Shimano Ultegra RD-R8000 Upshift Problem
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  1. #1
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    Shimano Ultegra RD-R8000 Upshift Problem [SOLVED]

    [SOLVED: The problem was a combination of the rear derailleur cable slack slightly out of adjustment and the front derailleur slightly rubbing the chain when the big front chainring was in use with the mid to small cassette cogs. I added a 1/2 turn to the front derailleur extension limit screw and now everything works well and is quiet. Thanks for the help.]

    I have a new bike with a Shimano Ultegra RD-8000 rear derailleur and 11 speed cassette that shifts perfectly when moving to a higher gear ratio (smaller sprocket) but when shifting the other direction the chain runs noisily.

    I can't adjust the cable tension to quiet the drivetrain after downshifts. I verified the noise is coming from the rear of the bike. The rear derailleur overtravel limits are set correctly for high and low.

    On my other bikes I could always get the drivetrain to run quietly. Any suggestions to why upshifts would be noisy and downshifts perfect? Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by RobRob; 1 Week Ago at 06:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    Does it get “worse” as the cogs get larger (25 teeth vs 19 teeth for example)? If so, I’d look at the b screw setting.


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    No, it's noisiest on the mid to small cogs using either chainring.

    It's possible the cable is too tight. I'm going to add a little slack and readjust. I'll report back.

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    Maybe hanger alignment issue?

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    Do you have a technique to verify the hanger alignment other than eyeball?

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    After playing with the rear derailleur adjustment I found that when shifting to a lower gear (larger cog) if I push the shift lever well beyond the index click, but short of the second click, the drivetrain shifts and runs quietly. If I just push the lever to the first click the bike will shift but the drivetrain run noisy. Is this normal?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRob View Post
    No, it's noisiest on the mid to small cogs using either chainring.

    It's possible the cable is too tight. I'm going to add a little slack and readjust. I'll report back.
    Shifting to larger cogs...easier gears...is downshifting, not upshifting. It does sound like either a hanger alignment issue or your tension is off a bit.
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    On my new road bike I had something similar. My bike is 9-speed Sora It shifted to higher gears fast, but shifting to lower gears was harder. Just clicking (up cassette) one click, the derailleur wouldn't shift down sometimes. When it didn’t go down one gear, I had to click one more time, then it would go down 2 gears and I would then shift up one gear to get the gear I wanted. I then changed wheels and moved my cassette to the new wheel and torqued it to per Shimano spec. (30 NM). Now the bike shifted down correctly but doesn't shift up as fast as before. The factory over torqued the cassette and it didn't match the shifter's indexing.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ra21benj View Post
    On my new road bike I had something similar. My bike is 9-speed Sora It shifted to higher gears fast, but shifting to lower gears was harder. Just clicking (up cassette) one click, the derailleur wouldn't shift down sometimes. When it didn’t go down one gear, I had to click one more time, then it would go down 2 gears and I would then shift up one gear to get the gear I wanted. I then changed wheels and moved my cassette to the new wheel and torqued it to per Shimano spec. (30 NM). Now the bike shifted down correctly but doesn't shift up as fast as before. The factory over torqued the cassette and it didn't match the shifter's indexing.
    This was not the reason.
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  10. #10
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    The only thing I changed was the new rear wheel (with correct cassette spacer) and now the bike downshifts correctly. I didn't change the rear stop screws,the b screw setting, or the shift cable tension.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ra21benj View Post
    The only thing I changed was the new rear wheel (with correct cassette spacer) and now the bike downshifts correctly. I didn't change the rear stop screws,the b screw setting, or the shift cable tension.
    The torque on the cassette was not the problem. It would not change the indexing.
    Something else was the problem... like...oh.... maybe.... 'correct cassette spacer'
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRob View Post
    Do you have a technique to verify the hanger alignment other than eyeball?
    Hanger alignment tool is the only way I know to get it right. In my experience eyeballs only see misalignment that is very bad and are not very helpful at fixing it.

    I made my own tool out of a length of 1" steel tube with a hole drilled in one end to fit a bolt that screws into the derailleur mounting hole. A fine thread bolt to match the derailleur bolt and a few washers to space the tube out. I use a tape measure and measure the distance from the rim to the other end of the steel tube and adjust the hanger until the measurement is the same all around the wheel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    The torque on the cassette was not the problem. It would not change the indexing.
    Something else was the problem... like...oh.... maybe.... 'correct cassette spacer'
    For the new wheels I used the 9 speed cassette spacer that came with the wheels.

    My original wheels that came with the bike also had a spacer for the 9 speed cassette. Maybe they included the wrong spacer from the factory?

  14. #14
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    Your adjustment was off for one wheel and right on for the other. Despite there being standards not every wheel will locate a cassette in the same place.
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  15. #15
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    The problem was a combination of the rear derailleur cable slack slightly out of adjustment and the front derailleur slightly rubbing the chain when the big front chainring was in use with the mid to small cassette cogs. I adjusted the cable and added a 1/2 turn to the front derailleur extension limit screw and now everything works well and is quiet. Thanks for the help.

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