Moving from MTB to Cyclo, what to expect?
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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2005

    Moving from MTB to Cyclo, what to expect?

    So my new bike should be coming in on Thursday. I've ridden mountain bikes all my life. These days I'm pretty much only riding fire roads. I used to ride more technical single track and deeper downhills but I had a couple of bad falls and feel like I'm done with that stuff.

    That's why I wanted to get into cyclo. But just in terms of riding, what sort of differences can I expect? I'm going from full suspension to none. The last time I rode a no suspension bike was in high school. So obviously the ride will be harsher and I expect to be out of the saddle more.

    I imagine I can't attack downhill turns like I can on my mountainbike. I'll probably take those much slower.

    I also figure I need to stay on the top bars more since this will keep me more upright like my mountain biking position till I get used to a more forward position.

    That's all I can think of. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    What you will find is that you will be hooked after the first race!!

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: fleck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    it doesn't sound like he is looking to race...

    what you'll find... Tire pressure is important. this is your 'suspension'

    brake earlier.
    CX brakes slow you not stop you. When they start squeeling and causing the fork to vibrate, toe in the leading edge of the pad.

    buy cheep bar tape. You'll go through it a lot. Learn to wrap it tight. Keep extra at home.

    use good gloves. you will feel every vibration and rock under you. For longer rides, consider wearing DH style gloves.

    take extra tubes AND a patch kit. you're a lot more likely to pinch flat a CX tube then a MTB tube. (1-2 TBS of Stans sealant injected in standard tubes adds a lot of life and is very cost friendly per tube)

    keep your brifters snug but not too tight. you don't want them to move while you're ridding but you do want them to move when you take a digger and drive them into the ground. They are expensive to replace.

    Buy a 3rd Eye Chain Watcher. you can rig your own but for 10$ why?

    thats all i can think of for now...

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