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  1. #1
    i like whiskey
    Reputation: innergel's Avatar
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    BB question

    Hello everyone. I'm back again with yet another question re: my SS/Fixie build. I hope I'm not getting too annoying yet.

    I purchased a set of NOS Shimano 600 cranks. They are 42x53 doubles that have a square taper. My question is what spindle length BB do I need to get? I thought I needed a 68x110, but I just read something in the archives that mentioned that I might need a shorter spindle (like a 103 or so) to accommodate the square taper. Is this true?

    Thanks in advance for your replies, and your patience with my questions.

    J.

  2. #2
    Old and Fixed, Moderator
    Reputation: Dave Hickey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by innergel
    Hello everyone. I'm back again with yet another question re: my SS/Fixie build. I hope I'm not getting too annoying yet.

    I purchased a set of NOS Shimano 600 cranks. They are 42x53 doubles that have a square taper. My question is what spindle length BB do I need to get? I thought I needed a 68x110, but I just read something in the archives that mentioned that I might need a shorter spindle (like a 103 or so) to accommodate the square taper. Is this true?

    Thanks in advance for your replies, and your patience with my questions.

    J.
    103mm is for Dura Ace 7410 cranks only. 600 double was somewhere around 111mm or 112mm
    Dave Hickey/ Fort Worth

    My 3Rensho Blog: http://vintage3rensholove.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
    Diesel Engine
    Reputation: Mike Prince's Avatar
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    Sheldon?

    You may want to check www.sheldonbrown.com. If my memory's right, they were selling NOS 600 cranks and recommending a 107mm spindle with it to get the ring in the outer position. Or it may have been that they were selling the crankset with the bb - maybe you can get him to sell you just the bb?

    I have 105 square-taper cranks (first generation) on a 116 mm spindle (what was originally on the frame) and the chainline is perfect with the ring in the inner position. Not sure if this will also apply to the 600's, but I would think that these are pretty similar.

    **added - from Sheldon's web site**

    Special Purchase! Shimano 105 FC-1055 Cranksets $79.95 165 mm or 170 mm

    These are excellent cranks, with Superglide chainrings. The chainrings are round with some special teeth to facilitate shifting, but without the pins and ramps that newer models use.

    The arms have a pearlescent painted finish, rings natural aluminum (stamped.)

    • The 170s come with 42-53 chainrings, plastic wrapped O.E.M. packaging.
    • The 165s come with 42-52 chainrings, in consumer box packaging.
    These use the traditional tapered-square D3H or D5H bottom brackets, 113-115 length. Use a 107 mm bb to line the outer ring position up with a track hub.
    Special Purchase! Shimano 600 EX Biopace Cranksets $99.95 With B.B. 170 mm Only

    These late '80s cranks come with rare Biopace 42/52 chainrings. Set includes traditional cup-and-cone tapered-square bottom bracket, 116 length, British/ISO thread for 68 mm shell.
    Last edited by Mike Prince; 03-04-2004 at 10:06 AM. Reason: I got un-lazy and looked up what I should have in the 1st place...

  4. #4
    Arrogant roadie.....
    Reputation: Dave_Stohler's Avatar
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    Do not try to use biopace rings on a fixed gear!!! Your chain will fall off!
    We are the 801
    We are the central shaft

  5. #5
    Diesel Engine
    Reputation: Mike Prince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_Stohler
    Do not try to use biopace rings on a fixed gear!!! Your chain will fall off!
    No, of course not. Posted that for the BB reference only....

  6. #6

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    Sorry, but...

    if you have a read of http://sheldonbrown.org/bicycle.html you will find that they work quite well for. He says he is running them on at least 2 fixies - one of them a tandem!

    I hope he is right - I am bidding on a set on eBay as we speak!

    Brian.

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    my $.02

    Quote Originally Posted by innergel
    Hello everyone. I'm back again with yet another question re: my SS/Fixie build. I hope I'm not getting too annoying yet.

    I purchased a set of NOS Shimano 600 cranks. They are 42x53 doubles that have a square taper. My question is what spindle length BB do I need to get? I thought I needed a 68x110, but I just read something in the archives that mentioned that I might need a shorter spindle (like a 103 or so) to accommodate the square taper. Is this true?

    Thanks in advance for your replies, and your patience with my questions.

    J.
    the 110 spindle would be recomended if you were running the cranks as a road double, as the factory intended. if you're looking to run it with a single ring for a fixie, and you're using a standard 120mm 'track' hub, you'll *probably* need a 107 for straight chainline, but that's just a guess.

    it could be slightly shorter or longer, but the 110 is almost certainly going to be too long.

    hth,
    -rob

  8. #8
    i like whiskey
    Reputation: innergel's Avatar
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    OK, now I'm really confused

    Quote Originally Posted by surreal
    the 110 spindle would be recomended if you were running the cranks as a road double, as the factory intended. if you're looking to run it with a single ring for a fixie, and you're using a standard 120mm 'track' hub, you'll *probably* need a 107 for straight chainline, but that's just a guess.

    it could be slightly shorter or longer, but the 110 is almost certainly going to be too long.
    -rob
    I just read Sheldon's site again and the table on http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#ultegra suggests a 113. So my assumption is that this is for use with a cassette on the back? The Suzue hub is a standard 120 and I was planning running on the inside position in the front.

    What is the possible problem with running a chainline that is off? Am I losing power or pedaling efficiency or risking throwing the chain, or is it only an asthetic issue? Is there a point, say 5mm for example, that you are increasing your risk of damage because of a bad chainline? Or are you fine up to 5mm and need to adjust after that?

    Man oh man. I need to go back and read some more. Maybe bribe the head wrench at my LBS with some beer and see what he says.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by innergel
    What is the possible problem with running a chainline that is off? Am I losing power or pedaling efficiency or risking throwing the chain, or is it only an asthetic issue?
    Sheldon states " The worse the chainline, the worse the mechanical efficienty of the drive train."

    But you will also shorten considerably the life of your components in a fixed gear chainline due to the extra stress.

    It will also be noisy. The worse the chainline the more noise the drivetrain will make. This is maddening enough to make you want to get it right.

    I have no idea if 5mm is too much though. Seems like you must be able to respace something to get it a little better.

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