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Thread: FrankinBike!

  1. #1
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    FrankinBike!

    I been thinking of building a new bike, a new style.

    If one was to take a MBike and put road handlebars & shifters on it.

    Would one be better to try and use a road F/RD or are there Mbike F/RD that are compatible with road shifters (Scram, Shimano, or ?)?

    I guess if there are rim brakes involved, that may be an issue too?

    I'm not really up on the whole compatiblity thing. Going to be running smooth tires for smooth gravel/trails. I NEED a front suspension for sure.
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  2. #2
    Adorable Furry Hombre
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    Not really new. People do it quite a bit. Frequently called monstercross.

    Whether to use MTB or road parts depends on your gearing. Roadie FDs bottom out at 30T minimum, whereas MTB FDs cap out at 40-44T maximum
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

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    Well I'm thinking of 29" wheels and speeds up to 25mph. If I have to use 27.5 or 26 wheels the gearing would probably be more road ratio's. I'm going to be on no-steep trails, I'll be looking for those that go downhill!

    I'm now thinking the brakes are going to be more of an issue. and I already have Kawa for motocross.
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    Those monstercross bikes don't have forks, & I may go FS!

    So it looks like the brakes are the issue, I'll just use road RD that will work with the shifters.
    If I use Shimano Road shifters is the pull about the same as a Shimano disk mech?
    Ditto question for SCRAM Road shifters & disk mech?

    I need some help! HELP!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    Those monstercross bikes don't have forks, & I may go FS!

    So it looks like the brakes are the issue, I'll just use road RD that will work with the shifters.
    If I use Shimano Road shifters is the pull about the same as a Shimano disk mech?
    Ditto question for SCRAM Road shifters & disk mech?

    I need some help! HELP!
    Neither SRAM nor Shimano make mech disk brakes. You'll need to look to 3rd party like say TRP...which, IIRC should be OOTB compatible with either. Honestly, mech disk performance is underwhelming compared to hydraulic (modulation as well as feel). But depends on your budget.

    If you need/want a squishy fork, you'll need to customize an MTB. Basically all drop-bar bikes are based on 400mm roadie-std front forks and 68mm BBs....going to squishy fork means MTB std 500mm class MTB fork almost always means 73mm BB and cranks....which gets to be a compatibility fun thing.

    The notable exception I can think of to the paired front-fork/BB standard pairing is the GMX Curve....which OFC doesn't help you much as it comes with a rigid front-end.

    https://www.curvecycling.com.au/prod...-monster-cross
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    I'm thinking getting a MBike, then change the bars and shifters. The F&RD will be changed out to match the shifters with road type.

    One of my MBike now is a Shimano mech disk, but it is from 07 or 01 or something, probably 01. I didn't know they totally stopped making them.... but, I could go with TRP, IIRC, or OOTB as long as it works. I don't plan on stopping much, just when I get home.
    BTW, what does TRP, IIRC, & OOTB stand for? ha!
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    I'm thinking getting a MBike, then change the bars and shifters. The F&RD will be changed out to match the shifters with road type.

    One of my MBike now is a Shimano mech disk, but it is from 07 or 01 or something, probably 01. I didn't know they totally stopped making them.... but, I could go with TRP, IIRC, or OOTB as long as it works. I don't plan on stopping much, just when I get home.
    BTW, what does TRP, IIRC, & OOTB stand for? ha!
    The catch with using MTB frames with MTB BBs is that it may limit your crankset compatibility due to frame clearance as well as chainline. Although if you're using 29x2" class tires, being capped at 44T and using MTB cranks and wheel-spacing and MTB cassette bodies isn't that big a thing simply due to gear-inches.Although if your trails are hard packed enough for slicks to be fine as your OP says...I'm curious about the need for a squishy-fork. Only time I ever want it is washboard, which isn't that common but is avoidable out here. If you want it, that is your thing--but it causes a bunch of headaches between compatibility and cost.
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    I am going to ride smooth gravel roads and trails at 15-20 mph, and yes there will be bumps, and yes I need a F Fork due to arthritis in hands.

    I was thinking of just getting a Mbike and replacing the bars/shifters/F & RD with road type, leaving everything else the same. The BB would just be whatever comes on the bike.

    Now if I get a used MBike with mech disks, is there any mech disks that have the same or similar pull ratios as a Scram or Shimano road shifters?

    If I can verify that, then I am very close to proceeding, but the MBikers & RBikers don't hang much together so I am having a hard time getting help on this issue.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    I am going to ride smooth gravel roads and trails at 15-20 mph, and yes there will be bumps, and yes I need a F Fork due to arthritis in hands.

    I was thinking of just getting a Mbike and replacing the bars/shifters/F & RD with road type, leaving everything else the same. The BB would just be whatever comes on the bike.

    Now if I get a used MBike with mech disks, is there any mech disks that have the same or similar pull ratios as a Scram or Shimano road shifters?

    If I can verify that, then I am very close to proceeding, but the MBikers & RBikers don't hang much together so I am having a hard time getting help on this issue.
    Probably the least-bad of the mech brakes are TRP HY-RD calipers...they have plug and play with Shimano/SRAM (I think TRP Spyres do too):

    https://www.trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/

    You can get hydro-disc brifter 105/Ultegra/DA, which is what I'd sooner do if your budget allows it. Buying levers new in box, you get brakes anyway; and the hydro levers aren't that much more expensive NIB.
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  10. #10
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    If you want cable brakes use TRP Spyres. They make a set just for road levers and they work great. With good setup and cables they are nearly indistinguishable from hydro. You could also use Shimano hydro brakes and levers.

    Gearing is your call, too personal for me to say, but using a MTB double ring crank and Shimano MTB derailleurs will simplify things. You can replace the big ring with up to 48t. Wolftooth makes a cable pull adapter so your Shimano road shifter will operate the rear derailleur.

    The easiest path is to buy a hardtail or FS cross country bike that comes with a Shimano 2x11 drivetrain and Shimano brakes. Swap the tires, bars, maybe the stem, and the levers to Shimano hydro road. They'll work with the MTB hydro brake calipers the bike came with. Add a Woldtooth Tanpan to the rear derailleur and go for a ride. After a shake down ride decide if you want the front end lower and the angles steeper. You can drop the fork from the 100mm it likely came with to 80mm with an air shaft swap. You should also now know what gearing you want so swap away.

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    This is what I needed to know, thanks for your help. I am starting to look at used bikes, change it over, if I like it then we'll think about something nicer.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    I been thinking of building a new bike, a new style.

    If one was to take a MBike and put road handlebars & shifters on it.

    Would one be better to try and use a road F/RD or are there Mbike F/RD that are compatible with road shifters (Scram, Shimano, or ?)?

    I guess if there are rim brakes involved, that may be an issue too?

    I'm not really up on the whole compatiblity thing. Going to be running smooth tires for smooth gravel/trails. I NEED a front suspension for sure.
    Check out this thread for ideas.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=355649

    I built up a Van Dessel WTF to satisfy my urge for one. Currently running Sram Apex brifters & front derailleur and Sram mtn X9 rear derailleur. FSA SL-K 50/34 cranks & Praxis Works 11-40 cassette. Brakes are Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes. Current tires are 32mm Gravel Kings.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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    OK, we have been looking at the situation...... Either a new bike or change a 26" MBike I have....... Rather do that for a test..... so my final question....

    Is the pull ratio of a shimano shifter 10spd the same as a 9 spd?

    I looked high and low for one of my old 9 spd shifters, but I must have pitched them or put them on a bike I gave away.
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  14. #14
    coaster
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    OK, we have been looking at the situation...... Either a new bike or change a 26" MBike I have....... Rather do that for a test..... so my final question....

    Is the pull ratio of a shimano shifter 10spd the same as a 9 spd?

    I looked high and low for one of my old 9 spd shifters, but I must have pitched them or put them on a bike I gave away.
    Road shifters? Yes. And they both use the same ratio as mountain 8 & 9 speed. Mountain 10spd is unique.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    Road shifters? Yes. And they both use the same ratio as mountain 8 & 9 speed. Mountain 10spd is unique.
    I went with SRAM on my build since I can mix roadie & mtb 10 spd components.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubajunkee View Post
    I went with SRAM on my build since I can mix roadie & mtb 10 spd components.

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    With Shimano 10spd and 11spd road & MTB can be mixed using the Wolftooth Tanpan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    With Shimano 10spd and 11spd road & MTB can be mixed using the Wolftooth Tanpan.
    Ahhh, good to know... But with SRAM no converter is needed.

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    I just noticed this thread. Have you considered a bike like the Cannondale Slate? Sounds like a gravel bike would be your best bet. the conversion is a lot of work and not the easiest to dial in if all the parts aren't set up correctly. Then if you want more traction for trails, you just swap the tires for knobbies. It won't be a 29er, but do you really need that diameter tire?

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    That looks interesting, so that would be an option for a new bike. It has only a 1X, which would put it lower down the ranking, we have hills around these parts.
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