Cable End Techniques
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  1. #1
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    Cable End Techniques

    Bonjourno

    Do you solder? Glue? Tape? Crimp?

    TX
    duh tramp

  2. #2
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    crimp...

    found some gold end caps that exactly match the frame color.

    sweet.
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  3. #3
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    Whatever you do, just don't leave too much extra hanging to ruin the look. 4cm max.

  4. #4
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    Soldering takes too long and pretty much every cable I use is stainless so that's a no. Tape is incredibly cheesy, so no. Glue? No. I use small crimps and like nova posted I cut the cable tail short.



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  5. #5
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    I've been crazy gluing which works ok. Soldering is probably the best but I don't have an iron or torch and like them short and getting the heat to close to the DR's leaves me not feeling good. The next set I do I think I'm going to wrap with electrical tape so it doesn't unravel then glue it then take the tape off....

  6. #6
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    Heat shrink tubing seems like it should work-would keep you from "losing" the cable end length whenever you install new housing but keep the old cable.

  7. #7
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    The good thing about soldering is you can reinsert the cable into the housing without it fraying.


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  8. #8
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    Back when I used to care, super glue (let dry) then a light crimp. The glue makes it easier if you want to pull and re-thread the cable later, since it usually holds the strands together pretty well after taking the crimp cap off.

    Since I realized I almost NEVER pull and re-use cables, I just crimp now.
    .
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxtox View Post
    crimp...

    found some gold end caps that exactly match the frame color.

    sweet.
    This, always. Should be part of the rules at this point.

  10. #10
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    Used to solder all the time; it has the cleanest look. Unfortunately, as CX says, cables these days are pretty much all stainless so that doesn't work anymore. I have an assortment of colored end caps that match my various bikes.
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  11. #11
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    Ya, obsessing no doubt...you know, the bike, my “perfect” world thing. They’re just such an elegant machine.

    I found the “Heat Shrink Buddy” on eBay. Imagine, someone that’s a heat shrink expert. Double wall adhesive heat shrink. Who’d of thought?

    The plan is when I cable the project Paul’s Klampers and Ultegra R8000 cables I’m going to apply a tube then cut. I just want to avoid that initial unravel that I get every time and never seems to go back 100%. The crimp on’s seem to fall off sooner or later on a ride. We’ll see...

  12. #12
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    Wow, didn't know anybody did anything other than crimps. I learn something new every day!
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    Used to solder all the time; it has the cleanest look. Unfortunately, as CX says, cables these days are pretty much all stainless so that doesn't work anymore. I have an assortment of colored end caps that match my various bikes.
    If you use acid flux, the solder will wet to the stainless cable.

  14. #14
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle tramp View Post
    Ya, obsessing no doubt...you know, the bike, my “perfect” world thing. They’re just such an elegant machine.

    I found the “Heat Shrink Buddy” on eBay. Imagine, someone that’s a heat shrink expert. Double wall adhesive heat shrink. Who’d of thought?

    The plan is when I cable the project Paul’s Klampers and Ultegra R8000 cables I’m going to apply a tube then cut. I just want to avoid that initial unravel that I get every time and never seems to go back 100%. The crimp on’s seem to fall off sooner or later on a ride. We’ll see...
    I rarely have cables unravel, generally that's caused by using a dull cutting tool. I don't even use cable cutters, instead I use Knipex dikes (diagonal cutters), they work so well cable cutters aren't needed. I only use those on shift housing.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I rarely have cables unravel, generally that's caused by using a dull cutting tool. I don't even use cable cutters, instead I use Knipex dikes (diagonal cutters), they work so well cable cutters aren't needed. I only use those on shift housing.
    I can't say I,ve ever had a problem with unravelling using cable cutters as long as I crimp the cable immediately. Dikes are the worst for that.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  16. #16
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    Solder, then crimp. I've had both fail and I hate unraveling cables.

  17. #17
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    Jagwire non-crimps for the win. Just push them on. Pull them off and re-use them. I've had the same set for years.



    There's some other brands too that are reusable.
    https://www.amazon.com/Flying-Wheels...dp/B072FNN338/
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Jagwire non-crimps for the win. Just push them on. Pull them off and re-use them. I've had the same set for years.



    There's some other brands too that are reusable.
    https://www.amazon.com/Flying-Wheels...dp/B072FNN338/
    Those look heavy and non-aero 🙂

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    If you use acid flux, the solder will wet to the stainless cable.
    +1. I've seen people who do this who never consider using flux. That's the difference between actually TINNING the ends or just making a huge mess with only solder.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  20. #20
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    +1. I've seen people who do this who never consider using flux. That's the difference between actually TINNING the ends or just making a huge mess with only solder.
    Yup. I've soldered SS cables with Flux. No problem.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Soldering takes too long and pretty much every cable I use is stainless so that's a no.
    Sorry bud, but you are incorrect, stainless is easily soldered with the right flux and silver solder. For reference, stainless lugged frames are silver brazed or soldered together. HOWEVER.... a crimp is still a good idea. An approximately 1.5 mm cable cut clean and soldered can leave a puncture wound the depth of the cable end. Guess how I know.

    Some cables are either silicone or Teflon treated. THAT makes them nearly impossible to solder.
    Of course I'm sure...that doesn't mean I'm right.....

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  22. #22
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    Superglue and black crimps for me. I would like to solder but seems to be a tad labour intensive.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touch0Gray View Post
    Sorry bud, but you are incorrect, stainless is easily soldered with the right flux and silver solder. For reference, stainless lugged frames are silver brazed or soldered together. HOWEVER.... a crimp is still a good idea. An approximately 1.5 mm cable cut clean and soldered can leave a puncture wound the depth of the cable end. Guess how I know.

    Some cables are either silicone or Teflon treated. THAT makes them nearly impossible to solder.
    Right you are.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touch0Gray View Post

    Some cables are either silicone or Teflon treated. THAT makes them nearly impossible to solder.
    A bit of sandpaper removed the black Teflon coating off the end of the cable for me, and I was able to solder it. Yes, agree on getting stuck by the soldered cable end.

    I tried Superglue once, but it didn't work.

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