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  1. #1
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    Problem with R8000 front derailleur

    I recently installed a Shimano R8000 front derailleur on my everyday bike, replacing the 6800 one. The bike has Shimano R685 levers (first gen mechanical shift/hydraulic brake levers). The 6800 FD has always been a bit stiff, and I read that the newer 8000 shifts smoother.

    So I followed the detailed setup instructions from the Shimano dealer manual. The bike has a braze-on type mount, but the mount itself is bolted on so I didn't need the backup plate. However, I still adjusted the mount as described, i.e. I tightened the clamp bolt with the derailleur tail slight skewed inward, then tightened the "support bolt" to bring the tail parallel. (The support bolt pushes against the braze-on mount plate in this case.)

    I proceeded setting limit screws etc. per the manual, and everything seemed fine on the workstand. On the test ride, however, I found that about half the time I would shift from big ring to small, the chain wouldn't drop to the small ring unless I pushed the lever release a second time. I thought maybe the cable tension was too high, but when I got back and loosened it a couple turns the problem wasn't solved.

    It seems that the first downshift releases only to the inner *trim position* of the derailleur, and a second click releases it to the full inner position. The outer trim click works fine, although I never use it.

    Does anyone have an idea what could be the solution to this problem?

  2. #2
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    You didn't pay enough attention to the instructions. You should definitely be shifting to the small ring w/ the first shift movement of the shifter. You should then have the small ring full low gear position, the derailleur should move another 3-4mm when you use that trim click. It sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to but you just don't have it adjusted properly. I'd read through the instructions again, make sure you do everything exactly as Shimano says and see what happens. If you still aren't getting the right results let me know and I'll post exactly what I do.
    I work for some bike racers
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  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    OK thanks CX, l'll go over the steps again & report back.

  4. #4
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    remember that cable tension is adjusted on high trim position

  5. #5
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    Grammar and punctuation matter Wayne.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  6. #6
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    Another thing to keep in mind with the newer 'toggle' FDs is that the setup is not done the same way as any previous models. Cable tension is set to a specific value (i.e. the alignment marks) and then subsequent adjustments are made with the cage positioning screw which should NOT be used like a hi limit screw.

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