Tips for smooth shifting with different cassettes
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  1. #1

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    Tips for smooth shifting with different cassettes

    So I want to put a different geared cassette on my new road wheels (don't really need a 32 tooth gear on the road), but I really don't want to have to mess around with my drailler when I change from road wheels to knobbies and back. The cassette on my "off-road" wheels is a shimano Deore XT (CS-M760) 11-32. I was thinking 11-25 for the road wheels. What is the trick to maintaining smooth shifting with both cassettes. I had a SRAM PG-970 (11-32) cassette laying around so I put that one on last weekend, but in the middle of the cassette I was getting a lot of ghost shifting, particularly when I got out of the saddle to climb a hill.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibsailn
    So I want to put a different geared cassette on my new road wheels (don't really need a 32 tooth gear on the road), but I really don't want to have to mess around with my drailler when I change from road wheels to knobbies and back. The cassette on my "off-road" wheels is a shimano Deore XT (CS-M760) 11-32. I was thinking 11-25 for the road wheels. What is the trick to maintaining smooth shifting with both cassettes. I had a SRAM PG-970 (11-32) cassette laying around so I put that one on last weekend, but in the middle of the cassette I was getting a lot of ghost shifting, particularly when I got out of the saddle to climb a hill.

    Thanks
    When you say lying around, is cassette old as this seems text book explaination for worn casette on newer chain (or vise versa) especially in middle cogs - most commonly used on wide spread casette. Never usually have a problem switching wheels, maybe the odd tweak of limit screws but very rarely, most stuff is similar aged though. Try and match similar worn parts if possible this should help.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by dreww
    When you say lying around, is cassette old as this seems text book explaination for worn casette on newer chain (or vise versa) especially in middle cogs - most commonly used on wide spread casette. Never usually have a problem switching wheels, maybe the odd tweak of limit screws but very rarely, most stuff is similar aged though. Try and match similar worn parts if possible this should help.
    It was actually almost brand new. The wear on the two seemed pretty similar (i.e. no real visible wear on any gears). I flipped the cassettes between wheels this week and if the weather cooperates I will try the cassette that came with the bike (I just bought it a few weeks ago). Maybe the derailer just needs adjusting, but I hadn't noticed it on my two short rides with the original wheels (knobby tires) and XT cassette.

    When you switched wheels, did how did you match cassettes (company, model, or not at all)?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibsailn
    When you switched wheels, did how did you match cassettes (company, model, or not at all)?
    Hmm interesting, I do no specific matching, I've got shimano and sram chains, and shimano, sram and campy cassettes (all 9sp) but like i say all similar wear i.e. within 1000 miles use. Is the bike used? maybe chain is worn, not new sram cassette.

    Barrel adjuster is what will need playing with if problem persists. (knurled nut at end of cable, derailleur end) or maybe inline adjuster on cable near shifter.

  5. #5
    NeoRetroGrouch
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    The trick is in the hub...

    The cassettes (Sh-9) are all spaced the same. If you get the distance from the outside of the lock nut to the first cog teeth the same, then you have the sames starting point. The simple way to do this is to use the same make/model of hubs on all your wheelsets. ( I stick with Shimano 6500.) The hard way is to measure them and start playing with 1mm axle spacers and redishing your wheels.

    TF
    "Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
    Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.

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