New ultra budget build...
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  1. #1
    Nick!
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    New ultra budget build...

    I am getting excited, my frame gets here on Monday. I realize that the season is basically over but thats ok because it give me a long time to piece a bike together.

    I found a used Scattante frame listed under collectables/lamps/other on ebay and snagged it for $80 out the door. I am realizing that a fork is going to be possibly my biggest expense for this bike.

    As far as wheels go I a have set of XT non disc hubs I scored for 7 bucks on ebay a few years ago. I'm contemplating IRO Cold Fusion rims. I have enough spokes to build like 10 pairs of wheels (another stupid ebay deal). I have a set of Huchinson CX tires that I randomly picked up years ago.

    Drive train is looking like a Shimano/Campy mut build because I like to do things different. Veloce controls with possibly an old 600 or 950 XTR short cage and whatever FD is cheap. Haven't decided on 8 or 9sp, but I guess it doesn't really matter.

    Rest of the build...
    Bars/stem: PRO Vibe 7s (will be by far the nicest parts on the bike...except for the fork)
    Seat Post/saddle: Control Tech I already have/TBD
    Crank: TBD hopefully I can score a set of newer but beat Shimano w/o rings or a Gossamer
    Brakes: TBD but leaning towards TRP 720 or Shorty.

    I guess that basically covers the major parts of the bike save for the fork. Any thoughts or advice on any/all of it? Especially the fork...

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    picks of frame when you get it.

  3. #3
    Old, slow, and fat.
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    If you're planning on racing, that Control Tech seatpost may not be the best bet. Assuming that its one of the older ones with the rotating head/clamping mechanism. DAMHIK that if you land on it just right (wrong?!) that the nose of your saddle starts to point sky high.

    You're going to have to re-space the rear hub down to 132.5 at the minimum. 130mm would be better. May need a different axle depending on your frame.

    Otherwise it sounds like one of my builds. I tend to toss stuff on and upgrade as I go. Eventually it all ends up Red or D/A but it doesn't start that way.

    M
    I've moved back to NoVA. PLEASE change the weather!

  4. #4
    Nick!
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    I do plan on racing it. The post is a 3a I think. Its just a simple one bolt post.

    I haven't been able to find to much info on the frame spacing but I saw 132.5 floated somewhere. Either way the hub has a 5mm spacer on the non drive side and then I could just dremel the axle down.

    I want to do a set of tubs at some point also.

    Pictures for sure.

  5. #5
    Nick!
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    Update. Just scored an 6500 Ultegra FD for 5.25. Not bad. Anybody have a 31.8 clamp they want to trade for a 34.9?

    Edit. Add a Gossamer crank to the list. 25 bucks will need to find a 46t ring.

    I went and dug out a 6200 series 600 RD. Cleaned up pretty nice and should work well. Also the Control Tech seat post.

    This is coming together a lot quicker than expected...
    Last edited by yellowjeep; 12-18-2011 at 05:39 PM.

  6. #6
    Nick!
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    Crank should be here today so that's cool.

    I am thinking about splurging a bit on the rims since I got the hubs so cheap. After reading CXmag's series on tubeless I am thinking that is the way I want to go because I don't have the funds or the room for 3 or 4 set of tubs.

    Any recommendations for rims?

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    FYI - the rear spacing on the Scattante is 130. I've owned 2 of them.

  8. #8
    Nick!
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisdrum View Post
    FYI - the rear spacing on the Scattante is 130. I've owned 2 of them.
    I have the hub sitting in the frame right now and it went in with minimal effort. Less than the 130mm hub in my 126 spaced road bike. In any case there is a 5mm spacer on the hub that I am probably going to take out so I can swap wheels to the road bike as well.
    Last edited by yellowjeep; 12-21-2011 at 12:10 PM.

  9. #9
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    I'm a bit surprised. But maybe I am not remembering accurately. I never did try to put anything but a "road" hub in there.

  10. #10
    Nick!
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    Maybe I am just used to having to wedge the hub in my road bike but I stand corrected. I took out the 5mm spacer and it dropped right in. Just need to hack a few mm off the axle and that is sorted.

  11. #11
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    I've been using the Campy/Shimano drivetrain and it works great. I have the Campy Veloce with Ultegra RD (got a great deal on it) and running an 8 speed sram cassette. It works as if it was designed that way. I like to do things a little differently too so I thought I would have to play with it to get it to work right. It just works and is so much cheaper especially with the 8 speed cassette and chain.

    Sounds like your bike is coming together fast.

  12. #12
    Nick!
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    Quote Originally Posted by climbbikesurf View Post
    I've been using the Campy/Shimano drivetrain and it works great. [...]

    Sounds like your bike is coming together fast.
    Thats exactly what I want to hear .

    The quickness of the build is directly correlated to the decision to run the mixed group.

    Tracking down 46t chain rings is proving more difficult that I thought though.

    Sorry still no pictures because by the time I get home from work its dark and there is nowhere in my apartment that is good for taking pictures.

  13. #13
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    Wow a 46? That's too high for me. I have a 44 and rarely use it. Sadly, I'm in my 34 mostly but with my 12-26 cassette I am pretty well covered.

  14. #14
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    Agree with Climbbikesurf. Personally a 46 was too tall for me. Heck, I was using it in crits, but not in cross. A 44 or even a 42, depending on what you are running as your small ring will probably be sufficient. I run a 38 single ring and have never been in a situation yet where I was hoping for an extra gear.

  15. #15
    More Cowbell!
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisdrum View Post
    Agree with Climbbikesurf. Personally a 46 was too tall for me. Heck, I was using it in crits, but not in cross. A 44 or even a 42, depending on what you are running as your small ring will probably be sufficient. I run a 38 single ring and have never been in a situation yet where I was hoping for an extra gear.
    Back when I was running gears, I loved the 44/38 combo. Usually I could use one or the other and not shift the front the whole race.
    Pro rep, yo!

  16. #16
    Nick!
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    Good points. I am used to smashing around a 53 on the road. But thinking about the way I ride my mountain bike I spend a most of my time in the middle ring on the trails. These are the same trails the CX bike is likely to see some practice action. Maybe a 44 is the way to go. 44/39?

  17. #17
    Nick!
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    Trying to order rims from IRO. I get all the way though to the screen where I should be able to submit my order...but there is no "Submit Order" button. Puzzling. Anybody care to see if they can replicate the problem?

  18. #18
    Nick!
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    Alright long overdue for an update.

    First apparently IRO is no more so I built my XT hubs (respaced and cut down) in to Campy Omega Strada Hardox tubulars. I had previously had 7403 Dura Ace hubs laced to this rims but realized that the proprietary freehub body was shot before I ever had a chance to use them to much. Even if they are not ideal for CX its better than them not getting any use. I basically have everything else to complete the build either in hand or in the mail.

    Here is a run down
    Frame: Scattante CX
    Fork: Ritchey Cross Comp
    Shifters: Campy Veloce 10sp
    FD: 6500 Ultegra w/ homemade pulley
    RD: 6208 Shimano 600
    Crankset/BB: FSA Gossamer 46/39 (Stronglight big ring)/Tiagra 4500 Hollowtech II
    Cassette: Sram PG850 11-28
    Chain: KMC X8.99
    Brakes: Origin 8 Pro Force Cantilever. Probably going to pop some Kool Stop salmons in them.
    Headset: Cane Creek 40
    Bars/stem: Pro Vibe 7s aluminum
    Seatpost: Control Tech Team Issue 3a
    Saddle: Sella Italia Concor for now
    Pedals: 770 XT
    Wheels: 750 XT hubset laced to Campy Omega Strada Hardox tubs. Wheelsmith 14g 3x front and rear.
    Tires: Vittoria Cross XG 220 tpi

    I think that about covers it. I still need Campy inner cables a cable hanger and bar tape. The fork I ordered is an NOS Carbon Cross Comp from around 09 w/o fender eyelets and I am not sure if it has a hole in the crown. If it does I will run a fork mount cable hanger.

    Off to read about gluing cross tubs.

  19. #19
    Nick!
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    Snapped a quick picture, please excuse the mess


  20. #20
    Old, slow, and fat.
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    Not bad.

    Now just ride it like ya stole it 'cause ya pretty much did!



    M
    I've moved back to NoVA. PLEASE change the weather!

  21. #21
    Nick!
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    Quote Originally Posted by MShaw View Post
    Not bad.

    Now just ride it like ya stole it 'cause ya pretty much did!



    M
    I am starting to feel that way. Tires came in today and instead of beeing the 220 tpi pair I was expecting they are actually 290 tpi. Not bad for $41 for the pair.

    A note on the brakes....

    Another good day of getting parts in.


    The brakes were a little bit of a gamble. I couldn't find any review of the Origin 8's but I figured that the EuroX/Spooky/Frogglegs style brakes are generally the same and pretty straight forward and these had cartridge pads to boot. When I first got them I noticed one of the springs was way shorter and different shaped than the others and cause a very noticeable difference in tension. Brian from Niagara Cycle Work as well as who ever runs Origin 8's twitter account were extremely awesome. Brian sent out an new, complete small parts packet no questions asked. Origin 8 was also very responsive and checked in to make sure everything was going well. Seriously can't say enough good things about both companies right now.

  22. #22
    Nick!
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    It rides really really nice, the fit is about spot on. I think I have been riding frames a size too small up until about a year ago.

    The shifting works amazing well. I actually got in to a semi heated discussion at a LBS yesterday about the set up, some people just don't like thinking out side the box I guess. That is part of the reason I avoid most of them but I've digressed.

    The clincher wheelset for this bike should be in Lawrence tomorrow along with black tires that are less visually offensive. This silver set will go back to the road bike. I am resisting the urge to glue up the tubulars until it gets closer to the fall.

    White tape may have been a mistake.

  23. #23
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    I have buddy who has been racing CX for years, and has no qualms on spending... he runs the origin 8's on his carbon redline, scandium redline, redline conquest pro, and his SS redline. He really likes them. Only complaint is with all frogleg type brakes, adjusting toe is hard with the post type pad

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowjeep View Post

    I still need Campy inner cables a cable hanger and bar tape.


    Off to read about gluing cross tubs.
    if you have spare shimano cables and some time, you can just file the heads down... then they are free!!!

  25. #25
    Nick!
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam_mac84 View Post
    I have buddy who has been racing CX for years, and has no qualms on spending... he runs the origin 8's on his carbon redline, scandium redline, redline conquest pro, and his SS redline. He really likes them. Only complaint is with all frogleg type brakes, adjusting toe is hard with the post type pad

    Mine have adjustable posts so toe in is no big deal.

    About 95% sure these are exactly the same thing
    VO Adjustable Cantilever Shoes w/ VO Squeal Free Pads - Pads, Cables & Parts - Brakes & Parts - Components

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