Basic Wheelbuilding Question
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  1. #1
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    Basic Wheelbuilding Question

    I'm going to re-build my 32H 3X Ultegra hubs on Velocity rims. I'm using 14Ga DT straight spokes since I know those and haven't had any problems with them. I've used Aeroheads before and like them. I was considering the OCR rear rim, but?

    Which side (drive vs. non-drive) gets the flat surface and which gets the sloped?

    Also, does this help with dish? What other than aestetics are the advantages? Should I consider Fusions or Deep-V?

    Cost really isn't a factor since they're priced similar to centered rims.

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
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    Helps with dish

    The rim should slope towards the drive side I believe, so the off-center spoke bed is closer to the non-drive side. This way you get some more bracing angle on the drive-side spokes. This will make the wheel stronger to a degree. Not really an aesthetic issue, but one of spoke angle and overall wheel strength.

    If I was building a wheel and these (off-center drilling) were readily available in the style of rim I was using, I'd use them as there are some advantages. Having said that, I wouldn't go out of my way to find one as the advantages are somewhat marginal - plenty of good strong wheels out there are built on 'on-center' rims.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitt83
    I was considering the OCR rear rim, but?

    Which side (drive vs. non-drive) gets the flat surface and which gets the sloped?

    Also, does this help with dish? What other than aestetics are the advantages?
    The idea behind OCR rims to minimize dish on drive side and equalize tension btw left and right side. The spoke holes need to be offset toward non-drive side, so the slopped side is the drive (right) and flat is non-drive (left).

    Personally I prefer to lace rear half radial heads out to reduce dish and avoid breaking non-drive leading spokes at J-bent. With OCR rim it is less critical, but won't hurt. Also use DB spokes they take higher tension and more durable good luck.
    Always Look At the Bright Side of Life Monty Python, Life of Brian

  4. #4
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    So, spoke lengths become more equal?

    Quote Originally Posted by CycloPathic
    The idea behind OCR rims to minimize dish on drive side and equalize tension btw left and right side. The spoke holes need to be offset toward non-drive side, so the slopped side is the drive (right) and flat is non-drive (left).

    Personally I prefer to lace rear half radial heads out to reduce dish and avoid breaking non-drive leading spokes at J-bent. With OCR rim it is less critical, but won't hurt. Also use DB spokes they take higher tension and more durable good luck.
    Conventional on center rim has 290 drive and 293 non dirve. This, with the slope on the drive side, more equalizes the distance making the spoke lengths more equal. Looks like 294 drive and 295 non-drive. The spoke holes move closer to the non-drive making those more equal length WRT non-drive spokes.

    Have I got it right?

    BTW: Reusing hubs and want to stick with 3-cross since wear in the hub follows that pattern. Will try radial drive, 2X non-drive next build with new hubs.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by pitt83
    Conventional on center rim has 290 drive and 293 non dirve. This, with the slope on the drive side, more equalizes the distance making the spoke lengths more equal. Looks like 294 drive and 295 non-drive. The spoke holes move closer to the non-drive making those more equal length WRT non-drive spokes.

    Have I got it right?
    you got the equalizes part right, however the length doesn't sound correct, it should be more like 292 non-drive and 291 drive, which calculator are you using?

    Quote Originally Posted by pitt83
    BTW: Reusing hubs and want to stick with 3-cross since wear in the hub follows that pattern. Will try radial drive, 2X non-drive next build with new hubs.
    You mean 2x drive and half radial non-drive, correct? I wouldn't reccomend doing drive side radial, though some pre-build wheels like Spinergy and Shimano laced that way. They use hub shell to transfer torque to non-drive side.

    BTW the imprints from spokes on non-drive side shouldn't bother you, when you lace non-drive side radial heads out, spokes do not leave any impression and won't interfere with old ones. There's a school of thought which insists on changing or moving lacing when re-lace so the old imprints are not used. Good luck on your bild, do not mess the key spoke
    Always Look At the Bright Side of Life Monty Python, Life of Brian

  6. #6
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    Rinards from the net

    [QUOTE=CycloPathic]you got the equalizes part right, however the length doesn't sound correct, it should be more like 292 non-drive and 291 drive, which calculator are you using?

    Right, it comes up 292 / 291. I had an error message and was guessing. If you don't have this calculator, it's great. My LBS uses it.

    I'll order the parts and build soon. I took the LOOK out yesterday and realized the hop in the wheel has to go. Wheels are 3 seasons used now; they owe me nothing. Man, it's so much quicker than the winter CX bike! I had a permanent smile the rest of the afternoon.

  7. #7

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    [QUOTE=pitt83]
    Quote Originally Posted by CycloPathic
    you got the equalizes part right, however the length doesn't sound correct, it should be more like 292 non-drive and 291 drive, which calculator are you using?

    Right, it comes up 292 / 291. I had an error message and was guessing. If you don't have this calculator, it's great. My LBS uses it.

    I'll order the parts and build soon. I took the LOOK out yesterday and realized the hop in the wheel has to go. Wheels are 3 seasons used now; they owe me nothing. Man, it's so much quicker than the winter CX bike! I had a permanent smile the rest of the afternoon.
    Rinard has alot of info, but I don't like his calculator for 2 reasons. First, some of the data are wrong, you still need to doublecheck, second his calculator doesn't take into consideration spoke stretch. When use DB spokes on drive side stretch is ~1mm, 1.5mm with Revos or XLs. The most accurate online calculator is Danny's, but you'll have to measure or copy data from Rinard's good luck

    http://www.appliedthought.com/danny/...alculator.html
    Always Look At the Bright Side of Life Monty Python, Life of Brian

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