Skipping middle chainring
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  1. #1
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    Skipping middle chainring

    Changed my chain and now it skips on the middle chainring. Can I change the clock position of the chainring so the high force position of the chain is on the less worn teeth? It's a Deore M590 crank with friction shifting on the front derailleur.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Changed my chain and now it skips on the middle chainring. Can I change the clock position of the chainring so the high force position of the chain is on the less worn teeth? It's a Deore M590 crank with friction shifting on the front derailleur.
    I'm not specifically familiar with that crank/chain ring but you can almost assuredly determine whether the ring can be rotated just by looking closely at it. If all of the chain ring bolts are the same and each of the mounts on the ring are the same, then the ring can be rotated. Whether this will be of help in any way is another question. I suspect if you look at the worn teeth on the ring you will see the wear is pretty uniform around its circumference.

  3. #3
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    Yeah, you can try that, but I just don't see this doing anything. From what I understand of the physics behind the whole 'shifting ramps' theory, I don't see where rotational position relative to the next ring would matter much. What WOULD matter are things like a worn chain, worn rings, dirty chain, over-width chain, bent ring, etc.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  4. #4
    'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Changed my chain and now it skips on the middle chainring. Can I change the clock position of the chainring so the high force position of the chain is on the less worn teeth? It's a Deore M590 crank with friction shifting on the front derailleur.
    I'd replace the chainring for sure.
    #promechaniclife

  5. #5
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    Skipping middle chainring

    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I'd replace the chainring for sure.
    Yeah, I did (I had a spare), but had to remove the crank to do it and it would have been easier to just reclock the chainring (I verified it could be rotated). Since I'm using friction shift, I don't think having those shifting pins line up would make a lot of difference in shifting quality. Oh well, just wondering if anyone has tried this with any success. All the teeth look about the same, but I can't see any significant wear either.
    Last edited by mfdemicco; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:50 PM.

  6. #6
    gazing from the shadows
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Since I'm using friction shift, I don't think having those shifting pins line up would make a lot of difference in shifting quality..

    but I can't see any significant wear either.
    The pins and ramps do help with friction shifting. Especially under power. If you think about how pushing a chain sideways into a flat ring is different from one with pins and ramps, I am sure you can see why.

    New chain skipping on old rings is the CLASSIC sign of worn rings. Whether you personally could see the wear or not.
    .
    Stout beers under trees, please.

  7. #7
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    Replace the chainring. Done.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Yeah, I did (I had a spare), but had to remove the crank to do it
    Again, I'm not specifically familiar with this crankset, but are you sure you needed to remove the crank to change rings? I've heard people say that over the years but I've always been able to take the rings off without removing the crank.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Again, I'm not specifically familiar with this crankset, but are you sure you needed to remove the crank to change rings? I've heard people say that over the years but I've always been able to take the rings off without removing the crank.
    Yes, tried that and have done that on other cranks. The outer ring was removable without removing the crank, but I couldn't slip the middle ring out.

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