Trouble removing stuck headset - Page 2
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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sol View Post
    Before I do anything stupid (first time doing this) what would be the best way to remove a stuck headset?

    I did manage to get the bottom bearing out, but the cup is still stuck in the frame.

    On the top, both the bearing and cup are stuck.

    I did put some oil and now I am waiting to do its job before I start tapping with a hammer and a blunt object.



    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    Just go to HD and get a pipe, cut it just like the one posted, spread it and hit on it with a hammer. If you have tools, if not, just get that one for $34. It will be worth it.
    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Yes, but not just a pipe. You're not gonna wanna slit steel pipe.
    Electrical conduit can work. Or copper pipe.

    But you can get a non-Park tool for $18.
    https://www.amazon.com/CyclingDeal-B.../dp/B005KWRIJO
    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Not inside diameter of the head tube. Inside diameter of the cups. You gotta fit it through the cup.
    But you can't slit PVC and flare it out like the park tool, it won't stay flared. So essentially you got a plastic stick. Which is no different than "using a piece of spruce to gently tap around to release it"
    You are correct... I just read the OP and miss-read it. I thought he already got one side out... but it was the bearing that were removed
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  2. #27
    What the what???
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    I'm copying this from a different thread. It has the list of parts you need to make your own headset press for about $20 in parts. I didn't know if it would work when I wrote the original post, but it worked perfectly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Opus51569 View Post
    In preparation for the headset, I took a trip to the hardware store for a DIY headset press:

    1 piece of 1/2” threaded rod
    2 copper female adapters (labeled 3/4” X 1”, but they measure 1 1/2” at the widest point)
    8 fender washers (1/2” X 2”)
    2 nylon washers
    2 nuts (1/2”-20, coarse thread)

    The copper adapters, in theory, are supposed to help hold the headset cups square as they’re pressed in. We’ll see how it goes. The total was about $20 because I already had the threaded rod. I could probably have an LBS do it for that price, but if this works I’ll have it to use on other bikes down the road as well.


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  3. #28
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Opus51569 View Post

    I didn't know if it would work when I wrote the original post, but it worked perfectly.
    If using this type of press, a tip is to only press in 1 bearing/cup at a time. Then flip and do the other side.
    It's much much easier trying to keep 1 bearing/cup square.
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  4. #29
    Sol
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    That is exactly the type of press I have minus the copper female adapters. 1 side at the time is a good idea.
    Last edited by Sol; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:12 AM.

  5. #30
    Sol
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    1 last thing:



    I am having trouble removing what I assume is hardened grease. I throw everything at it, but its hard as a rock.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sol View Post
    That is exactly the type of press I have minus the copper female adapters. 1 side at the time is a good idea.
    The copper adapters help to hold the headset cups in place while you tighten. Having two of them means you can tighten one side at a time without having to flip the tool. But it sounds like you know what you're doing.
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  7. #32
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    Now you are in over your head!
    I'm going to forgo offering options, as these guys are picking on me!
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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Opus51569 View Post
    The copper adapters help to hold the headset cups in place while you tighten. Having two of them means you can tighten one side at a time without having to flip the tool. But it sounds like you know what you're doing.
    There probable is no reason to flip. Any tension in that unit is going to be expressed at both ends simultaneously, unless you're stating one end is square and the other is questionable.
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  9. #34
    Sol
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    Lets just say there are different ways to do 1 thing.

    I know, need to get those copper, so that they hold the cup from the inside and outside, so it gets in nicely.

    I was just thinking that if I use the washer only on the opposite site, I can center everything more precisely, since that way the whole jig aligns on a known flat surface.

    What about that hardened grease?

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sol View Post
    1 last thing:



    I am having trouble removing what I assume is hardened grease. I throw everything at it, but its hard as a rock.
    Pretty sure that is epoxy and you're proving yourself less and less able to do this job by the minute.
    #promechaniclife

  11. #36
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    Don't worry about the grease if your taking the bottom race off.
    I don't think it's grease, looks like some plastic retaining band, why I don't know. If you get the race off, you can cut that plastic off with a utility knife.
    Take it to a shop, you are over your head.
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdog9 View Post
    Lastly, if investing in the tools on this one isn't worth it, you might just want to take it to the shop. Likely they can do both the headset and BB removal/install for less than the price of the necessary tools. Depending on the shop and how busy they are, could be done while you wait.
    That would be my advice. I just buy a good headset like a Campy Record or Chris King and have the LBS install it.

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