Indepent Fabrications Selling Price
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  1. #1
    jrd
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    Indepent Fabrications Selling Price

    I just became the owner of an IF Planet X steel cross bike, (ebay item 170003397814). Its a 56 cm frame with the standard geometry IF offers. I'm looking at getting into cross but the frame fits a little too small for me. I was considering selling just the frame and keeping the compnents for the next build. Its a few years old and has been ridden very lightly (it seems at least).

    Any thoughts on a selling price? The same frame custom from IF is 1750. Thanks.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrd
    the frame fits a little too small for me. I was considering selling just the frame and keeping the compnents for the next build. Its a few years old and has been ridden very lightly (it seems at least).
    How small do you mean by a little too small? How tall are you?

    First, ditch the Brooks if you're racing. Mud and water will kill it. I'd also be suspect of remounting on the wrong spot.

    Now, about selling the frameset ... You might want to try trading it to someone. Put out a classified here for a trade (I did the same thing for a mtb front sus fork a few years ago and was successful). Do the same for Craig's List in your area. You can set the add up for sale or trade -- only trade for an IF or other high zoot frameset of your choice. Offer the frameset with the headset. It adds value (psychological I think) and you won't have to take off the races. Expect a price of about 50% or less of the full value.
    Pro rep, yo!

  3. #3
    jrd
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    thanks. great advice.

  4. #4
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    Those steel ones in a common size like that seem to go for 8-900 or so if in very nice shape, they tend to get a decent price on ebay.

  5. #5
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    are you sure it is a 56? i have a 54 (standard geometry) and it has a longish 57.5 cm top tube. it fits me and i am 6'1...

    what is the top tube length on yours?

  6. #6
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    Yes, what's the TT length?

    What's the seat tube lenght center to center. That really looks the way my old 54 used to look. Got any more pictures?
    Get this thing off my head!!!!!
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  7. #7
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    p lo, you're 6'1" and you ride a 54?!

    I'm 6'2" and I ride a 62 crosscheck. I can't help but think that either you have some uncanny dimensions, or a MAJOR affinity for little frames.

  8. #8
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    IF frames...

    at least the cross frames have a high BB. So yes, I'm 6'1" as well and rode a 54.
    Get this thing off my head!!!!!
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  9. #9
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    the I.F. has a slightly sloping top tube and they size them as actual length not "virtual" like some companies. plus they have really long top tubes. 54 has a 57.5 top tube. by 58 cm Cannondale rode bike has the same tt length.

    actually i think the only people i have ever heard riding bikes that big (60+) are more in the 6'4 + range

  10. #10
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    Hello, this is your Dad speaking. No disrespect intended but a reality check is in order. IF makes a wonderful frame- I'd love to own one. But for a bike that may have seen 3 years seasons of racing, you paid too much and you're likely to take a financial hit now because it doesnt even fit you. Selling off the frame for $800? I would be very surprised if you got anything near that price for frame/fork with or without the headset. Even if you do, you just paid $600 for some used components that have seen 3 seasons of cross racing in mud. You got caught up in the excitement of an Ebay bidding war, and you didn't really know what you needed size-wise, or what you were getting. Seriously, take a deep breath next time and do your homework. Cross bikes do not fit like road bikes. Ebay is a gamble when you want a serious race bike, ie when the fit is really important, unless you know your sh:t. It's more than just top tube length and finding the right stem, especially with cross bikes, the design varies a lot between models, touring bikes, MTBs, crit bikes can all come with canti bosses and marketed as "cylocross" bikes- beware if you know nothing about geometry and what you want when buying without trying because size descriptions are all over the map. The above advice sight unseen about sizing- geez it's flying thick in here. Ignore it. Your best advice at this point is you, and maybe help from someone who knows cross (not a roadie or MTB guy who's never crossed) , who can see YOU on the bike- not some dude who's about your height and has a few C races behind him. Seriously at this point, I would sell the whole bike and benefit from more overheated bidding, or offer it to the second highest bidder "unofficially" and limit your losses. Then do a little homework on sizing, and some learned lessons from your experience and start again. Unless the components are pristine, I wouldnt want them for the kind of money you paid, especially coming from a cross bike that's seen some action. I'm a cheap SOB and I buy used components too, but you're much better off finding some stuff that's been on a road bike, even if its lower end like 105 but newer. Shifters especially. Those used STI's may work great all lubed up on for your Summer test rides. But I've had the experience (twice!) of used shifters that work fine in warm weather but turn miserable and don't shift reliably when the temperature turns colder- ie cyclocross season. Anyway, unless you really are confident in your understanding of frame design a little better, and have a bike already dialed in for what feels good for YOU in a cross frame, stay out of Ebay, especially for the high end stuff that everybody wants and will pay mucho $$$ for. Although it's a great place sometimes to find something inexpensive that will work, (with compromises) just to have a cheap bike for commuting that you maybe do an occasional race with to get started. But for god's sake don't take fit comparisons in an online forum filled with mostly newbies as reliable advice.

  11. #11
    jrd
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    Hello, this is your ego speaking. Your candor seems helpful at points and highly unnecessary at others. I appreciate the help from everyone. Mistake or not, I'm stuck with the frame and components I just purchased. I'm looking for the most profitable route to get out of the deal. I welcome anyone with some constructive direction to offer.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZenNMotion
    IF makes a wonderful frame- I'd love to own one. But for a bike that may have seen 3 years seasons of racing, you paid too much
    Yeah. A steel frame like that might only have another dozen years of racing left in it.

    Ebay is a gamble when you want a serious race bike, ie when the fit is really important, unless you know your sh:t. It's more than just top tube length and finding the right stem, especially with cross bikes, the design varies a lot between models, touring bikes, MTBs, crit bikes can all come with canti bosses and marketed as "cylocross" bikes- beware if you know nothing about geometry and what you want when buying without trying because size descriptions are all over the map.
    Yeah, IF probably makes some sort of half-arsed cross bike that's mostly fit for touring. And I know for a fact that no one around here knows anything about what bikes are the real deal for racing. After all, we're just a bunch of C racers who've done a couple races on our junkers.

    Although it's [Ebay] a great place sometimes to find something inexpensive that will work, (with compromises) just to have a cheap bike for commuting that you maybe do an occasional race with to get started.
    Yeah, I didn't manage to pick up a Merckx Alu-Cross (almost as I bought it except I swapped the Velomax Circuits for DA/Reflex tubbies and made money on the deal) and a Redline Conquest (lots of mods from original but I expected that) on Ebay for good deals.

    But for god's sake don't take fit comparisons in an online forum filled with mostly newbies as reliable advice.
    I've been racing for three seasons in the Pac NW -- about 30 races. At least two thirds of the races I've been in have had field sizes of over 50 riders. I've raced C, B, and Masters B. I've been in the top ten more than a couple times and have grabbed defeat from the jaws of victory on an occasion or two.

    We've got quite a few experienced racers who contribute to this forum including wunlap to go, atpjunkie DCPX, The General, jermeyb, Mosovich, Zank (who!!??), kajukembo, and I'm sure lots of others I've missed.

    So take a chill pill and leave the sanctimonius stuff at the office.
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  13. #13
    Kant phuckin sphell
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    Thats a great frame.

    Despite what others have said here, I think you would be surprised to see what that frame alone would bring on ebay.

    What is the serial # it should have the frame size among other info in it.

    IF is a great bike and as long as the bottom of the seat tube is not rusted, because they are sealed, it should last forever.

  14. #14

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    Call IF with the serial number and find out what the exact specifications are of it. Then, figure out what size you ACTUALLY need, before deciding to part it out and sell the frameset off. I'm a current and previous IF owner, and I'll tell you the real deal - that frame will ride for ages. Ignore the guy ranting about 3 seasons of use. I had 6 under my last one, and I sold it for $600.

  15. #15
    jrd
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    The frame is on eBay for the first go at sale. Yes... the opening bid is high, but its the first shot and relisting is cheap. Check out the masurements.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripped
    Yeah. A steel frame like that might only have another dozen years of racing left in it.

    Long may she fly! I have an early 90's steel Gazelle that still sees race action. Steel really can be made into magic for cyclocross. I'd love to take that IF for a spin, never been on one.



    Yeah, IF probably makes some sort of half-arsed cross bike that's mostly fit for touring. And I know for a fact that no one around here knows anything about what bikes are the real deal for racing. After all, we're just a bunch of C racers who've done a couple races on our junkers.

    I got into a 3 lap duel for the last podium place for a Masters race with a guy who brazed some canti bosses on his straight gauge 80s Fuji. Didn't slow him down much. He tripped on the final barrier but still managed to catch me at the line. Humble pie for me, but then I heard he gave up the bike thing to take up running instead... what a waste of talent!




    Yeah, I didn't manage to pick up a Merckx Alu-Cross (almost as I bought it except I swapped the Velomax Circuits for DA/Reflex tubbies and made money on the deal) and a Redline Conquest (lots of mods from original but I expected that) on Ebay for good deals.

    Hey, I gotta basement full of Ebay deals. But they take time and patience and luck. Easy to get carried away in the moment, I got stung a few times too. Wanna hear a funny one? Two pairs of pretty NOS Sugino 175mm 110bcd captain (front) cranks made for a tandem with 38t rings, 30 bucks for two sets of cranks. Perfect for cross cranks whatta deal right? Except I forgot that tandem cranks are threaded opposite for the pedals. So I either build a bike with the drivetrain on the left (kinda cool if you wanna be "different") or I wrap the pedal spindles with a bunch of plumbers tape and hope they don't loosen during a race. Need a nice crankset, cheap? Hope you got that Merckx in Orange...



    I've been racing for three seasons in the Pac NW -- about 30 races. At least two thirds of the races I've been in have had field sizes of over 50 riders. I've raced C, B, and Masters B. I've been in the top ten more than a couple times and have grabbed defeat from the jaws of victory on an occasion or two.

    That's great, I'm on the East Coast but want to do a few in Oregon this year, Maybe I'll see you on the Masters line, I've been doing A's for a few years, but my lack of road results may kick me back to B's with the new category rule changes this year. I also did a season in the UK, and got my ass kicked for a season in Czech Rep. So like you, a passionate (rabid?) cross fan with still much to learn and suffering in Summer heat waiting for the real season to start- maybe that makes us grumpy old men.

    We've got quite a few experienced racers who contribute to this forum including wunlap to go, atpjunkie DCPX, The General, jermeyb, Mosovich, Zank (who!!??), kajukembo, and I'm sure lots of others I've missed.

    So take a chill pill and leave the sanctimonius stuff at the office.
    First, I never intended to insult or upset anyone, so accept an apology and allow me some credit for good intentions that were miscommunicated. I understand that there is a whole range of experience represented in here, but I think we can agree that most questions are asked by relative newbies and often responded to by others with limited experience, particularly with regard to fit issues that poorly serves someone who's investing a lot of money in a mail order frame without enough information. And the back and forth "how tall are you" stuff seemed headed in that direction so that's what I responded to. Sanctimonious? Sorry. Wasn't intended that way. Blunt, yes. Blunt works in an online forum, the nuance gets lost in the medium. I never said anything negative about the bike, it's a great bike for the right person, only that it doesn't fit, so that makes it an unfortunate choice. Buying sight unseen on Ebay is a risk when you can't sit on it first, especially without knowledge of the frame geo/measurements. After all, this was likely a custom frame made for someone, knowing the TT and ST is not enough, especially when spending this kind of money. I did notice, whether I had anything to do with it or not, that the bike was parted out and all for sale, probably the best move to limit the financial loss, and possibly even come a little ahead.
    Cheers and beers to all, cyclocross is too small a world, we need to stick together or just give it up and spend bitter Saturday afternoons arguing about Carbon vs. Ti in smoke filled bars.
    Last edited by ZenNMotion; 07-11-2006 at 08:42 AM.

  17. #17
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    Good luck with the sale, apologies for unintended offense. If it doesnt sell, you might consider a good Ebay seller strategy of putting a low opening minimum to encourage a bidding war, and keep your reserve price. Buyers don't often like being the first in with a high bid, even if its reasonable. Price seems to pretty consistently go significantly higher in the end when a bunch of people seem interested even with BS bids under the reserve, which is exactly what happened when you bid on it yourself. If you get no action for a few days, consider dropping the opening bid price and adding a reserve of what you really want/can sell it for. This is just from someone who's watched a lot of bikes on Ebay. Google around, and you'll see it's a fairly well considered strategy by experienced sellers. The only real advantage of a high opening bid is to keep your options open for stopping the listing, which you can do if nobody has bid and you sell the frame locally on craigs list or something.

  18. #18
    jrd
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    thanks, we'll see what the next few days bring and go from there.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZenNMotion
    Buyers don't often like being the first in with a high bid, even if its reasonable. Price seems to pretty consistently go significantly higher in the end when a bunch of people seem interested even with BS bids under the reserve, which is exactly what happened when you bid on it yourself. If you get no action for a few days, consider dropping the opening bid price and adding a reserve of what you really want/can sell it for. This is just from someone who's watched a lot of bikes on Ebay. Google around, and you'll see it's a fairly well considered strategy by experienced sellers.
    Good advice here. You're not going to get any real serious action until the last day or two anyway. Starting low will get a few people 'emotionally' involved that might not have been in the mix with a higher starting price.

    Everyone likes a bargain -- even if it doesn't turn out that way in the end.
    Pro rep, yo!

  20. #20
    jrd
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    nonpaying bidder. ("wrong size for husband"). if you're interested in the frame please make me an offer. thanks again for all the help.

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