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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    While this is true in an absolute sense, it bears little relevance to the issue at hand. Any standard grease will work and will not degrade the plastics used in cable liners or cable coatings.
    Do you know which plastics are used in cable coatings and housing liners? What is a "standard grease"
    Folks may want to peek at this document below if they want a more definitive explanation on grease compatibility with plastics. Also beware of "typical grease" and many rubber compounds.

    There are some very bad combinations, and many safe ones. Without knowing exactly what plastic and what grease is involved, I could not tell anyone "it's safe".

    What is safe, for me, is to use what the manufacturer of the cable system recommends.

    https://www.ecllube.com/resources-fo...20Plastics.pdf

  2. #27
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    I usually do my Dura Ace cables every 2-2.5k. Only ever seen one strand frayed but I ride mostly flat terrain and might not shift as much as you. Even though I donít see fray, shift performance degrades by this point.

  3. #28
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    Here's another 2 page overview that discusses "Lubricants for control cables"
    and talks about that applications special requirements. Almost all their recommended lubes use PTFE
    https://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/...rol_cables.pdf
    Nyeís fluorocarbon gels, for example, incorporate PTFE which creates a surface with a very low coefficient of friction and aids in supporting medium and heavily loaded cables to reduce wear.

    We also offer greases for push-pull cables. They feature a unique combination of silicone oils and PTFE gelling agents which provide excellent cable wetting, very low friction, and load-carrying capabilities.



  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisthebeave View Post
    I usually do my Dura Ace cables every 2-2.5k. Only ever seen one strand frayed but I ride mostly flat terrain and might not shift as much as you. Even though I donít see fray, shift performance degrades by this point.
    2-2.5k??? That's not even half a year for me. Not feeling it.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z'mer View Post
    Do you know which plastics are used in cable coatings and housing liners? What is a "standard grease"
    Folks may want to peek at this document below if they want a more definitive explanation on grease compatibility with plastics. Also beware of "typical grease" and many rubber compounds.

    There are some very bad combinations, and many safe ones. Without knowing exactly what plastic and what grease is involved, I could not tell anyone "it's safe".

    What is safe, for me, is to use what the manufacturer of the cable system recommends.

    https://www.ecllube.com/resources-fo...20Plastics.pdf
    I just use white silicone (the kind they use for machines in the food industry). Safe and nontoxic, no odorless, and very decent lubrication. I stay away from these "automotive" grease because of their smell and toxicity.

  6. #31
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aclinjury View Post
    2-2.5k??? That's not even half a year for me. Not feeling it.
    You'll get a feeling for how long yours will last after they do start to fray, then replace them based on that mileage.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    You'll get a feeling for how long yours will last after they do start to fray, then replace them based on that mileage.
    I put in around 10k-12k/yr spread out between 3 bikes primarily (fourth bike is a little bit of a trainer queen so no count). So what I do is buy a roll of "generic" Jagwire shift housing and a boatload of stainless steel shift cables. For grease, I use food-grade silicone. Honestly, I cannot tell the difference between the Dura Ace slickity-slick cables the generic stainless steel cable with silicone. Because i bought these stainless cables in bulk on ebay for cheap (like $1 per cable), I usually change them out yearly, not because they start to fray, but more like I just want to tinker with my bike. This approach saves me the worry of having to examine the cables, because when in doubt, throw in a new cable for $1 bux.

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