Upgrade Suggestions
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  1. #1

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    Upgrade Suggestions

    I'm thinking of upgrading a couple components, but I would rather keep the cost down. I currently have a TCR2 which is full 105. The shifting in the front probably just requires some tweaking. While shifting to the big ring, it really doesn't want to catch when I'm in a smaller cog on the rear. Maybe someone can make a suggestion on how to tweak this up, I've tried several times.

    But the rear is very clunky engaging different gears, especially when you start dropping down to smaller cogs. It makes it very difficult to maintain a smooth pedal stroke when it engages so abruptly.

    Now, would I see better / smoother shifting if I dropped an Ultegra RD on the bike or would I be better in upgrading the 105 STI's? Obviously, upgrading the RD would be a lot cheaper otherwise it sounds like it would be worth while just upgrading everything shifting related.

    Thanks,
    - Neil

  2. #2

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    adjustments

    Quote Originally Posted by witcomb
    I'm thinking of upgrading a couple components, but I would rather keep the cost down. I currently have a TCR2 which is full 105. The shifting in the front probably just requires some tweaking. While shifting to the big ring, it really doesn't want to catch when I'm in a smaller cog on the rear. Maybe someone can make a suggestion on how to tweak this up, I've tried several times.

    But the rear is very clunky engaging different gears, especially when you start dropping down to smaller cogs. It makes it very difficult to maintain a smooth pedal stroke when it engages so abruptly.

    Now, would I see better / smoother shifting if I dropped an Ultegra RD on the bike or would I be better in upgrading the 105 STI's? Obviously, upgrading the RD would be a lot cheaper otherwise it sounds like it would be worth while just upgrading everything shifting related.

    Thanks,
    - Neil
    Assuming stuff is not wore out or buggered,proper adjustment provides a bigger payout than poorly adjusted upgraded stuff. WWW.parktool has the complete drill in the repair section. For both the front and rear start at the beginning with shifters in proper position and loose cable. Even low end sora shifts well if adjusted right, and poorly adjusted DA will just be an expennsive dog.

  3. #3
    Diesel Engine
    Reputation: Mike Prince's Avatar
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    Look beyond the drivetrain

    Agree wirh what Rusty said. If you really want to 'upgrade' look at wheels/tires or your saddle. That's money well-spent. All components, when well-adjusted, become pretty much invisible. You may feel a more meaningful difference if you updrade contact points - either you bike with the road or your body with your bike.

    So, an 'upgrade' could be new bars, a new saddle/stem, a better pedal system, new bike shorts or gloves. Don't get hung up on the drivetrain components though - there's a lot more that can make your bike more enjoyable to ride, like fit and comfort.

    In the end, most people who do large-scale component upgrades realize that they would be better offf with a new bike rather than their old bike with 'nicer' (but no more functional) components.

  4. #4

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    The idea was just to upgrade the RD, nothing more. I am happy with my saddle, wheels are fine and upgrading would be expensive. I am interested in a new stem, the one I have, the standard giant whatever, is a little long for me.

    This was just something that I found to be very annoying. I'll try adjusting everything tomorrow using the Park website. My shifting is great when in higher gears (15T+) but when you get lower it just starts to clunk, especially while in the big ring.

    - Neil

  5. #5
    hi, I'm Larry
    Reputation: bimini's Avatar
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    If existing drive train is worn out look at upgrading

    Most likely if your 105 is relatively new and the chain rings look fresh (no sharks teeth) you just need to get the system dialed in. Check for chain wear. A worn chain will cause the chain to skip on the rear sprockets.

    If the 105 drive train is worn out then look at upgrading. Drive trains are a wear item and will wear out if you put mega miles on the bike. (I need to change mine every couple of years). You can wait to upgrade until you need to replace chain rings etc. Upgrade parts as they wear out if your concerned about spending money wisely.

    There are a lot of other things to spend money on on the bike depending on what you want to do with the bike. If you want to go fast look at wheels, aerobars, etc. If you want to go distances then look for comfort items, seats, bags, lights etc.

    I'm a Campy fan but the 105 has been around for awhile and has a reputation for being a solid dependable system. It probably just needs to be tweeked in.

  6. #6
    SoCal--S Beach to the Dam
    Reputation: shokhead's Avatar
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    I did mine because i wanted to.Changed my rear Ultegra der,cass and chain to DA. Weight was only 50g or so but i dont care about that but it did improve shifting. I only had 1500 on the Ultegra.

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    soft pedal

    When you shift, don't forget to take a little pressure off the pedals, this will give you much smoother shifts. I agree with the others, your 105 stuff should work fine if properly cleaned, adjusted and lubed.

  8. #8
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Couldn't agree more, weight off the pedal during shifting really smooths out the process. I sometimes play a game with myself ( by way of weight on the pedals) just to see how smooth I can actually get the thing to shift.

  9. #9
    633
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    Ti me up
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    Ditto on Park Tool site

    Quote Originally Posted by witcomb
    The idea was just to upgrade the RD, nothing more. I am happy with my saddle, wheels are fine and upgrading would be expensive. I am interested in a new stem, the one I have, the standard giant whatever, is a little long for me.

    This was just something that I found to be very annoying. I'll try adjusting everything tomorrow using the Park website. My shifting is great when in higher gears (15T+) but when you get lower it just starts to clunk, especially while in the big ring.

    - Neil
    Many cyclists who do their own work are spending way too much time with the limit screws, not enough with the barrel adjusters, and are essentially making random adjustments while praying that the magic juju will come back into their drivetrain. I know that's what I used to do, and I've talked to others who have been doing the same thing.

    The shifting adjustment explanation on the Park Tool site was what helped me really understand how to tune my shifting. Took me a couple times reading through it to grasp what they were saying, about using slack cables and pulling by hand, rather than using the shifters, when setting the limit screws. But then it all seemed to click. It made a huge difference, and it's a pleasure to have sweet, efficient shifting.
    Michael



    You see lots of happy cyclists. When was the last time you saw a runner smiling?

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