BMC Roadmachine! - Page 3
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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by cannondaleCAD3 View Post
    Migen21, this is very sad story....hope you get it replaced under warranty.did you try montage paste? This is exactly why i am interested in the seatpost / seatpost clamp issue. I thought there were done any changes to the seatpost clamp as I saw the pictures of the red frame. Anyone else having this problem?
    Well, the guys at the shop told me they have had a few people come back and complain about a slipping seatpost (although certainly not all of them). They gave me the impression that they cleaned it, re-applied carbon paste and re-installed using an allen key and that no one has come back.

    Also, I'm 6' 5"/195cm and 225lbs/100kg. Slipping seatposts isn't some new thing for me.

    I'm not too worried about it. The company and the shop have a good reputation for warranty stuff. If this ends up being a problem (it's still TBD as far as I'm concerned), I won't have any trouble getting it replaced.

    If I were having to deal with online ordering, and shipping for return/rebuild, I'd probably be a lot more frustrated, but this shop is a few miles from my house, and directly along my normal riding routes.
    Last edited by Migen21; 01-30-2017 at 07:24 AM.

  2. #52
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    @migrn21...i am not considering online orders,but the di2 ultegra model will definitley kill my bank account. Therefore there will be no funds left if it turns out that the bike does not work for me. Lets say: i have 1 shot.;-) and the bike should work for some years (5plus). This is why i am asking for “real world experiences“ of real users. For me it would be the only bike for the next years. A slipping seatpost would mean that I can not use it. And I can not justify this to my wife:-).... not in that price area....if you know what I mean.

  3. #53
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    You pay a price which is more likely to be paid for a car. Therefore i would expect a perfect engineering!

  4. #54
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    I'm not going to tell you that you shouldn't worry about it. Just the opposite. As you said, it's a lot of money, and your expectation that it works perfectly right out of the box is definitely not unreasonable.

    When I considered the RM-01, I did ponder the unusual seatpost and stem/steerer/riser design. My biggest concern going into it was that I was locked into BMC's proprietary hardware (seatpost, stem, riser, spacers). I was concerned if I needed a different stem length, or a different spacer setup, those items would be hard to get. I even talked with the regional rep, who was in the shop one day when I was there. He assured me that there would be availability of the stems in all varieties, and spacers would be coming in 1/2 cm and 1 cm increments. He showed me a few samples he had brought with him. That was enough for me. My fit on the 61cm out of the box with the included riser and stem was right where I wanted it to be. It's a slight bit lower and longer than my GF-01 was, which is just what I wanted. I don't anticipate needing to dial in the fit much, and the included hardware should be adequate for that.

    As I mentioned before, this is not my first experience with a slipping seatpost. In fact, every bike I've owned has had this problem to some degree. The exception being my Ti Volagi with a Ritchey carbon seatpost, which has never slipped. In every case, eventually, after the first few rides, the problem seems to resolve itself. My GF-01 seatpost (standard 27.2mm round post) slipped down slowly on my first few rides. Eventually it stopped doing it and has been fine for over 10k miles. Similar situation on my gravel bike (Norco Search). First ride it slipped a bit. I moved it back up, re-applied paste and re-torqued, and it's been fine since.

    On the Roadmachine seatpost, I didn't even notice the seat being lower until the very end of my first 2hr ride, just as I had gotten back to my starting point. My first thought was that I had forgotten to paste/torque it when I did the final assembly, but when we took the post out in the shop, it did have a healthy application of paste on it, and I'm usually pretty thorough when I do final assembly to make sure everything is torqued to spec. It's possible I neglected to do it. I had finished building back in early December and hadn't ridden it until last weekend.

    I'm not worried about a catastrophic failure at all. In fact, if I were a betting man, I'd wager that the seatpost is going to be fine in the long run. However, I'm prepared to deal with the warranty thing if I have to.

    I'm in the middle of a 14 week indoor winter training block. Next Sunday will be the next chance I get to ride it outside (weather permitting). I'll update this thread as I get more miles on the bike and see if the slipping persists.

  5. #55
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    @Migen 21: thank you for your Information. I am very interested in your next "seatpost experience"... @MMSrepBike: this may be correct, but if a slightly overtightened bold is the only solution (...).. But your Explanation leads me to an other question: how does the seatpost clamp of the RM01 look like? is it the same as for TM01?
    If so, the only damage which could result from overtightening could be a damaged screw / windings of the clamp. For sure this is not nice, but will be by far cheaper than a damage to the Frame.

    Does anybody know how the clamp Looks like?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #56
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    I've not taken mine out to examine it closely. It is similar to that design.

    If I have some time later, I may pull it out and take a closer look.

  7. #57
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    I just ordered my RM01 with Di2 Ultegra... I am very excited to receive it. Delivery will be by mid of March. 25 years of mechanical shifting find an end with that bike. I do not know what is more exciting ... the roadmachine or the Di2 shifting.

    @Migen21:I asked my shop guys and they confirmed that the seatpost clamp Looks like te photo I posted above.

    @all:Thank you so far for any Feedback /help given.... ;-)

  8. #58
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    Congratulations! Its really a fantastic bike! You'll love the Di2 as well. And FWIW I have two rides since my last post and have not had any more problems with the seatpost slipping.

  9. #59
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    Does anybody know the weight of the RM01 with Di2 components in Framesize 56cm? Thank you guys! (I guess it will be around 7,8 kg) but I am not sure ...

  10. #60
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    My 61cm RM-01 has a Dura Ace 9000 crankset and Ultegra 6870 Di2 derailleurs, Enve SES 3.4 Disc wheels withConti GP4000 28mm tires and weighed just a tad over 17lbs (7.8kg I guess).

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by cannondaleCAD3 View Post
    Does anybody know the weight of the RM01 with Di2 components in Framesize 56cm? Thank you guys! (I guess it will be around 7,8 kg) but I am not sure ...
    Hello this is the weight of the RM01 U Di2 in frame size 61, without pedals IMG_8556.jpg

  12. #62
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    Thank you very much for your Feedback, so my 56cm Model will weight around 7,6 kg without pedals. I will Change the saddle for a "1993 Flite Evolution carbon"as this fits me best. This will shave off 100 grams... Do you have any other suggestions to bring down the weight a Little. Maybe I will Change the Ultegra crankset for a Dura Ace later on. Depending on if I will get a good deal... But this should work as Dura Ace 9000 is on sale now... did you do any other changes?

  13. #63
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    Are you planning on running the stock wheels? Probably not the ideal component to go weight weenie on, but depending on wheels and tires, you might save a few grams over the stock stuff.

    If I recall the built bike comes with pretty nice 3T ergonova carbon bars. If they are anything like the ones that came on my TeamMachine they are fantastic. Probably can't do much better there.

    You're stuck with the stock seatpost so really the drivetrain is all that is left. Going full on dura-ace will lighten the bike AND your wallet. Although you might find some bargains on the 9070 stuff since the new 9170 should be available soon (if it's not already).

  14. #64
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    Yes, I will run the stock wheels, which are claimed 1.450(?) gr., but I do not intend to spend big bucks on weight-weenie things. But there are only few possibilities for saving a Little weight. I guess I will start with myself and decrease the beer volume ;-). At the Moment I am thinking of changing the cranks to Dura Ace, because they are lighter, look better and would give me the possibility to go from 172,5 to 175mm. The stock crank length is 172,5. Which crank length do you ride?

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by cannondaleCAD3 View Post
    @Migen 21: thank you for your Information. I am very interested in your next "seatpost experience"... @MMSrepBike: this may be correct, but if a slightly overtightened bold is the only solution (...).. But your Explanation leads me to an other question: how does the seatpost clamp of the RM01 look like? is it the same as for TM01?
    If so, the only damage which could result from overtightening could be a damaged screw / windings of the clamp. For sure this is not nice, but will be by far cheaper than a damage to the Frame.

    Does anybody know how the clamp Looks like?
    This is the clamp from my RM01. I removed it because I plan to upgrade it with Ti screw in order to shave few grams

    I think I may have a solution for seatclamp issue. I experienced the same problem on my BMC timemachine TMR01 which has very similar clamping mechanism. I tried carbon paste, paper, sandpaper etc. It helped little bit but did not solve the problem completly. Then after one ride I incidentally tried to tighten the screw (WITHOUT LOOSENING!!!) using torque wrench set at recommendet torque and surprisingly it was far from being tightened to recommended torque despite the fact that before the ride I tightened it precisely to that torque! So I did an experiment I used multitool to carefully tighten the clamp during the ride each 5 or 10km. I was able to tighten it maybe 4-5 times but then it did not get loose anymore. Since that time I did 8000 km without touching it and seatpost is still at the correct height. I experienced the problem also on my new RM01. I did the same tightening procedure and voila... it works. So you can try this without risking seatpost/frame damage due to overtightening.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Rasto; 02-13-2017 at 08:27 AM.

  16. #66
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    Overtightening of seatclamp may lead to seatpost damage! At least on BMC TMR01. This is what happened to the seatpost when previous owner of my BMC TMR01 overtightened the clamp...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 7.jpg (49.8 KB, 625 views)
    • File Type: jpg 8.jpg (59.0 KB, 618 views)

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by cannondaleCAD3 View Post
    Thank you very much for your Feedback, so my 56cm Model will weight around 7,6 kg without pedals. I will Change the saddle for a "1993 Flite Evolution carbon"as this fits me best. This will shave off 100 grams... Do you have any other suggestions to bring down the weight a Little. Maybe I will Change the Ultegra crankset for a Dura Ace later on. Depending on if I will get a good deal... But this should work as Dura Ace 9000 is on sale now... did you do any other changes?
    -depending on type of your wheels and tyres you can shave off as much as 200-250g just by going tubeless...
    -you can throw quick release lever from thru axle (30g) (assuming you carry multitool)
    -if you are not too heavy or ride in high mountains you can save up to 90g by using light 140mm rotors (https://r2-bike.com/HOPE-Brake-Disc-...X2-Race-140-mm)
    -titanium screws (or even aluminium for top cap, chain holder) wil save something
    - of course dura-ace... Its not cheap but instead of crankset I would start with shifters. Stock rs685 are really heavy. New DA di2 r9170 is expensive but just shifters will save more than 300g!


    This is my stock RM01 ultegra.
    Now it's 8,8 kg with pedals. I want to get to 7 - 7,1. It won't be cheap for sure but I will change everything . I will use Dura-Ace di2 9070 from my previous bike, r9170 shifters and calipers, new Roval clx 50 wheels (very light, aero and tubeless), 140mm light rotors, new Pro Compact bars, Look Keo carbon-ti pedals. I will throw headset spacers, use low stack BMC ICS spacer, Ti and Al screws where possible, remove QR lever from axle, S-works power seat...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #68
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    The guys at the shop have a little trick for the RM01 seatpost slipping. They torque it to 3nm, then grab the seat and twistt it hard back and forth. If you hear a small pop, re-torque. Repeat until you can't hear the pop.

    Apparently when you torque the clamp it can get twisted a little bit. Twisting the seat back and forth should allow the wedge to seat squarely.

    They also ordered me a 30mm offset seatpost, as my seat was all the way back on the rails.



    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Migen21; 02-14-2017 at 04:01 PM.

  19. #69
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    Hello Rasto! thank you for this Information. I think I will pick up the STI-shifters for a Change in the future... I did not think of that! If it saves 300 gr. it will be worth the Change. Will those work with the existing (old) Ultegra Di2 stuff?

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pons View Post
    Hi
    I just saw this plastic cover on a RM01 in a shop (see pic), I suppose the old little piece (round) was easy to lose. I saw it on a "old" color scheme model.
    Second, I must say that the seatpost is a bit slippy, you have to close it a bit more than recommended, then it is OK.

    Attachment 317795
    I
    I was in my shop this weekend talking about the issue with the slipping seatpost - while I was there they put the new cap on it. The nice thing about this one is it's captured by the seatpost, so it's a lot harder to lose it.

    They said they talked to the rep about the slipping seatpost issue. Besides the "Torque -> Twist -> Re-Torque -> Repeat as needed" thing, he also suggested to put some grease on the mating surfaces of the wedges to prevent them from potentially binding.
    Last edited by Migen21; 02-14-2017 at 05:56 PM.

  21. #71
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    photo

    This sounds interesting... in my opinion the wedges of the clamp are designed wrong. If you take those and increase the contact area of both wedges by lowering the angle of both wedges, then it should be: 1. easier to torque the wedges (less power required) and there is more contact between the wedges... furthermore the wedges / the whole clamp has more contact area in the seat tube... I can not add a sketch here.. ... I may be wrong, as I assume BMCs Engineering should be very good,but when looking at the clamp mechanism my first thought was that it could have been done in a better way...
    Last edited by cannondaleCAD3; 02-15-2017 at 11:05 AM. Reason: mistake

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by cannondaleCAD3 View Post
    Hello Rasto! thank you for this Information. I think I will pick up the STI-shifters for a Change in the future... I did not think of that! If it saves 300 gr. it will be worth the Change. Will those work with the existing (old) Ultegra Di2 stuff?
    This is a good question. According to this E-tube compatibility chart: 2016-2017 SHIMANO Product Information Web r9170 shifters should work with 6870/9070 front and rear derailleurs (or even 10 speed group if I understand the chart correctly). But for full compatibility (including synchro shift) you would need new bluetooth battery BT-DN110 and some firmware update.

  23. #73
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    Hi,

    I'm thinking on geting a Roadmachine 02 Ultegra.
    I've got a sizing doubt, because I'm 1,75 meters and an inseam of 79 cm.
    Should I get a 51 or a 54 frame?

    I currently own a Specialized Roubaix SL2, size 54, with na 90 cm stem.

    Thanks,

    Paulo

  24. #74
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    I would go and check sizes in your shop. I RODE 58 cm frames for over 20 years and was surprised that I need to buy a 56 cm RM. (87cm/182cm). 58 would be too large for me.

  25. #75
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    Does anyone know the link to the weight limit of the BMC RoadMachine? This thread plus the "Quiver Killer" thread makes me seriously think of putting this bike on the short list. I know Im overweight right now but this bikes aesthetics alone makes me want to get out there and ride!!! Now, its time for me to look at a good pair of wheels to accompany this bike and make this whole thing work!

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