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Thread: Handlebar Tape

  1. #51
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    Specialized makes some quality stuff, as does Supacaz. Another less known, quality option is Guee.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rashadabd View Post
    Over eight months and it looks pretty much the same it did when I put it on with minimal wear. I don't ride in a lot of foul weather though and I almost always wear gloves. I have zero complaints.
    How many miles is that?
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  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rashadabd View Post
    I am a Lizards Skins guy. I dismissed it for years as a gimmick, but finally tried it and I am hooked. I am putting it on my new MTB I am building as well.

    It does occur to me from what I've read about Lizard Skin is that I may have received a bad manufacture lot.
    Enough people complained that it appears they took action to address the thin veneer from prematurely peeling.
    I'll clean and lube my chain three to four times a month, but I not down with changing my bar tape because it peeled down to the cloth fabric every month.


    Hey Rash, Thank's for the links a few months ago.
    Last edited by rudge66; 1 Week Ago at 04:33 PM.
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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    It does occur to me from what I've read about Lizard Skin is that I may have received a bad manufacture lot.
    Enough people complained that it appears they took action to address the thin veneer from prematurely peeling.
    I'll clean and lube my chain three to four times a month, but I not down with changing my bar tape because it peeled down to the cloth fabric every month.
    I used the Lizard Skin 2.5 for several years and loved the feel and the grip. But it never lasted. I never had peeling, but it would just wear through on the tops at the bends. Sometimes it started to show in a month. I was also careful not to stretch the tape too much per the instructions.

    One other note on wrapping bars - I never peel off the adhesive covering, I just wrap the bars with it on. Does anyone else do that?

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by ogre View Post
    One other note on wrapping bars - I never peel off the adhesive covering, I just wrap the bars with it on. Does anyone else do that?
    I could see doing that next time I wrap.
    Good idea.
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  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDM View Post
    I use the gel tape, but I think it wears faster and moves around more because it doesn't have an adhesive on the back. I think I'll use the cork tape next time.
    If the tape is slipping, you didn't wrap it tight enough. It doesn't matter if it has an adhesive strip or not.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by ogre View Post
    One other note on wrapping bars - I never peel off the adhesive covering, I just wrap the bars with it on. Does anyone else do that?
    What would be the advantage of doing this?
    "Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital." - Aaron Levenstein.

    "With
    bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."
    -- DCGriz, RBR.





  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    What would be the advantage of doing this?
    Itís just a pain to unroll that strip while wrapping the bars, and you donít have to clean any adhesive residue off the bars. No difference in the big picture but I was wondering if anyone else does.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by ogre View Post
    Itís just a pain to unroll that strip while wrapping the bars, and you donít have to clean any adhesive residue off the bars. No difference in the big picture but I was wondering if anyone else does.
    I always peel the adhesive off the back of bar tape. Its not necessary if you wrap the tape tightly, and it keeps the bars clean.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmf View Post
    I always peel the adhesive off the back of bar tape. Its not necessary if you wrap the tape tightly, and it keeps the bars clean.
    If you stretch cork tape too much, it can tear. Cork gel tape is stretchier, but wrapping too tightly will thin out the tape as it stretches, and you will lose padding.

  11. #61
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    Anyone double wrap, or ever bisect an inner tube for the right feel?

    Sorry, If this veers off topic Lombard, I'd like to know how the tube core works with tape over it.
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  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    Anyone double wrap, or ever bisect an inner tube for the right feel?

    Sorry, If this veers off topic Lombard, I'd like to know how the tube core works with tape over it.
    I've never double wrapped. I usually do enough of an overlap near the hoods which I guess you can say is effectively a double wrap.
    "Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital." - Aaron Levenstein.

    "With
    bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."
    -- DCGriz, RBR.





  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDM View Post
    If you stretch cork tape too much, it can tear. Cork gel tape is stretchier, but wrapping too tightly will thin out the tape as it stretches, and you will lose padding.
    I have wrapped countless bars with Cinelli cork tape over the decades. Never had it break once. You just need to use some common sense about how tight to wrap in. Never used cork gel tape, so i have no idea about using it.

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    Anyone double wrap, or ever bisect an inner tube for the right feel?
    Never tried the inner tube thing, but back in the day I used to wrap Benotto over Cinelli. Compressed the cork a fair bit but still gave some grip to the bars. I thought pure cork was too cushy (hey I was young then) but straight cloth or Cello left the bars too skinny. Helped to keep the cork clean as well. Looked a bit flash, mind.

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    OK, I took the plunge on some black Fizik Solocush Tacky Bar Tape which was on sale at Competitive Cyclist:

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...wMTA2#the-wall
    I've used Fizik grippy tape in the past and just installed this tape on my bikes. I needed more cushion, but not bulk, and this fit the bill.
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  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    Anyone double wrap, or ever bisect an inner tube for the right feel?
    I guess it depends on what you mean by "double wrap"; I once (years ago) did a diamond pattern with 2 rolls of cloth tape (1 black, 1 white), which I then shellacked.

    My 'normal' method is to put down a base layer of black friction tape over bare bars and cable housings, to not only locate them securely, but to also have a slightly stick base to put the (usually cork padded) tape on top.

    On a couple of bikes, I added a bit of extra padding by taking cut strips of previous tape, and laying them down on the top surface of the bar, around the bend (where my hand often sits), and maybe a second strip on the top of the drops, near the end plug. But actual double-wrapping of my bars with cork tape? Tried that once, but the bars ended up with too much padding.......
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  17. #67
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    @NTT
    Interesting. The meaty area I need is located on the drop, parallel to the road. After the deep bend I taper for more cushion toward the plug.
    The top bar area left and right of the stem to the shifter is where I may have excess because of flat bar profile and therefor unnecessary or bulky to double wrap that zone.

    I'm still playing with this.

    Now starting to question my bar width at 42cm.
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  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    @NTT
    Interesting. The meaty area I need is located on the drop, parallel to the road. After the deep bend I taper for more cushion toward the plug.
    The top bar area left and right of the stem to the shifter is where I may have excess because of flat bar profile and therefor unnecessary or bulky to double wrap that zone.

    I'm still playing with this.

    Now starting to question my bar width at 42cm.
    Not sure how scientific this is, but Art's Cyclery has a video here on how to judge which handlebar width is right for you starting at around 0:35:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abbNEPP_Z94

    My shoulders are wide and if I use his formula I take a 46cm, but these are hard to find, so I end up with a 44cm which seems OK.
    "Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital." - Aaron Levenstein.

    "With
    bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."
    -- DCGriz, RBR.





  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    Anyone double wrap, or ever bisect an inner tube for the right feel?

    Sorry, If this veers off topic Lombard, I'd like to know how the tube core works with tape over it.

    double wrap has been common practice for myself and riding buddies going back at least 30 years now. My training buddy was 6 6 and I am 6 4, big hands so the conventional handlebar diameter feels narrow and painful, so we were double wrapping with Cork Ribbon from then till today.

    A few years ago I started putting that bicycle bar gel under the contact points as well as double wrap. But you know what? The gel doesn't do anything for me. The double wrap still does the heavy lifting in reducing hand hot spots. I've even triple wrapped it for the top halves.

    I just buy the cheapest foam/cork bar tape. It's all the same to me. I was buying tape for 8 dollars a pack, but recently found it for $0.99 a pack on Amazon, so I stocked up. I also have to shop around to find thicker grips for my mountain bikes - oem grips feel like holding onto a piano wire.
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  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    My shoulders are wide and if I use his formula I take a 46cm, but these are hard to find, so I end up with a 44cm which seems OK.
    This video about bar width touches on some critical relationships with ones fit.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYjvsg-ztmo
    Last edited by rudge66; 5 Days Ago at 02:45 PM.
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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    My shoulders are wide and if I use his formula I take a 46cm, but these are hard to find, so I end up with a 44cm which seems OK.
    Not all handlebars measure the same - I have 1 set of 44's that measure like 42s and 1 set of 44s that measure 46 at the hoods. I can ride with either of them comfortably though, the 42s just feel a little cramped vs what I'm used to. The 46s are fine being a bit wider because they are on my gravel bike and it's nice to have a bit more leverage sometimes even on the hoods.
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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    Not all handlebars measure the same - I have 1 set of 44's that measure like 42s and 1 set of 44s that measure 46 at the hoods. I can ride with either of them comfortably though, the 42s just feel a little cramped vs what I'm used to. The 46s are fine being a bit wider because they are on my gravel bike and it's nice to have a bit more leverage sometimes even on the hoods.
    Some manufacturers of handlebars measure from different points too - either the hood area or the drops. And with some gravel bike bars having flared drops, that can be a big difference.
    "Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital." - Aaron Levenstein.

    "With
    bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."
    -- DCGriz, RBR.





  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Some manufacturers of handlebars measure from different points too - either the hood area or the drops. And with some gravel bike bars having flared drops, that can be a big difference.
    yeah, my gravel bars measure 46 at the hoods and just under 52 at the bar ends.
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  24. #74
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    I found it interesting in the Cade video I linked,
    the fitter mentioned 80% of road bike riders riding the market standard equipted 42cm bars, actually do better on 40cm bars.

    Another take away is the term shoulder measurement being well inside ones outer shoulder, and closer towards the armpit.
    This perspective would likely apply to correct road fit.
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  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudge66 View Post
    I found it interesting in the Cade video I linked,
    the fitter mentioned 80% of road bike riders riding the market standard equipted 42cm bars, actually do better on 40cm bars.

    Another take away is the term shoulder measurement being well inside ones outer shoulder, and closer towards the armpit.
    This perspective would likely apply to correct road fit.
    Well the guy in the video looked like he has quite narrow shoulders. I have actually ridden a bike with 42cm bars and breathing felt restricted. I checked again and bone to bone I measure between 43 and 44cm. According the Art's video, I should add 2cm and round up to the next size.

    In the real world, 44 feels about right while 42 feels too narrow.
    "Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital." - Aaron Levenstein.

    "With
    bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."
    -- DCGriz, RBR.





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