The Lynskey Peloton - Page 4
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  1. #76
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    Nice bike. And cool thread.

    You will love the 1x11.

    One recommendation: when you install the new groupset, please shorten the rear derailleur cable housing - on your current setup it is way too long.

  2. #77
    What the what???
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    The Lynskey Peloton

    After a bit of back and forth, the goodies from ROTOR arrived.



    BSA30 bottom bracket
    ROTOR 30mm Road axle
    Aldhu crank arms
    1X Q ring (44t)

    The install was straight-forward. The chainring fits in notches directly on the axle (no spider) so you can fine tune the position of the oval in relation to the crank arm. Tightening the crank arm then compresses the ring into place. There is a binder nut on the NDS crank arm that sets the pre-load for the bearing and eliminates any play. Itís pretty slick, actually.



    Bars and levers are on. I took a wire wheel to the visible center of the bars to expose the aluminum. The white portion will eventually be covered by fizik orange tape.

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    Last edited by Opus51569; 12-18-2018 at 09:08 AM.
    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

  3. #78
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    The Lynskey Peloton

    All derailleured, cabled, taped and ready for a test ride once the snow stops flying So, itís gratuitous garage pics in the meantime.



    On the wishlist are some orange anodized skewers, a Ritchey post and stem. But itís ready to go as-is and Iím looking forward to trying out the oval chainring.

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    Last edited by Opus51569; 03-22-2019 at 11:54 AM.
    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

  4. #79
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    The Lynskey Peloton

    Finally able to get out on the bike for a bit in itís current incarnation:



    Found some anodized orange skewers and went back to the black B17 saddle now that most of the components are black.

    So whatís the ROTOR setup like? For anyone whoís never ridden with an oval chainring, itís interesting. The variation in the oval ring makes me more aware of my cadence. I can feel the rhythm of each revolution as I pedal as opposed to a round chainring which feels more like perpetual motion. I see the appeal for riders who want to set tempo. Weíll see what happens long term.



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    Last edited by Opus51569; 03-24-2019 at 05:27 AM.
    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

  5. #80
    What the what???
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    The Lynskey Peloton

    Now that I have a few hundred more miles into the upgrades...

    I had a ticking sound recently that got progressively worse. It happened generally out of the saddle when putting more stress on the cranks from a standing stop. Visual inspections didn't show any usual suspects. I tried removing any extraneous bits (saddle bag, bottles, etc.) to make sure they weren't the problem. I checked the skewer tightness. You know the drill.

    With no luck from the easy stuff, I decided it was time to run it down. I removed and re-greased the pedals, pulled the cranks and re-greased there as well. Then I encountered an issue. With the ROTOR BSA30 bottom bracket I received a special socket for installing it. The socket, however, is made of plastic. It worked okay for installing the bottom bracket and I was able to get the 40nm necessary. When I tried to use the socket to remove the bottom bracket so that I could re-grease it, the socket slipped. When it did it instantly stripped some of the plastic teeth in the socket. This made it useless. Long story short, the bottom bracket is staying where it is until I get a metal socket to be able to take it off.

    The good news is that I think the issue with the click was in the cranks. The NDS crank uses a threaded collar that you turn to take out the play in the bottom bracket. Once you get the correct tension, there is a bolt that you tighten to lock the collar in place on the thread and the tension is set. The collar needed to be tightened. The spec calls for 1nm but I think I erred on the side of caution when I initially installed and didn't get it quite tight enough. So, it got re-greased and tightened and, in the 50 miles I've put on it since then, no more clicking.

    Another thing I've noticed is the amount of noise I'm getting from the oval 1X Q-Ring. I'm guessing this is partly due to mixing a ROTOR crank and ring with an SRAM chain, derailleur and cassette. In the middle of the cassette, it's relatively quiet as the chain line is straight. But it gets noticeably louder on the high and low end and it comes from the chainring. I don't know if this is something that will "break in" over time and maybe get better, or if it's just going to be the sound the drivetrain makes. By comparison, the Apex 1X on my other bike is quiet as a mouse.

    UPDATE: I came across a diagram that showed the vertical distance between the upper pulley and the biggest cog should be 12-14mm. I had thought setting the B screw meant making sure the chain didnít scrape against the cogs as you shifted to the next largest cog. Long story short, I tried the 12-14mm setting and the drivetrain is much quieter at both ends of the cassette. Shifting doesnít seem to be affected.
    Last edited by Opus51569; 05-10-2019 at 03:15 PM.
    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

  6. #81
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    Still going strong.



    Finally wore down the Panaracer Paselas. 1500 miles, down to the threads, but not a single flat. Decided to replace them with some oldies, but goodies, the 28mm Conti Gatorskins.


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    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

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