SRAM Rival front derailleur adjustment
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  1. #1
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    SRAM Rival front derailleur adjustment

    I made a some what successful adjustment to some one's Rival front derailleur today but I wasn't happy with the results. I've been looking for on line guides but haven't found anything very usefull.

    Story is that we stopped at the top of Hawk Hill and there were three women trying to sort out what was happening with the front derailleur on one of their bikes. It was a new bike and was probably ready for it's 100-mile tune up.

    The rider said that she was having lot's of trouble shifthing to the large chain ring. It woked a little better at some rear derailleur settings than others.

    I noticed that the front derailleur cable was very slack. I shifted to the small chain ring, loosened the pinch bolt, pulled the cable taut, tightened it back down. That made the shift to the big chain ring (mostly) smooth but shifting to the small chain ring was not consistent. This was good enough for her to decide to continue with her ride.

    Shimano, I could have more-or-less done with my eyes closed but I need schooling on SRAM. What's the process?

    OTOH, the secound time up the hill we got passed by some dude on a rental bike. He was rolling fast. He turned a corner and I heard a loud POP Hiiiissssssss.

    His rear tire was worn clear through the casing. I taped the inside with a big piece of duct tape. Grabbed a Cliff Bar, folded the wrapper over a few times and then taped that in place with an even bigger piece of tape. That seemed to work fine. I probably do that at least once a year

  2. #2
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slow.climber
    It was a new bike and was probably ready for it's 100-mile tune up.


    Shimano, I could have more-or-less done with my eyes closed but I need schooling on SRAM. What's the process?
    hawk hill? in the headlands? pretty nice up there today, for sure.

    the process for setting up a sram front derailleur is the same as shimano. each bike may need a bit of tweeking to get it perfect, but the process is identical.
    i am of the opinion that bikes should not need '100 mile' tune ups. you should be able to compress the housings, and seat the ferrules in the shop so that the bike can be ridden w/o needing adjustment after 1-3 rides. i realize that most shop mechanics either don't know this, or don't care.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  3. #3
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    Yup, it was great today. It was good to see so many people out enjoying the good weather.

    Thanks for the info on the process. I would have spent some time dialing it in but I didn't want to be 'that guy'.

    What's the deal with compressing the housing on a new cable? How does that work?

  4. #4
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    when i install new housing i put a little grease on the end of the housing when i put the ferrule on, this will help. push the ferrule on as far as you can. when it's installed on the bike, i shift the front derailleur a bunch, and pull on the cable. this will get you a bunch of slack that you can then take up at the anchor bolt. repeat as necessary. for the rear derailleur i hold the body of the derailleur and shift a couple of times, again...repeat as necessary. i like to take all possibility of needing an adjustment in the middle of a ride out of the equation, especially w/ the team bikes. any time a team riders bike doesn't work correctly, it's my fault. i really like to minimize the chances of that happening.

    yesterday was great. i did a mtb ride on Tam in the morning, then took the moto out over panoramic hwy to Stinson, then down hwy1 to Muir, then back over the hill.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

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