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Thread: Richie pedals

  1. #1
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    Richie pedals

    Has anyone rebuilt these mtn pedals?

    https://photos.smugmug.com/Sports/Se...IMG_1288-M.jpg

  2. #2
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    The old RITCHEY pedals (what's in your photo) were pretty bad. Harder to get into then SPD, harder to get out of. They definitely use different cleats.
    Last edited by cxwrench; 07-09-2018 at 07:40 AM.
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    I have used these on several bikes work fine if adj properly.

    Has anyone rebuilt them is what I am asking?
    Bike has a tic in pedal revolution?

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    I've used Ritchey pedals for 20 years, and have a few older pairs just like what you show and still use them. I disagree that they are "pretty bad" and in fact think they were better than than SPD pedals at the time.

    IMO Ritchey confused customers a little bit over the proper cleats to use. They were never truly SPD compatible, and you needed to use the correct Ritchey cleats with their pedals. This is why you get the stories of people saying the engagement/disengagement didn't work well - it's largely because people were using the wrong cleats.

    The older pedals need the cleats that have a more flat surface on the bottom of the cleat. The newer V3 and V4 Ritchey pedals need the new cleats that have a bit of taper on each side of the cleat.

    I use V4 mountain pedals for mtb and cyclocross, and I have been using their V4 road pedals (same cleat as mountain pedals!) for road and even track riding. I'm obviously quite happy with them.

    As far as rebuilding, I've never done it with the older mountain pedals because they never really needed it. I have rebuilt the V4 pedals, which was easy to do. Just took off end cap, cleaned them up, regreased and reassembled, the they were good to go. One thing to note is that the removable cap on the end of the pedal is reverse threaded on one of the pedals.
    Last edited by GearDaddy; 07-09-2018 at 07:28 AM.

  5. #5
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    I've worked w/ dozens of people over the last 15 or so years that have had these pedals and there is no possible way that they are anywhere near as good or easy to use as Shimano. Not. A. Single. Chance. I've tried them myself because at first I couldn't believe that a normal size guy couldn't get into them. They're not good.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I've worked w/ dozens of people over the last 15 or so years that have had these pedals and there is no possible way that they are anywhere near as good or easy to use as Shimano. Not. A. Single. Chance. I've tried them myself because at first I couldn't believe that a normal size guy couldn't get into them. They're not good.
    I said that the older Ritchey pedals were IMO better than the SPD pedals *at the time*. Newer SPD pedals are a definite improvement from the design 15+ years ago. No argument there. Even so the older Ritchey's are ok, and have proven to be quite durable as well.

    The Ritchey V3 and Paradigm pedals are very similar to newer SPD design. I actually don't like them as much as the Ritchey V4 pedals, which I use now and like very much.

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    How about switching pedals with a difference pair to be sure the clicking is from pedal?

    I recently chased down a clicking to a bottom bracket with angular bearings that needed a slight load from the crank arm when assembling. Took me a long time to eliminate rear wheel, pedals, greasing B.B. bearings until I learned of the need to load the bearings.
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    Tic in crank?

    This setup has been on three different frames I just kept switching until I got another Serotta frame. The pedals do not exhibit any unusual symptoms thought I would start there. The bb. Is sealed all ten speed campy components.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    The old RITCHEY pedals (what's in your photo) were pretty bad. Harder to get into then SPD, harder to get out of. They definitely use different cleats.
    Why is this thread on Ritchie pedals (i.e., components) not in the proper forum?
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    Quote Originally Posted by GearDaddy View Post
    I said that the older Ritchey pedals were IMO better than the SPD pedals *at the time*. Newer SPD pedals are a definite improvement from the design 15+ years ago. No argument there. Even so the older Ritchey's are ok, and have proven to be quite durable as well.

    The Ritchey V3 and Paradigm pedals are very similar to newer SPD design. I actually don't like them as much as the Ritchey V4 pedals, which I use now and like very much.
    Well, I had the original spds and they were damned good pedals. A bit heavy and no float, but mechanically and functionally as good as today spds. Crappy in mud but spds aren't good in mud anyway. They had real adjustable ball bearings too, unlike the inferior bushing bearings used in Ritchey pedals. I think Wellgo made Ritchey pedals, maybe still do.


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    To answer the OP's question, I'm not sure if replacement bearings are available for these. I also doubt it would be cost and time effective to do so. A new pair of Shimano SPD M520s are only $25 online and you will probably get over 10K miles with these. Not a bad deal.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    A new pair of Shimano SPD M520s are only $25 online and you will probably get over 10K miles with these. Not a bad deal.
    +1. Just get new Shimano pedals. As someone who owned those exact Ritchey pedals, you want Shimanos (any SPD - they're all the same).

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    The tic went to a more of a rachet sound as the pedals appeared fine I may remove cranks, pedals & have a look at the BB. Something is failing that is the next biggest factor with crank.
    If I stand up or pull up on pedals the sound almost goes away.
    Have never seen spd pedals actually like what I have.
    I will fix what I can, that said if it is the BB I have a replacement.

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    I have the Ritchey Pro-Paradigm Mtn pedals on my CX and I use Shimano on all other bikes. 1300 miles so far. They are just a little harder to get into (finding the right spot) and feel like they have a lil less contact platform. Other than that they have been fine.

    Shimano SPD is very nice, just not as light as the Ritchey. Nino Schurter uses Ritchey so they must be good enough for us simpletons lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by seaswood View Post
    The tic went to a more of a rachet sound as the pedals appeared fine I may remove cranks, pedals & have a look at the BB. Something is failing that is the next biggest factor with crank.
    If I stand up or pull up on pedals the sound almost goes away.
    Have never seen spd pedals actually like what I have.
    I will fix what I can, that said if it is the BB I have a replacement.
    did you check rear skewer?
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    Just checked rear skewer it is fine, BB or rear hub?

    Standing on pedals it gets better quieter as lifting on pedals.

    Have not had time to pull BB.

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    Removed hub of which did feel gravely but hard to tell as this was failing under load.
    Or the rear hub was.
    Campagnolo advised to have drain holes in bottom of bob frame of which I do not.
    Yes there was a bit of moisture in there.
    Has anyone drilled holes in bottom of frame to allow bb to drain properly?

  18. #18
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    Replaced the BB now runs fine.

    The one I took out was in three bikes, the inner seal did not go all way aound axle?

    Serotta Colorado Lt frame, F1 fork.

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