Disc brake 101 question - Page 2
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  1. #26
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    Slight tangent, I have not been able to find any documentation or markings on TRP rotors for minimum thickness. Right now I have TR-25 centerlock rotors. Anybody know?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    works on all rotors with a saw tooth outside edge, but not all have that - Campagnolo has at least a couple current rotors that do not, a micrometer is a better choice for those to get away from the outside edge or you have to use a feeler gauge and caliper to see what if anything you can slide between the caliper edge and the rotor away from the edge.
    I don't worry about Campy disc brakes as I have never seen one much less had to work on one.
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  3. #28
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    Calipers and micrometers?

    Like CX, I just replace my pads when they look like they're wearing close to the return springs. I just glance at my rotors every so often to make sure they're not all gouged/grooved from running worn pads too long.

    Jeebus, we're not talking aerospace here.

  4. #29
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    Since every rotor/pad is nearly the same thickness when new I'd replace at 1.5/1.55mm.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by dir-t View Post
    Calipers and micrometers?...
    Jeebus, we're not talking aerospace here.
    Well, maybe you don't work in aerospace, but I do........
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by dir-t View Post
    Calipers and micrometers?

    Like CX, I just replace my pads when they look like they're wearing close to the return springs. I just glance at my rotors every so often to make sure they're not all gouged/grooved from running worn pads too long.

    Jeebus, we're not talking aerospace here.
    When new is 1.85mm and worn out is 1.55mm we're talking about a .3mm difference. Tell me another way to measure that accurately.
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  7. #32
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    Slightly off topic, what do you do to speed up the "break-in" of new disc brake pads? I know it take a bit of use to get the optimum friction from pads but does sanding them little bit help?

  8. #33
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    No, it takes heat and repeated applications of the brakes to deposit some pad material on the rotor. 'Bedding in'.
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Well, maybe you don't work in aerospace, but I do........
    That's great but I rarely bring my work home with me and I certainly don't take it out on the trails.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Tell me another way to measure that accurately.
    IMO, and what I must have misunderstood as your own, is that one can get a quick visual of pad wear and replace them before they start to foul up the rotors.

    Beyond that, when your brakes start to lose performance despite having good pads, you'll have a good indication that it's time for new rotors.

    In my experience, after 18 years of riding disc brakes, feel and intuition have always been an adequate substitute for accurate measurements.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dir-t View Post
    IMO, and what I must have misunderstood as your own, is that one can get a quick visual of pad wear and replace them before they start to foul up the rotors.

    Beyond that, when your brakes start to lose performance despite having good pads, you'll have a good indication that it's time for new rotors.

    In my experience, after 18 years of riding disc brakes, feel and intuition have always been an adequate substitute for accurate measurements.
    I think for guys like us working on our own bikes visual is good, especially for pads. When rotors get a lip worn on them, replace. For customers I need to provide numbers.
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Well, maybe you don't work in aerospace, but I do........
    Been there done that. Also have a bit of machining experience. Donít think we need to carry it down to .0001Ē, A caliper is plenty accurate for a bicycle brake rotor.

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