Road Fork Offset nos
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  1. #1
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    Road Fork Offset nos

    Has recent discovery of fork offset inducing trail as-with Mountain Bike's past couple seasons become something to be more varied in road/gravel today?
    The recent frame-up build has a lively ride and fits very well for doing the number-crunch myself. Looking at basic geometry it's well behind in HT steepness if being compared to road race frames; the frame is actually an aggressive gravel-based Ridley frame which fits 35's, has 28C P Zero at the moment. Someday I'll work back up to a road specific build.

    Anyway - my Toilet reading is a 2006 Bicycling issue w/ a Pinarello featured in there. Dogma F4:13 The range of that-year frames refer to maintaining the balance of the Dogma but as tuned for this, that, the other. The geometry being more relaxed than American Road frames of the day is what's being repeated however.

    Given HT angle on the frame did have 73, was there a standard at the time for having a shorter offset? Only curious as to what it is my bike provides me; I have no idea what a 'true' road frame responds like but am comfortable with how my Ridley feels - whatever its mean-geometry balances out from.

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  2. #2
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    Take a look at sales brochures for the model, often such esoterica as offset (often under the term 'rake') and the all important "trail" will be noted. Road bikes tend to be in the nieghborhood of 60mm trail, MTB's usually less.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Take a look at sales brochures for the model, often such esoterica as offset (often under the term 'rake') and the all important "trail" will be noted. Road bikes tend to be in the nieghborhood of 60mm trail, MTB's usually less.
    Not wanting to sort my bike or swap forks; there are currently some bike makers selling other-offsets for their frames though -- fitting an uncut 48cm fork onto a 56cm frame for more trail (less offset) for ex.

    Inside this Buyers Guide issue of Bicycling I've got kicking around is a broad generalization then-geometry of American Road Frames as more aggro than Euro-styled bikes and frames. HT of the F4 is not far from what is typical today which made me wonder if there was then standard fork offsets lending itself to more trail-factor - or less if an American Bike. If that was the case, what's the typical relationship of HT and offset from BITD? My previous Ridley from 2016, it shows 47mm offset. Today, MTB appears to be reverting to 2006-2007 fork offsets of 42mm like on the AVA tuned Totem I push on trails & lift-access.

    FWIW - I do not consider anything MTB Geo as representative of bicycle tuning. There's just a few bikes out there that never deviated from form-following-function, as opposed to pleasing BeigeBike.com commenters and creating a monster. A rigid SS or gear bike - sure, there's something to adhere to. But Mountain Bike today, unless XC or DH specific makes throw-up-a-little-in-my-mouth feelings. 15-20 years ago, sturdiest rear axle spec for all intents and purposes was written-off only to be reinvented having 1mm less width per side - 150mm vs. 148 today. Just lacing a wheel is a big-deal it seems.
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  4. #4
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    Is there a question you are asking? Or are you just here to make 6 or 7 opinions in one single, incoherent post? Could you get to the point instead of just throwing euphemisms loosely together in an incomprehensible mess?
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Is there a question you are asking? Or are you just here to make 6 or 7 opinions in one single, incoherent post? Could you get to the point instead of just throwing euphemisms loosely together in an incomprehensible mess?
    Sure. Ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haint View Post
    Sure. Ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer.
    I'm with Toulouse. What exactly is the point of your posts?

  7. #7
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    Someone should tell him to adjust the handlebars.
    Too old to ride plastic

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haint View Post
    Sure. Ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer.
    Sorry, but my brain hurts after trying to dissect your morass of non-sequiters. IS there a question,or did you just leave the faucet to your language cortex open?
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    Someone should tell him to adjust the handlebars.
    Only curious here... what picture in a magazine do you set up your bike to? I'm a mountain bike rider/occasional racer first and this setup feels natural.
    Don't like it? How's it feel to not like things??
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haint View Post
    Only curious here... what picture in a magazine do you set up your bike to? I'm a mountain bike rider/occasional racer first and this setup feels natural.
    Don't like it? How's it feel to not like things??
    It's your bike to set up as you see fit, but the bars look to have slipped in the stem. Riding on the drops would probably be easier on the wrists if the drops were level in stead of pointing up.

    It ain't about pictures in magazines.
    Too old to ride plastic

  11. #11
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    hey, what is a 'nos' ?
    the bar angle would be a big problem here on the tops & bottoms. I like to have the bottoms level or a little drop, and the tops should be flat or a little up.

    Also, do you have a small chainring? OMG, do you ride in any hills, on a gravel bike? what is up with that?

    As far as angles are concerned, I put a fork on once and rode it backwards for 2 months, it felt a little odd at less than 5mph, but I had it over 40mph several times before realizing my trail wasn't trail'in, it was lead'in. Turned it around and still seems a little odd at less than 5mph, but better.
    Last edited by duriel; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:35 AM.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    It's your bike to set up as you see fit, but the bars look to have slipped in the stem. Riding on the drops would probably be easier on the wrists if the drops were level in stead of pointing up.

    It ain't about pictures in magazines.
    Just for the sake of having adjustment, before a ride recently the drop was raised a bit to be more level. 65miles in just over three hours in city traffic and I was not comfortable. Again - riding 800mm Renthal w/ 50mm stems on my trail/mini-DH bikes is probably a bit different than going say from the 460mm bars I have to 380's like would be big change to gravel/road riders.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    hey, what is a 'nos' ?
    the bar angle would be a big problem here on the tops & bottoms. I like to have the bottoms level or a little drop, and the tops should be flat or a little up.

    Also, do you have a small chainring? OMG, do you ride in any hills, on a gravel bike? what is up with that?

    As far as angles are concerned, I put a fork on once and rode it backwards for 2 months, it felt a little odd at less than 5mph, but I had it over 40mph several times before realizing my trail wasn't trail'in, it was lead'in. Turned it around and still seems a little odd at less than 5mph, but better.
    It's 1x and a bunch of cassette to swap. Once I get back into elevation (I'm on the coast in SWFL at the moment) I'll create a gear to match. I'd go w/ 46x11-36 previously unless doing a hill climb.

    Made an attempt at a group ride yesterday AM and commented to a somewhat-local to back home how my 80miles had 200ft of elevation here as opposed to 7-8k of rolling hills...

    nos = 'numbers'

    The only backward or upsidedown item I'd consider on a bike is flat handlebar orientation but agin - what do I know...

    This is my all around mountain bike BTW all 36.5lbs of it and now 16 years of age to the frame... I'm a bit crusty.
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