New chain making huge racket, no stiff link though...ideas?
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  1. #1
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    New chain making huge racket, no stiff link though...ideas?

    Just threw on a new chain. DA7900. Sized properly, etc. But making a lot of non-rythmic noise. Originally when I installed it the link I put the master pin into was stiff. But I flexed it a bit with my hands and lubed it and it is no longer stiff.

    The noise gets much louder when the chain is under tension. Ie if I just spin at speed essentially coasting, its not very loud. When I apply power its much noisier.

    There isn't any jumping at all.

    I've never had this happen before when replacing a chain. Ideas?

  2. #2
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    With the chain off the bike hold one end in either hand and alternately raise each arm up. Do you visibly see one of the links acting differently. If you can isolate it and would entertain the thought of using a quick link, you might be able to solve the problem that way.

    Hank

  3. #3
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    I think I know whats happening.

    Shift to the big gear in back.
    Then, take a look at your rear derailleur. Make sure the chain is contacting the pullies. Make sure it is NOT sliding on top of the derailleur cage!

  4. #4
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    Correct, make sure the chain is routed correctly around the RD pulleys.
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  5. #5
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    Look down the length of the chain as you slowly pedal, is there any twist or roll?

  6. #6
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    Is the chain on the right way? The 7900 is asymmetrical and must be installed in a certain direction:

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830682232.pdf
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  7. #7
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    most likely it is on backwards - make sure the plates with etching are faced away from bike

  8. #8
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    7900 chain is directional.
    You know its on right when you can read the shimano logo from the drive side on the bike.
    Also could be routed incorrectly through the derailluer.
    Make sure it isn't rubbing the chain catching nub on the derailluer cage.

  9. #9
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    Did I do that?

    Quote Originally Posted by savagemann View Post
    7900 chain is directional.
    You know its on right when you can read the shimano logo from the drive side on the bike.
    Also could be routed incorrectly through the derailluer.
    Make sure it isn't rubbing the chain catching nub on the derailluer cage.
    Just cleaned my chain yesterday...and it was on wrong.

    Thanks

    Hank

  10. #10
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    nope

    Sorry guys... its none of that.

    It's the correct length, its routed correctly, yes its facing correctly.

    I didn't notice any noise when I put it on in the stand. It's when I went for a ride that it made all the noise. Again, its much more noticable when the chain is under tension, ie Im applying power not just spinning.

    Putting back in the stand right now ALL the noise is eminating from the rear derailleur.

    Normally I don't lube the chain right away as Shimanos lube is good for a couple of rides.
    But I did just lube it. Helped a bit in the stand. Haven't taken it for a test ride yet.

    Hank...I haven't removed it yet to check every link. Was just checking to see if there was anything obvious I was missing. But I think I might just splice out a couple of the links around the "master" if I can't figure out anything else.

    Any other ideas?

  11. #11
    Uber Clyde
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    How old is the cassette?
    Derailluer pullies look ok?
    Pointy teeth or square?

  12. #12
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    Worn cassette is most likely the issue. Inspect the cogs for ridges building up on the backside of the teeth.

  13. #13
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    The new directional Shimano chains (6700 and 7900) seem to be significantly noisier on first install than the previous generation (6600 and 7800). This goes away as they bed themselves in. Also I'm not convinced that the goop that they ship with these days is a good quality lubricant. I cleaned that off with a degreaser and started over with my favorite lube. I am aware of what Sheldon Brown said on this subject, but it seems to me that Shimano have changed their formulation.
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  14. #14
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    That Crap is a Dirt Magnet

    Like modern day Cosmoline, It's just meant to protect the chain in the package, when the bike is in the box or on the showroom floor. I get rid of it immediately, in fact I wish I had saved myself the sticky trouble and asked the shop where we just bought my wife's bike to clean the chain in their electrostatic cleaner.

    Hank

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 202cycle View Post
    Worn cassette is most likely the issue. Inspect the cogs for ridges building up on the backside of the teeth.
    Another good question would be how long did you let the last chain go before you replaced it? The longer you go, the more grinding you will hear as the new chain beds. There is also a point of no return where the chain won't bed, but if there is no skipping your probably good.
    Last edited by onespeedbiker; 01-14-2012 at 09:05 AM.
    E fatto espresso divieto di partecipare alla manifestazione con biciclette che non possiedano i suddetti requisiti.Ogni tentativo di farlo a mangiare un piatto di grandi dimensioni di 3 settimane la polenta e in genere di divertimento, soprattutto se egli straniero.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hanks View Post
    Like modern day Cosmoline, It's just meant to protect the chain in the package, when the bike is in the box or on the showroom floor. I get rid of it immediately, in fact I wish I had saved myself the sticky trouble and asked the shop where we just bought my wife's bike to clean the chain in their electrostatic cleaner.

    Hank
    No, that's really not true. Most chain companies use something called adhesive grease on their chains (the grease is warmed up and the chains are dipped); it is similar to the old Bullshot grease. The positive is it protects like crazy and is a good chain lube. The down side is it sticks to everything, everything sticks to it and is difficult to remove (to clean I wipe the chain with Parks Chain Brite and then soak in Simple Green overnight). When I get a new chain I usually wipe the outside with a little (very little) Chain Brite, to keep some of the dirt from sticking and once it starts looking grungy, I clean as I mentioned before and use ChainL. If you follow the ChainL instructions it attracts only a small amount of dirt and lasts a long time.
    E fatto espresso divieto di partecipare alla manifestazione con biciclette che non possiedano i suddetti requisiti.Ogni tentativo di farlo a mangiare un piatto di grandi dimensioni di 3 settimane la polenta e in genere di divertimento, soprattutto se egli straniero.

  17. #17
    Pathlete and Pedalphile
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    I'm going to be installing a new 7901 Dura Ace chain with my new Praxis Works chain rings and new Sram cassette and was wondering, if I don't want to use the Shimano connecting pins, what would be the best master link to use, Wippeman Connex or Sram Powerlink? Oh yeah, or KMC Missing link?
    Last edited by redondoaveb; 01-05-2012 at 02:33 PM.

  18. #18
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    I've had no problem with KMC Missing Link. I bought a card of 6 and if I remember each one worked out to $2.87. I sent two to my brother in NY (rides more than I). Never had a problem BUT I carry a new spare just in case. Would rather spend 2 minutes hooking the chain up than 30 yards and 30 minutes looking for... THE MISSING LINK.

    Makes chain maintenance simple,

    Hank

    onespeedbiker: Bullshot= B______t. It's greasy waxy crap whatever. However I agree with your chain method.

  19. #19
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    I've got spares of all three (Wipperman, Sram and KMC). Just wondering if one is preferred for use on a Dura Ace chain.

  20. #20
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    I always lean towards KMC for Shimano, since they make the chain to begin with I figure it's the best bet. They also seem to be a smoother fit on Shimano than the other 2 options, but that is pure opinion.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpcbike View Post
    I always lean towards KMC for Shimano, since they make the chain to begin with I figure it's the best bet. They also seem to be a smoother fit on Shimano than the other 2 options, but that is pure opinion.
    Thanks. I just started another thread on this as to not hijack the OP's original question.

  22. #22
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    The rear derailleur has 3000. Pulleys still look good. The old chain had 3000. Cassette not sure since I swap wheels alot. Somewhere between 2000-3000.

    I quickly stripped the factory goop off best I could with baby wipes, then over lubed it overnight, then wiped before a ride.

    Went on a group ride...noise all around so hard to tell but it did seem to be much less noisy. Perhaps the chain is "bedding" as it were.

    I do notice in the stand that with the old chain it only made noise in the stand when crosschaining big to big. Now its noisy in all the top 3 cogs. Related to "bedding" at all?

    Cassette looks good to me. I've seen pics of obviously waaaaaay overused cassettes. But does anybody have any good pics of a cassette right at the line where it should barely be replaced?

    As for chain connectors...I've always been told that Shimano does not recommend chain connectors for their chains, just the master pin.

    Thanks all.

  23. #23
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    A new chain on a worn sprocket, or an old chain on a new sprocket will always be noisier than when they're both new or matched for wear. That's a function of vibration caused by the mismatch and may get a bit better with wear, but will never be as quiet as when both were new.

    Chain lube has a big impact on noise lever. Heavy oil lubes like Chain-L and Phil Tenacious (consider the source, I make Chain-L) reduce noise by cushioning the little impact forces as the chain engages and disengages from the sprockets much more than waxes and dry lubes do.

    If you are still bothered by the noise, try a heavier oil and see if it helps. If not you can always go back to what you're now using.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hanks View Post
    Just cleaned my chain yesterday...and it was on wrong.

    Thanks

    Hank
    Don't feel bad, did that myself a few months ago.
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  25. #25
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    I noticed a lot of noise when I first switched from the 7800 to the 7900 groupset. It shifted sweetly but made a racket. Then I swapped the 7900 chain for the KMC X10SL chain, and the drivetrain became much quieter. Interestingly, the quietest chain I've ever used is the KMC X11SL gold chain on the 7900 drivetrain. The 11-speed chain is slightly narrower and therefore has more clearance. I've had no problems shifting with an 11-speed chain on a 10-speed drivetrain.

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