Shimano 7700/7701 Dura Ace Bottom Bracket
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  1. #1
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    Shimano 7700/7701 Dura Ace Bottom Bracket

    I just installed a Shimano Dura Ace 7701 bottom bracket with a new crank. It said 7701 on the bottom bracket but the directions are for a 7700. Not sure that's all about but at any rate I put the left hand lock ring on how they say to remove the play but not too tight etc and once all installed Inotice maybe a mm or so of threads are still showing towards the crank arm. I suspect I need some kind of spacer or something up against the frame to make the lockring flush so that no threads stick out. What are these "spacers" called and where might one get them or does it really matter if the threads stick out a little.

  2. #2
    Windrider (Stubborn)
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    Sounds to me like.....

    Quote Originally Posted by bikejr
    I just installed a Shimano Dura Ace 7701 bottom bracket with a new crank. It said 7701 on the bottom bracket but the directions are for a 7700. Not sure that's all about but at any rate I put the left hand lock ring on how they say to remove the play but not too tight etc and once all installed Inotice maybe a mm or so of threads are still showing towards the crank arm. I suspect I need some kind of spacer or something up against the frame to make the lockring flush so that no threads stick out. What are these "spacers" called and where might one get them or does it really matter if the threads stick out a little.
    you didn't tighten the drive side enough.

    The Drive side should be flush with the BB. If you have the right spindle length, the BB is dsigned to provide the correct chain line when flush with the BB.

    Once that is right, you then install the non-drive side. You know it is right when after you install the lockring, there are little if any teeth showing on the non-drive side.

    My .02

    Len



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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len J
    you didn't tighten the drive side enough.

    The Drive side should be flush with the BB. If you have the right spindle length, the BB is dsigned to provide the correct chain line when flush with the BB.

    Once that is right, you then install the non-drive side. You know it is right when after you install the lockring, there are little if any teeth showing on the non-drive side.

    My .02

    Len
    I installed the drive side first, which is of course the fixed part. I tightened it until it was up against the frame and snug as I could get it with the lame three pronged tool to install (there are no spines to use the regular BB nut to tighten it). Not sure how it would tighten anymore. The left side is backed off 1/16 of a turn as they suggested. If I tighten that up (which would bring the threads at least further in the shell, then the spindle binds. It is a 68mm bottom bracket (or at least that's how it is labeled) and my frame has standard size tubes.

  4. #4

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    You are OK... Threads showing on the left side is normal.

    Install drive side. Go ahead and install drive side crank arm.

    Install non-drive side. Tighten just till "play" is gone. Use the drive side crank to feel for lateral play.

    Then tighten the lock ring.

    There WILL be threads showing off the non-drive side. Like, 2-3 mm of threads.

  5. #5
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    ...

    Quote Originally Posted by ekdave
    Install drive side. Go ahead and install drive side crank arm.

    Install non-drive side. Tighten just till "play" is gone. Use the drive side crank to feel for lateral play.

    Then tighten the lock ring.

    There WILL be threads showing off the non-drive side. Like, 2-3 mm of threads.
    Thanks for the reply.

    That was exactly how I installed it, and was the conclusion I was coming to as it seems to be working flawlessly at this point anyway and it has been run through a stomping hard hill climb, and a fast group ride with no difficulties. The exposed threads (yea like 2mm I'd say) were just somewhat of a concern.

  6. #6
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    Normal, I think that I have two threads showing on the non-drive side.
    If your opinion differs from mine, ..........Too bad.
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