Stopping heel rub wear on crank arm - Page 2
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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    Changing where my heel stops rotating inward is changing something. I can't understand how that could be viewed as not changing anything but whatever. That also changes where it stops rotating outward but I never hit that limit so kinda n/a.

    Do you care about cleat position at all or do you just slap them on where ever the happen to land. If the former I think you must understand how moving cleats is changing something.
    Sure I care about cleat position quite a bit - however please explain how your heel is traveling further inward than your crank arm when obviously your crank arm prevents it from doing that during the highest power portion of your pedal stroke when you have the biggest load on your knees?

    Bike fit changes over time and the body adapts, when's the last time you had a good fit done?
    Last edited by Srode; 07-17-2019 at 01:03 PM.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    If he injures that back of his foot, how long will it take his heel to heal?
    Well Heelll! Grammatically challenged I am
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    The 'tip' isn't the concern. The arm is. And yes... it is possible.
    Even if you don't wear through, reducing the material 10% will reduce the strength 10%. Having ultra light hollow crank arms with very thin cross sections, there's not much material to begin with.

    Wowzer!!!!
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  4. #29
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    How many pairs of shoes did it take to make that hole?
    No one here did that, once in eternity!
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    Sure I care about cleat position quite a bit - however please explain how your heel is traveling further inward than your crank arm when obviously your crank arm prevents it from doing that during the highest power portion of your pedal stroke when you have the biggest load on your knees?

    Bike fit changes over time and the body adapts, when's the last time you had a good fit done?

    Responding so as to not look like I'm ignoring your question but I'm going to have to give up. I can't even imagine what the disconnect might be if you're not understanding how simple heel rub is happening and/or how changing the float limits to prevent it actually is a change.

    "heel is traveling further inward than your crank arm when obviously your crank arm prevents it from doing that" Huh? Rub means rub. I don't think I said or implied I'm magically pedaling 'through' the crank arm.

    Like I said already (in different words) I am not going to fix something that isn't broken and that my otherwise tender knees have been successful with. My last bike fit was when I felt there was room for improvement.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    Responding so as to not look like I'm ignoring your question but I'm going to have to give up. I can't even imagine what the disconnect might be if you're not understanding how simple heel rub is happening and/or how changing the float limits to prevent it actually is a change.

    "heel is traveling further inward than your crank arm when obviously your crank arm prevents it from doing that" Huh? Rub means rub. I don't think I said or implied I'm magically pedaling 'through' the crank arm.

    Like I said already (in different words) I am not going to fix something that isn't broken and that my otherwise tender knees have been successful with. My last bike fit was when I felt there was room for improvement.
    Its hard to imagine moving your cleats so they are creating a gap of a couple millimeters from the heel to the crank would be significant enough to cause problems, but like you said you have to decide for yourself how to correct the problem, just trying to help, not push something you don't want to try.
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  7. #32
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    ? Leave it. It shows you actually ride your bike.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    Its hard to imagine moving your cleats so they are creating a gap of a couple millimeters from the heel to the crank would be significant enough to cause problems, but like you said you have to decide for yourself how to correct the problem, just trying to help, not push something you don't want to try.
    I recognize and appreciate that you were trying to help.

    It's fair to wonder if it would really matter if I changed my float by whatever would be required to fix the rub. I have tried cleats positioned where there was not heel rub 10ish years ago and it didn't work for me. But that was long ago and I may have been missing by alot whereas like you say I only need to miss by the slightest amount.

    The bottom line is am having no problems with this heel rub (other than the heel rub wear) and slapping some nail polish or tape to address that no problem so I don't see a reason I'd want to take a chance, however light it may be, and tinker with cleat placement that I'm very happy and ache free with.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by mackgoo View Post
    ? Leave it. It shows you actually ride your bike.
    Why would I care about that?

    The fact it's moving with me on it might already be showing that to anyone it would matter to (people I ride and race with).

    Or do you mean at a store or coffee shop. Are there people out there checking for heel rub and suspecting I got dressed up in spandex and took the bike there with a car if they don't see wear? I can live with it if that's what an absence of wear will say to them.

    Or do you mean at home? Pretty sure anyone who comes into my apartment knows I ride my bikes. I suppose a repair man or some dude like that wouldn't know. I can't imagine he'd care nor I about if my bike looks used or not to them.

  10. #35
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    Beausage.

    Honest wear is a thing of beauty, not to be confused with abuse.
    Too old to ride plastic

  11. #36
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    I think what some have already said and I would say is that you wouldn't be changing your cleat angle or your fore/aft cleat position, rather move the cleat inboard so that the shoe's heel has to move somewhat away from the crank as the shoe does.

    Consider this. If your shoe is clipping the crank every revolution or most revolutions, perhaps just when standing, then you are not putting forth your most efficient stroke. You may even realize an improvement in performance if the adjustment can stop you from brushing e crank.

  12. #37
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    I don't think these guys know what duck toed means, really!
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKSki View Post
    I think what some have already said and I would say is that you wouldn't be changing your cleat angle or your fore/aft cleat position, rather move the cleat inboard so that the shoe's heel has to move somewhat away from the crank as the shoe does.

    Consider this. If your shoe is clipping the crank every revolution or most revolutions, perhaps just when standing, then you are not putting forth your most efficient stroke. You may even realize an improvement in performance if the adjustment can stop you from brushing e crank.
    That's effectively changing q-factor, widening my stance, or however you want to phrase it it's a change. I would have thought someone with otherwise tender knees not having any issues with current cleat position not wanting to move them would be easily understandable but whatever.

    I may not be correct but I'm pretty sure I have a better idea of my most efficient pedal stroke as compared to a stranger on the internet who's never seen me and I believe it is how I'm set up now. (I seriously doubt the friction from brushing the crank is impacting efficiency if that's what you mean)

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    I don't think these guys know what duck toed means, really!
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pronation_of_the_foot

    Just in case reading isn't their thing, a picture is worth 1,000 words:
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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    I don't think these guys know what duck toed means, really!
    And another doesn't know the difference between a toes and feet.

  16. #41
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    Two options, helicopter tape or don't worry about it. Anything else means some sort of change to your position, but you, and your knees, already know that.
    Too old to ride plastic

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    Two options, helicopter tape or don't worry about it. Anything else means some sort of change to your position, but you, and your knees, already know that.
    I'm glad someone gets it.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    Two options, helicopter tape or don't worry about it. Anything else means some sort of change to your position, but you, and your knees, already know that.
    Bingo!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    My knees are such that I probably couldn't play 5 min. of basketball, but I can ride about 10,000 miles a year without any issues as set up now ........
    This says DO NOT TOUCH THAT CLEAT POSITION! As I said before, new crank arms are way cheaper than new knees. Some here still don't get it. Oh well.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    I'm glad someone gets it.
    Tape on my crank would bother me more than some rub.

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