living. The raw 54cm frame was 915g unpainted. Going to build it up with Sram Force 22.
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    Last edited by raudi; 06-13-2015 at 09:39 PM.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by raudi View Post
    Just got my Velobuild R-055 back from my friend's paint shop. I had it done similar to the Cervelo R5. I told him to take it easy on the paint, but he put 4 coats of color and then 4 more of clear, lol. Can't blame him though as he builds custom choppers and hotrods for a living. The raw 54cm frame was 915g unpainted. Going to build it up with Sram Force 22.
    Did it take any longer to get a raw frame vs. a matt or gloss?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptsbike55 View Post
    Did it take any longer to get a raw frame vs. a matt or gloss?
    No. Got it in 8 days after ordering. Looks like they sanded and prepped for me too. Unfortunately they prepped the seatpost and handlebars too. I wasn't planning on painting those.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by raudi View Post
    Can't blame him though as he builds custom choppers and hotrods for a living.
    It was painted at chopper shop but no "flames"?

    oldschoolmid2.jpg

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by raudi View Post
    No. Got it in 8 days after ordering. Looks like they sanded and prepped for me too. Unfortunately they prepped the seatpost and handlebars too. I wasn't planning on painting those.
    So they took a matt or gloss frame and sanded it and called it raw?

  12. #112
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    Has anyone had an issue getting the rear derralieur adjusted properly? I install this (Shimano 105 10sp) derralieur new on my old bike and took maybe 15 min to get it setup perfectly. On this frame I have spent 2 hrs trying everything I can think of and everything Google and YouTube advises with no resolve.

    Only thing I can think of is something messed up with the frame or the derralieur mount.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptsbike55 View Post
    So they took a matt or gloss frame and sanded it and called it raw?
    They probably sand the raw frame before applying the 3k or UD layer also. Didn't look like there was any other layer on mine. Just that it was prepped for paint.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buckit View Post
    Has anyone had an issue getting the rear derralieur adjusted properly? I install this (Shimano 105 10sp) derralieur new on my old bike and took maybe 15 min to get it setup perfectly. On this frame I have spent 2 hrs trying everything I can think of and everything Google and YouTube advises with no resolve.

    Only thing I can think of is something messed up with the frame or the derralieur mount.
    I had that problem with my frame. The first thing to do is to remove the hanger and make sure it does not have any resin blob left on it. The other thing I found was that the hanger was not factory tightened. I had to tighten it. Last, I borrowed a Park hanger tool an lined the hanger. It was surprisingly not straight. Once I did that, it has shifted great since then.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptsbike55 View Post
    I had that problem with my frame. The first thing to do is to remove the hanger and make sure it does not have any resin blob left on it. The other thing I found was that the hanger was not factory tightened. I had to tighten it. Last, I borrowed a Park hanger tool an lined the hanger. It was surprisingly not straight. Once I did that, it has shifted great since then.

    +1
    Well answered. Always check the derailleur hanger alignment on a new frame.

  16. #116
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    Thanks guys! I'll be working on this tonight.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL06 View Post
    +1
    Well answered. Always check the derailleur hanger alignment on a new frame.
    +1000

    I now automatically align the hanger with the Park Tool before I even think about attaching the RD or trying to set anything up. If the hanger isn't straight and true, you will only be able to adjust the RD by luck. And in my experience NONE of my china direct bikes had straight derailleur hangers when delivered, and only ONE out of a handful of name brand frames had straight hangers.

  18. #118
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    I'm have a problem with my headset. The bottom bearing won't fit into the headtube. The bearing measures 52mm which is correct, but the metal part that's supposed to hold the bearing is just shy of 52mm. It's less than 1/4mm too small.

    I took it to a bike shop and they said there was nothing they could do.

    Does anyone have advice? Should I just start sanding the socket? (it's metal) Would a reaming tool be of use in this situation?

    A refund is not an option as I already tried (long story)

    headtube.jpg

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammermc View Post
    I'm have a problem with my headset. The bottom bearing won't fit into the headtube. The bearing measures 52mm which is correct, but the metal part that's supposed to hold the bearing is just shy of 52mm. It's less than 1/4mm too small.

    I took it to a bike shop and they said there was nothing they could do.





    Does anyone have advice? Should I just start sanding the socket? (it's metal) Would a reaming tool be of use in this situation?

    A refund is not an option as I already tried (long story)

    headtube.jpg
    Is the top and bottom both this way?

  20. #120
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    starting to get there.

    [img]
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  21. #121
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    @raudi

    Nice! Is this frame supposed to be the R5 clone? What are your initial impressions?

  22. #122
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    @raudi details please! Very interested in this frame, where did you buy from etc.

    Thanks!

  23. #123
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    Bought the frame from Velobuild. It's the R-055 which is a R3/5 clone. Hong Fu and Deng Fu sell along with many more sell a similar frame. I had mine painted to look like the 2015 R5. I haven't ridden it yet as I'm waiting for a few more parts to complete the build. Once thing I would note though is the front fork has very little clearance. My 23mm tires barely fit, 25mm rub. I should have it completed before the weekend and report back once I get a few miles on it over the weekend.

  24. #124
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    Thanks man. I'm starting to think the R055 (zhongwei R043??), although it looks very similar, is actually different enough from the dengfu/hongfu FM011 to be considered a completely different frame. It's almost a mix of FM011 and FM066.

    Love to hear your ride report.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammermc View Post
    I'm have a problem with my headset. The bottom bearing won't fit into the headtube. The bearing measures 52mm which is correct, but the metal part that's supposed to hold the bearing is just shy of 52mm. It's less than 1/4mm too small.

    I took it to a bike shop and they said there was nothing they could do.

    Does anyone have advice? Should I just start sanding the socket? (it's metal) Would a reaming tool be of use in this situation?

    A refund is not an option as I already tried (long story)

    headtube.jpg

    I solved the headset problem. After trying to press and pull out the bearing multiple times I set the frame aside for a few days out of frustration. I tried again today and the bearings slid in under finger pressure. Will need a hammer to remove it but it's in finally.

    30 mins of installation later...now my rear brake won't into the brake bridge hole! Guessing it's excess paint and sandpaper will take care of it. I hope it's not going to be as tedious as removing the excess paint from the bottom bracket. (1.5hrs!)

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