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Should I have to try parts combinations to find one that works?

6K views 53 replies 11 participants last post by  Waspinator 
#1 ·
So, I'm building up a road disc bike and I'm finding that two different rotors don't clear the frame. By measurement, other hubs may offer a fraction of a millimeter more clearance, and so too may other rotors.

So, is it commonplace to do this when building up bikes with disc brakes? ie trying different hubs and rotors to see which combination will work? Or should frames incorporate enough clearance to allow for variances in hubs and rotors? I would have thought that any 142mm through-axle 6-bolt hub and any 6-bolt 140mm rotor ought to work on any frame requiring those parts.
 
#2 ·
In a word, yes. You have had a few problems with this build from the bottom bracket to the hubs. When there is a pattern it's often not just the tools and parts. Maybe you should just send the frame and parts to Litespeed and let them sort it out? This build may be above your ability or experience level. I know you don't want your LBS touching this frame but think of the time you would have saved by outsourcing the build. Good luck.
 
#3 ·
Now now! That's a very unfair assessment.

I hardly think the issue I'm having with rotor clearance has anything to do with my skill in building bikes. My LBS wouldn't be any more equipped to predict the problem or deal with it than I would. I've built four mountain bikes with disc brakes and not once have I ever had an issue with clearance.

As for the bottom bracket, everyone has the occasional issue with installation. It happens.
 
#4 ·
What is the brand of hub?

There are three possibilities given that you're already using 140mm rotors. Either the hub is really bad, the rotor is not planar, or the frame was welded wrong.
 
#6 · (Edited)
So, is it commonplace to do this when building up bikes with disc brakes? ie trying different hubs and rotors to see which combination will work? Or should frames incorporate enough clearance to allow for variances in hubs and rotors? I would have thought that any 142mm through-axle 6-bolt hub and any 6-bolt 140mm rotor ought to work on any frame requiring those parts.
I've been following your travails and I'm inclined to believe your problem lies with the frame being built with the 142mm rear end. I believe you said the frame was custom. I'd bet if the frame was built with a 130mm road or 135mm ATB rear end, you would not have a problem. I'll hazard a guess the manufacturer hadn't designed their chainstays to accommodate the various designs.

To answer your question; FRAME manufacturers SHOULD design their frames for universal compatibility and the industry should set standards, to protect customers. It also benefits the company in terms of wider acceptance by the public when they can choose the parts they prefer.
 
#8 ·
I'm inclined to believe your problem lies with the frame being built with the 142mm rear end. I believe you said the frame was custom. I'd bet if the frame was built with a 130mm road or 135mm ATB rear end, you would not have a problem. I'll hazard a guess the manufacturer hadn't designed their chainstays to accommodate the various designs..
https://youtu.be/MncE8ni4fbU?t=2m10s It seems they have. Remember these guys are NASA contractors
 
#7 ·
I think you misunderstood what they're talking about when saying "mixing and matching". Yes, hydraulic levers from one brand shouldn't be paired with hydraulic calipers from another brand, etc. Using different rotors, however, is an entirely different thing. It's very doable.

Second: I'm curious.... are you suggesting that I should have handed my bike frame to the local bike shop and say, "Here you go boys. Build it up nicely for me using whatever parts you see fit!"? Maybe they'd have used the full Shimano Dura-Ace groupset to do it, but that's not what I want.

Chris King and Industry Nine make bicycle hubs because there are people who want higher quality hubs with quicker engagement. FSA makes cranks and chain rings that do indeed work with Shimano derailleurs and cassette. These companies do sell their products because they make them to meet industry standards. Your contention that "mixing and matching" is causing me problems contradicts the fact that we've been mixing and matching bike parts for decades! I don't think I've ever used a Shimano hub before. But I've used plenty of Chris King hubs that work just fine with my Shimano disc brakes!

Maybe the tolerances on a road bike are a little more finicky than they are for mountain bikes. Maybe Litespeed designed their bikes to be used only with Shimano centerlock hubs and Freeza disc rotors. But if that were the case, then the frame would become a paperweight when Shimano changes their hubs and disc rotors.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Using different rotors, however, is an entirely different thing. It's very doable.
No it's not. You prove this and the Shimano installation documentation (have you read it yet ?) I'll let you indicate to me where they show you the instructions for your application. si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RADBR01-00-ENG.pdf Search for the 6 bolt rotor installation instructions.



Second: I'm curious.... Maybe they'd have used the full Shimano Dura-Ace groupset to do it, but that's not what I want.
Don't buy Shimano then. But they did invent the flat mount standard which you also bought. Shimano are notorious at dictating standards. Have been doing it for decades.

Chris King and Industry Nine make bicycle hubs because there are people who want higher quality hubs with quicker engagement. FSA makes cranks and chain rings that do indeed work with Shimano derailleurs and cassette. These companies do sell their products because they make them to meet industry standards. Your contention that "mixing and matching" is causing me problems contradicts the fact that we've been mixing and matching bike parts for decades!
Again, your experience supports my conclusion, not yours. Assumptions aren't reality.

I don't think I've ever used a Shimano hub before. But I've used plenty of Chris King hubs that work just fine with my Shimano disc brakes
not in a road configuration. Your experience is obsolete in this case. Why didn't you just buy these? https://chrisking.com/products/332 or these https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/hubs/240-straightpull/ or these https://industrynine.com/torch-classic-road-hubs/classic-j-bend-road-cx-centerlock-hubs no problems and a heck of a lot less stress. You'd be riding your bike already. Your lack of experience shows in your contemporary knowledge base. Pro's don't make assumptions like we amateurs do. If they do then they eat the costs. You bought a set of wheels that don't fit your bike, that's your basic amateur mistake. I'm sorry you goofed up but you did. Try and send them back, eat some humble pie and learn about asking questions pre-purchase.

Maybe the tolerances on a road bike are a little more finicky than they are for mountain bikes. Maybe Litespeed designed their bikes to be used only with Shimano centerlock hubs and Freeza disc rotors. But if that were the case, then the frame would become a paperweight when Shimano changes their hubs and disc rotors.
like bikes built before taper headsets and disc brakes became the new standard?
 
#20 ·
I can't imagine a 140mm rotor NOT fitting any frame unless there is a giant ****-up on someone's part. It shouldn't matter whether you're using 6 bolt or CL, either rotor should end up in the same spot in space. There should be NO contact w/ the frame and there should be plenty of adjustment in the caliper so the pads don't rub on the rotor. It would be hard to imagine that Litespeed could even build a frame that would that far off given how their fittings and jigs should work. Add to that the (hopefully) multiple levels of QC the frame should pass through, it would be very hard to have a frame leave their production facility w/ this kind of error. Lots of bikes use 142x12 rear wheels, this is nothing new or radical. I'd love to get this bike in my shop to see what's up, but since that isn't going to happen it would be great if you would provide some photos.
 
#42 ·
I can't imagine a 140mm rotor NOT fitting any frame unless there is a giant ****-up on someone's part. It shouldn't matter whether you're using 6 bolt or CL, either rotor should end up in the same spot in space. There should be NO contact w/ the frame and there should be plenty of adjustment in the caliper so the pads don't rub on the rotor.
Frames must have really changed. My very first attempt at installing a 140 mm disk brake rotor, the disk hits the front fork by about 5 mm. The fact that this is a 199? bicycle probably has something to do with it.
I'm an all weather biker (except when ice is in piles in the bike lane). I'm so worried about horrid rim brake performance that I took a belt sander and put radial groves in my lovely chrome plate rim Sat afternoon. The dry performance improvement was nil. We'll see about what happens in the rain in the future.
I'll admit my hand strength is below normal, to seriously grip the brake handle. But so is my weight - 160.
 
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