Organic versus metallic brake pads for Shimano Ultegra, Dura Ace, XT, XTR discs
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  1. #1
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    Organic versus metallic brake pads for Shimano Ultegra, Dura Ace, XT, XTR discs

    If you have these Shimano discs, forget about using metallic or semi-metallic pads. They make lots of obnoxious noise. Do yourself a favor and get organic pads. I got the Jagwire ones for $11/pair on ebay. What a huge difference, braking noise went from unbearable to completely quite. Just like that. Amazing.

    yes, I did try to do all the caliper alignment adjust and all that crap. Finally broke down and bought some Jagwire organic pads for $11/pair. Bought 2 pairs for 22 bux, investment ever if you don't want to be "that guy" with an obnoxious loud bike on the trail

    Apparently, Shimano makes these disc in some weird sandwich way where the outter layer is different from the middle layer, it's a sandwich. It's supposed to help with heat dissipation, but... these discs suck with metallic pads. Organic is the way to go, completely silent the screeching beast!

  2. #2
    'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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    ALL Shimano Ultegra, D/A, 105, XTR, XT, etc brakes come w/ RESIN (organic as you say) pads stock. ALL of them. That should say something.
    #promechaniclife

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    ALL Shimano Ultegra, D/A, 105, XTR, XT, etc brakes come w/ RESIN (organic as you say) pads stock. ALL of them. That should say something.
    I have Sram Elixir Ultimate brakes on my XC mtb, and it comes with OEM steel discs. Then I decided I want to swap in XT disc,.. and just left the existing SRAM pads there. At first the noise was just a little, then grew louder and louder, to the point that its unbearable under hard braking,, AND... it's not just the noise, my fork was vibrating hard due to the abnormal bind of the pads against the disc, causing some pulsation. At first, I thought, ok, maybe I need to realign the caliper. Loosen caliper screw and realign,, nothing, nada, symptoms still there. Then I bought the Jagwire organic pads and compared them to the Sram pads, and immediately, I noticed SRAM pads were different in that they have metallic bits in them, ugh... I should have checked SRAM pads sooner! What the hell was SRAM thinking using semi-metallic pads on their Elixir Ultimate series (which is for XC use, we're not talking DH use where semi-metallic provide breaking for power). Lesson learned!

  4. #4
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    Organic versus metallic brake pads for Shimano Ultegra, Dura Ace, XT, XTR discs

    Resin pads may be quieter (my front brakes still howled when I got the brakes hot) but pad life sucks. 2600 miles and my L02A pads were worn out, and it's not like I'm doing a lot of mountain descents where I'm on my brakes a lot either. My rim brake pads on my other bike last 10x as long. I'm hoping for longer pad life with the L03A pads (the packaging says 40% better life) but even that isn't much of an improvement since pad life is so dismal as it is. Another alternative is Swissstop, but they cost 2x as much, but if they last much longer...

    On my mountain bike with Hayes brakes, I experimented with different pads. The metallic pads lasted long but did produce a bit more noise and rotor wear than the semi-metallic (i.e., organic, resin; different names for the same type of pad), but the quietest and long wearing were Alligator ceramic pads. The downside of the ceramics was they took more lever force to stop.
    Last edited by mfdemicco; 1 Week Ago at 07:19 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by aclinjury View Post
    I have Sram Elixir Ultimate brakes on my XC mtb, and it comes with OEM steel discs. Then I decided I want to swap in XT disc,.. and just left the existing SRAM pads there. At first the noise was just a little, then grew louder and louder, to the point that its unbearable under hard braking,, AND... it's not just the noise, my fork was vibrating hard due to the abnormal bind of the pads against the disc, causing some pulsation. At first, I thought, ok, maybe I need to realign the caliper. Loosen caliper screw and realign,, nothing, nada, symptoms still there. Then I bought the Jagwire organic pads and compared them to the Sram pads, and immediately, I noticed SRAM pads were different in that they have metallic bits in them, ugh... I should have checked SRAM pads sooner! What the hell was SRAM thinking using semi-metallic pads on their Elixir Ultimate series (which is for XC use, we're not talking DH use where semi-metallic provide breaking for power). Lesson learned!
    Shimano resin pads have metal in them. The 'new' formula has 40% more metal. Shimano Ice Tech rotors are an aluminum core w/ a stainless steel braking surface on each side. They work fine w/ metallic pads but those pads will generally be noisier and they'll last longer while wearing the rotor out faster.
    #promechaniclife

  6. #6
    'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Resin pads may be quieter (my front brakes still howled when I got the brakes hot) but pad life sucks. 2600 miles and my L02A pads were worn out, and it's not like I'm doing a lot of mountain descents where I'm on my brakes a lot either. My rim brake pads on my other bike last 10x as long. I'm hoping for longer pad life with the L03A pads (the packaging says 40% better life) but even that isn't much of an improvement since pad life is so dismal as it is. Another alternative is Swissstop, but they cost 2x as much, but if they last much longer...
    Front, rear, or both?
    #promechaniclife

  7. #7
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    Organic versus metallic brake pads for Shimano Ultegra, Dura Ace, XT, XTR discs

    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Front, rear, or both?
    Both, about the same amount of wear.

    I think a lot of folks are going to ruin their rotors before they realize their pads are worn out, or it could be a safety issue too.

  8. #8
    'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Both, about the same amount of wear.

    I think a lot of folks are going to ruin their rotors before they realize their pads are worn out, or it could be a safety issue too.
    Huh...if they're both about the same I'm not sure. It's definitely possible to get them hot enough to melt the aluminum from between the steel braking surfaces.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Huh...if they're both about the same I'm not sure. It's definitely possible to get them hot enough to melt the aluminum from between the steel braking surfaces.

    What I'm saying is if you run the pads down to the metal backing (i.e., metal on metal) you are going to score the rotors.

    I recommend inspecting the thickness of the pads on a regular basis by looking through the opening in the caliper, given the relatively short pad life.

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    Anyone tried anti-squeal paste?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bvber View Post
    Anyone tried anti-squeal paste?
    I tried some on my gravel bike (Avid BB7 brakes) and I think it decreased the amount of noise. However, I discontinued it's use because it seemed to attract dirt and the brakes really don't squeal very often. Mostly just if they get slightly wet and it stops as soon as I use them enough to dry the rotors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Huh...if they're both about the same I'm not sure. It's definitely possible to get them hot enough to melt the aluminum from between the steel braking surfaces.
    Are you saying there is AL sandwiched by steel on the brake surface itself? I thought it was just the center that is AL.
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    Yea, if that was alum laminated to steel, subject to 1200F and staying attached, that would be sumpt'in!
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Are you saying there is AL sandwiched by steel on the brake surface itself? I thought it was just the center that is AL.
    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    Yea, if that was alum laminated to steel, subject to 1200F and staying attached, that would be sumpt'in!
    The aluminum is sandwiched between stainless and Clad together. They are pressed with immense pressure that creates a metallurgical bond at the atomic lattices of the different metals and merge into a common structure. They will remain permanently together, unless of course one melts.
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    Melting temperature of Al-1200F, SS-1540F. That would not work on a car/truck disk.
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  16. #16
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    Melting temperature of Al-1200F, SS-1540F. That would not work on a car/truck disk.
    Stainless melts at 2500F-2800F
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

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