Shimano 8000 Di2 - eTube screw size ?
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  1. #1
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    Shimano 8000 Di2 - eTube screw size ?

    Hello!

    The tech who built my bike cross-threaded one of the screws that attaches the rectangle plastic cover that goes over the Di2 eTube port (used for charging) on the down tube.

    One screw removed easily but the other has broken off and will need to be extracted and replaced so that the cover can be properly reinstalled holding the di2 junction box in.

    My question is, I know the screws are 2mm, but does anyone know the thread size so that I can replace it? I can not seem to find this information, or even the screws for sale, anywhere online.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    tlg
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    (1) Shimano 8000 is mechanical. 8050 is Di2

    (2) If the screw was cross threaded so bad that it snapped off, chances are the threads are ruined. Depending on how the insert is attached to your frame, that could be a big problem to fix. What aren't you making the tech who f'd it up fix it?

    (3) You know the screws are 2mm? How? That seems too small.

    (4) Shimano doesn't disclose the screw size (or sell them individually). They only come as a kit with the cover. Shimano part number Y71J98040
    https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-EW-RS910-4198.pdf
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    (1) Shimano 8000 is mechanical. 8050 is Di2

    (2) If the screw was cross threaded so bad that it snapped off, chances are the threads are ruined. Depending on how the insert is attached to your frame, that could be a big problem to fix. What aren't you making the tech who f'd it up fix it?

    (3) You know the screws are 2mm? How? That seems too small.

    (4) Shimano doesn't disclose the screw size (or sell them individually). They only come as a kit with the cover. Shimano part number Y71J98040
    https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-EW-RS910-4198.pdf
    Thanks for the response!

    My fault, Shimano 8050, not 8000.

    My local shop has been nothing but issues and is no longer a viable option for getting things fixed. This is not the first issue I have had with the build since I purchased the bike a month ago.

    When I say the screws are 2mm, I mean that is the size of the Allen Wrench needed to remove / install them. I know this because a 2mm allen key is used to remove / install the working screw.

    Thanks for the pdf link. I will call Shimano and see if they can sell me the screws on their own, or even with the cover. Trying to avoid paying $100+ for the entire junction. My only other option is to see if I can cut out the nuts from the frame and glue new ones back in rather than re threading the bolt.

  4. #4
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Askeptic View Post
    My local shop has been nothing but issues and is no longer a viable option for getting things fixed. This is not the first issue I have had with the build since I purchased the bike a month ago.
    That sucks. You could try another shop that sells your brand bike. Any would be able to cover a warranty issue.

    When I say the screws are 2mm, I mean that is the size of the Allen Wrench needed to remove / install them. I know this because a 2mm allen key is used to remove / install the working screw.
    Ok, then it should be an M3x0.5 DIN 7984 screw. Google it. Or try ebay. You can get them in stainless steel for a couple dollars.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/92855a316

    I will call Shimano and see if they can sell me the screws on their own, or even with the cover.
    Forget it. They absolutely will not sell you just the screw. If they were to sell you something, it'd be Y71J98040. Although, they'd make you go through an LBS. You can get it on Amazon for $22.
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  5. #5
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    Thank you!

  6. #6
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Hold on...the cover you're talking about is part of the frame, right? Not a Shimano part? Am I right?
    I work for some bike racers
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Hold on...the cover you're talking about is part of the frame, right? Not a Shimano part? Am I right?
    It is part of Shimano Y71J98040

  8. #8
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Here's an idea: Take the one screw that you were able to remove to (a store of some type that sells screws...I think they're called 'hardware stores') and match it up to a new one.
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  9. #9
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    Most ACE hardware stores have a very good supply of inch and metric stainless nut, bolt and fittings.
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  10. #10
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    You still have to get the sheared off one out of the 'nut'.
    You didn't post a picture, but if the axis of the thread is not straight at a 'tube', you could take it to a small machine shop and they could drill it out, if they can get at it.
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  11. #11
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    You still have to get the sheared off one out of the 'nut'.
    You didn't post a picture, but if the axis of the thread is not straight at a 'tube', you could take it to a small machine shop and they could drill it out, if they can get at it.
    We drill them all the time. Usually you can get them out w/ an Easy-Out, if that doesn't work I drill through them and then cut new threads. I'm sure some bike shops can do this, but I can also see some of them screwing it up really badly. It's not hard, some mechanics are just a bit...challenged...
    I work for some bike racers
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Ok, then it should be an M3x0.5 DIN 7984 screw. Google it. Or try ebay. You can get them in stainless steel for a couple dollars.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/92855a316
    Thanks again! That was exactly what the size of the screw was. Saved me quite a bit of money.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    We drill them all the time. Usually you can get them out w/ an Easy-Out, if that doesn't work I drill through them and then cut new threads. I'm sure some bike shops can do this, but I can also see some of them screwing it up really badly. It's not hard, some mechanics are just a bit...challenged...
    Thanks! I was able to drill it out (too much gone to use an extractor / easy-out) and then tap it. Works like new now with the original nut.

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