Troubleshooting the Ever Sucking *Clicks and Pops*
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  1. #1
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    Troubleshooting the Ever Sucking *Clicks and Pops*

    Hey All,

    Been pretty frustrated all Summer trying to determine the cause of one particular noise. I have a 2013 Felt Z4 in my stable that I really enjoy riding, but it has what sounds like an audible carbon *pop* or clicking noise when cruising and it's always when I'm at 6 and 12 on the crank arms. When I get off the saddle to crank hard, it goes away. Troubleshooting so far:

    -Installed Wheels MFG BB30 to Hollowtech BB, no change.
    -Removed the Wheels MFG BB and pressed in a FSA sleeve and Ultegra BB, no change.
    -Re-greased pedal axles and threads
    -Found the derailleur hanger bent and fixed it.
    -Found that the LBS installed the chain backwards, fixed that.

    After the last 3 items were done, it rode fine for about 80 miles and now it's back. I'm out of ideas and trying to get other opinions on what it could be. It's running a new 105 5800 group that I installed last year.

    Thanks,

    Lew

  2. #2
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    I'd say it's the seatpost. I had a similar problem with a Tarmac, swore up and down it was coming from the BB. My mechanic pulled it and reinstalled it, problem persisted. When I told him it disappeared when out of the saddle, he pulled the seatpost, re-applied carbon paste, and the sound was gone.

  3. #3
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    Seatpost or seat rails would be my first thought as well.

    If that doesn't work, try to loosen and re-torque the chainring bolts as well.

    I had a really tricky click that got worse over time. Completely disasslmbled the bike down to the (Titanium) frame. Still the click persisted.

    Turned out to be the derailleur hangar. I removed it and applied a small amount of crease between the hangar and the frame and the problem went away.

  4. #4
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    Thanks! I'm going to try re-applying carbon paste to the post next.

  5. #5
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    Welp, a friend of mine was nice to loan me his torque wrench and a tube of carbon paste. Removed the post, added more paste, replaced the post, and torqued the clamp to spec. Also checked the seat post bolt torque and it was under spec. Re-torqued to spec. Will test out later this week and report back!

  6. #6
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    How can you work on it and then not go test ride it?
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  7. #7
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    LOL. My free time is over. Time to spend time with the family.

  8. #8
    What the what???
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweet Lew View Post
    LOL. My free time is over. Time to spend time with the family.
    Your priorities are seriously out-of-whack, but whatever...
    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by opus51569 View Post
    your priorities are seriously out-of-whack, but whatever...
    this!!! ^^^^^
    Gravel Rocks

    Trek Domane
    Niner RLT9 (Gravel Bike)
    Trek Crockett

  10. #10
    [REDACTED]
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    Quote Originally Posted by Opus51569 View Post
    Your priorities are seriously out-of-whack, but whatever...
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Opus51569 again.


    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  11. #11
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    Seat Post/Just seat is the best guess. Look close for frame cracks too.

    "When I get off the saddle to crank hard, it goes away."

    Although that's pretty close to ruling out frame crack and ruling in seat/seat post.

    Pedals/cleats/shoes and that whole interface are another possibility.
    Last edited by Jay Strongbow; 1 Week Ago at 06:18 AM.

  12. #12
    What the what???
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    After the saddle and post, I’d give the stem and bars the same treatment (clean, grease, torque to spec). Out of the saddle causes additional force that might eliminate a little play/noise in the front end.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    The Law of Headwinds states: If the ride out is easy you better leave something in the tank for the turn...

  13. #13
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    Check that your crank isn't hitting the cable end on the way around also if by "at 6 and 12 on the crank arms" you mean the right one is at 12 every time.

  14. #14
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    I had an issue where I could not nail down the clicking/creaking on my Madone. I removed, repacked the existing BB bearings and installed new bearings several times and it would be good for a short time but come back. I figured the frame's BB housing was shot because I was now using the V2 bearings because of very loose fitting standard bearings and would have to send the frame to Trek for repair. Then one day I was leaning on the bike with my chest on the seat and noticed some movement near the cassette, so I rocked the wheel side to side and come to find out the drive side cone nut was loose. I found the problem on a humble. The sound did not seem to come from the rear wheel at all. To think, I was about ready to strip down the bike to send off the frame. Now, I will always check the rear wheel when diagnosing such problems in the future.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    Check that your crank isn't hitting the cable end on the way around also if by "at 6 and 12 on the crank arms" you mean the right one is at 12 every time.
    Correct. Drive side is at 12. Thanks to everyone else with things to check! I'll re-torque the stem bolts. Hope to get on it tomorrow. The weather here in Chicago took a turn for the worse.

    Cheers!

    Lew
    Last edited by Sweet Lew; 1 Week Ago at 04:50 PM.

  16. #16
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    I re-torqued all the stem bolts and took it out for a short ride. So far, so good. I want to stay optimistic, but only time will tell if it comes back. Thanks again for the assistance!

    Cheers,

    Lew

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