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  1. #1
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    Going to be installing a new Ultegra Mechanical FD

    And my question is about setting the limit screws. Specifically the low limit.

    Most of the videos I can find show the FD already in place, but once you set the height of the FD, should you set the lower limit screw before attaching the cable?

    So I'm guessing my steps are:

    1: install and position the FD
    2: set the lower limit
    3. attach cable (turning out the barrel adjuster)
    4. set high limit

    Any advice is appreciated!

    Dave

  2. #2
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    I recently replaced my old Dura Ace 7800 group with the newest Ultegra R8000 group, wow what a difference! The new design front derailleur is quite different and I followed the procedure described in this Shimano dealer's manual:

    Manuals & Technical Documents - Front Derailleur

    On both the front and rear derailleurs I visually aligned them and set their limit screws prior to attaching the cables.

    All of these manuals are found here:
    Manuals & Technical Documents - R8000

    Hope this helps..
    Last edited by SHIF; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:57 AM.

  3. #3
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    That will get you there. One step you'll need to add, shift the chain to the largest cog on the back before setting low limit screw.

    Now, the long arm Shimano derailleurs are the funkiest to properly set up.

  4. #4
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    I just installed an R8020 groupset. It's worth reading the manual closely, since the process for both derailleurs is different.

    For the FD, start with the chain OFF, and the cable disconnected:

    1. Install the FD and tighten the clamp with the cage not quite parallel to front chainrings (tail slightly inboard).

    2. Tighten the support bolt until you bring the tail back out, making the outside of cage parallel with chainrings.

    3. Adjust the LOW adjustment bolt until the outside of the cage is even with the outside of the big chainring. As manual states: "Adjust the low adjustment bolt to align the flat portion of the chain guide outer plate with the surface of the largest chainring."

    Key note: Step 2 is making the cage parallel; step 3 is bringing it outboard enough to be lined up with the big ring.

    4. Only then do you then connect the cable and adjust the cable tension according to the instructions there (put it in the top trim position and make the lines line up).

    5. THEN you put the chain on.

    6. Then you do the high adjustment (big ring, biggest cog).

    7. And finally, you THEN do the low adjustment (small ring, biggest cog).

    So you will adjust the LOW adjustment screw at step 3 and step 7.

    If you do it by the book, you'll get all 22 gears and perfect shifting. If you try to do it the way most FDs have worked in the past, it will mostly work, but not perfectly.

  5. #5
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    ^Exactly this^. Only thing I would add is to grab the cable (before attaching to derailleur) and pull on it hard while actuating the shifting up and down a few times. This will seat the ferrules and housing and you'll be sure they're starting w/ the shifter in the correct position.
    Step 6 Adjust high limit w/ derailleur in the high trimmed position, chain on big cog, and you're looking at the INSIDE of the cage and the chain for clearance.
    I work for some bike racers
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fronesis View Post
    I just installed an R8020 groupset. It's worth reading the manual closely, since the process for both derailleurs is different.

    For the FD, start with the chain OFF, and the cable disconnected:

    1. Install the FD and tighten the clamp with the cage not quite parallel to front chainrings (tail slightly inboard).

    2. Tighten the support bolt until you bring the tail back out, making the outside of cage parallel with chainrings.


    3. Adjust the LOW adjustment bolt until the outside of the cage is even with the outside of the big chainring. As manual states: "Adjust the low adjustment bolt to align the flat portion of the chain guide outer plate with the surface of the largest chainring."

    Key note: Step 2 is making the cage parallel; step 3 is bringing it outboard enough to be lined up with the big ring.

    4. Only then do you then connect the cable and adjust the cable tension according to the instructions there (put it in the top trim position and make the lines line up).

    5. THEN you put the chain on.

    6. Then you do the high adjustment (big ring, biggest cog).

    7. And finally, you THEN do the low adjustment (small ring, biggest cog).

    So you will adjust the LOW adjustment screw at step 3 and step 7.

    If you do it by the book, you'll get all 22 gears and perfect shifting. If you try to do it the way most FDs have worked in the past, it will mostly work, but not perfectly.
    steps 1 & 2 only applies to the braze-on FD. For the band-on version, there is no supporting bolt, and you would set the cage parallel to the big ring from the start.

  7. #7
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aclinjury View Post
    steps 1 & 2 only applies to the braze-on FD. For the band-on version, there is no supporting bolt, and you would set the cage parallel to the big ring from the start.
    Good catch!
    I work for some bike racers
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Only thing I would add is to grab the cable (before attaching to derailleur) and pull on it hard while actuating the shifting up and down a few times. This will seat the ferrules and housing and you'll be sure they're starting w/ the shifter in the correct position.
    Ah, yes, this is a really important addition. I failed to do this the first time, and on my first test ride I ended up with slack in the FD cable and had to re-do it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Good catch!
    it's a little surprising that Shimano would implement 2 different ways of adjusting 2 different variant of the FD. Did they do this in their past series? I wonder if the lack of the supporting bolt of the band-on version means that this is the more rigid/stiffer version?

  10. #10
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aclinjury View Post
    it's a little surprising that Shimano would implement 2 different ways of adjusting 2 different variant of the FD. Did they do this in their past series? I wonder if the lack of the supporting bolt of the band-on version means that this is the more rigid/stiffer version?
    Yep...just not many frames have round seat tubes these days.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  11. #11
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    Thanks all! Took all your advice into consideration, condensed it and it's working smoothly!

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