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  1. #1
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    Internal Cable routing on Canyon frames?

    Answers are in post #5.

    I'm planning to upgrade the groupset on my Canyon Endurace CF SL Disc 7.0. I'm replacing the 105 5800 with Ultegra R8020 and getting rid of those ugly RS505 hoods.

    I've replaced cables on a number of bikes that were internally routed (I'm a total amateur, but I do all my own wrenching), but never on a Canyon. Two questions:

    1. For the derailleur cables, should I run straw (liner) inside the frame (over the bare cable) to serve as a guide to run the new cables? Or are there guides inside the frame already?

    2. For the rear hydraulic brake line, how best to proceed?

    I put hydraulic brake lines in a different bike and had a real struggle running the line through the bend in the BB and out the rear chain stay.

    Any advice from someone who has replaced cables on a Canyon would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by fronesis; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:22 PM.

  2. #2
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    Buy this...



    Best thing Park has ever done. For the shift housing do the liner thing for sure.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  3. #3
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    I know they can be hard to get in contact with over the phone, but if you can get Luis, or one of the other technical support staff in the phone, they are really helpful.

    I changed my entire Cockpit on my 2018 Endurace from the the Canyon ergocockpit to a standard stem and bars. This required changing the stem top cap and acquiring 1 1/4" spacers and steerer cap.

    They were very helpful.

    The downside for me is they are required to ship everything signature required, which is a pain in the arse for a few small parts.

    And I definitely agree with CX on that Park cable routing kit. It saves a bunch of time and frustration.

    You also have the benefit of seeing the existing cable runs as you disassemble the current setup. Take lots of pictures and notes as you go.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Buy this...



    Best thing Park has ever done. For the shift housing do the liner thing for sure.
    If that's the Park Cable routing kit, I already own not one both TWO of those. They are awesome!

    I've done some less-than-straightforward internal cable routing, so I was really just trying to get a sense of what I might expect on the Canyon. My experience in the past is that this can go one of two ways:

    1. I know how the internal routing works on the bike, and so I plan accordingly (using the "straw" liner, etc.) and the job goes really quickly.

    2. I don't know what to expect and end up with all old cables removed and have to guess at how to run the new stuff. Then I use the magnets from the Park Tool kit, or tape things together, or use string, and curse a lot and it eventually gets done, but takes 5x as long.

  5. #5
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    Answers

    Just removed the old groupset on my bike (Endurace CF SL Disc 7.0), and can now answer my own question.

    Good news: for both FD and RD cables, there is liner already in the frame. All you have to do is carefully pull the cable forward (out of the frame) where it enters at the downtube, and you can get access to the clear liner. Then run the gear cables into the liner and out at the BB (FD) and the rear of the bike (RD).

    Bad news for me, good news for anyone reading this first: the front brake hose is not too hard, but there's no internal guide, so I used the Park Tool lines (first running them inside the old hose, removing the old hose, and then running the new hose through the fork over the park tool line). I tried to do the same for the rear hose, but I could NOT get the new hose to run through the frame all the way, despite having a park tool line inside the frame (right along the path the old hose had taken). The problem I discovered after an hour of cursing is that Canyon inserts a cable tie into the downtube, through a hole between the water bottle bosses. The cable tie is tightened extremely tight in order to prevent the rear hose from rattling inside the frame. That cable tie must be removed before trying to replace the rear hose. And you'll probably want to insert a new cable tie into the frame: keep it as loose as possible before you run the new hose, and then tie it off at the end.

    Hope this helps someone.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fronesis View Post
    J...Canyon inserts a cable tie into the downtube, through a hole between the water bottle bosses. The cable tie is tightened extremely tight in order to prevent the rear hose from rattling inside the frame. That cable tie must be removed before trying to replace the rear hose. And you'll probably want to insert a new cable tie into the frame: keep it as loose as possible before you run the new hose, and then tie it off at the end.
    THANK YOU! I had noticed that cable tie from the outside of the frame and wondered what it was there for. I haven't had to change my brake lines ... yet... but you surely saved me a ton of frustration when the time comes!

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