What’s the consensus on cracks in tires (due to age) - Page 2
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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-Flo View Post
    I just noticed similar mild cracks on a 8-month old S-Works Turbo tire that has maybe 1,200 miles tops on it. It’s kind of a delicate slick tire that has little chunks missing here and there. Time to replace. I’ve been wanting to try the 28c GP4000sii anyhow.


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    I have had the same problems with my S-works Turbo's. Front and rear tires, I have another pair on my race wheels which have gotten almost no use, and they show no sign of cracking, but my daily driver tires are pretty worrisome

  2. #27
    What the what???
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailrnr View Post
    I have had the same problems with my S-works Turbo's. Front and rear tires, I have another pair on my race wheels which have gotten almost no use, and they show no sign of cracking, but my daily driver tires are pretty worrisome
    From Saint Sheldon... seemed apropos.

    Tire Wear-When should you replace your tires?

    Many cyclists waste money replacing perfectly functional tires simply because they're old, or may have discolored sidewalls. If you just want new tires because the old ones look grotty, it's your money, but if you are mainly concerned with safety/function, there are only two reasons for replacing old tires:

    * When the tread is worn so thin that you start getting a lot of flats from small pieces of glass and the like, or the fabric shows through the rubber.
    *When the tire's fabric has been damaged, so that the tire has a lumpy, irregular appearance somewhere, or the tube bulges through the tire.

    Cracks in the tread are harmless. Small punctures in the tire such as are typically caused by nails, tacks, thorns or glass slivers are also harmless to the tire, since the tire doesn't need to be air-tight. The sealant of tubeless tires will plug these small holes.

    Gumwall tires sometimes get unsightly blistering on the sidewalls from ozone damage. (This is frequently caused by storing the bike near a furnace--the powerful electric motors in typical furnaces can put a fair amount of ozone into the air.) This blistering is ugly, but doesn't actually compromise the safety/reliability of the tire in the least.
    Last edited by Opus51569; 05-18-2019 at 07:48 AM.
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  3. #28
    .je
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    I picked up a used bike recently that still has the OE tires from 2007. They still have almost all the rubber and seem OK but really hard riding. Are these still good to use?

  4. #29
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    IMO if the tread is old enough that it's got cracks all over it definitely doesn't have the same traction it did when new. I'd change them for sure.
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  5. #30
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    Cracks indicate that the tire is garbage, and failure is definitely an option.

    Why take a chance? It's so easy to buy new tires... much easier than taking pictures of your tires and posting them on a forum so a bunch of strangers can give you advice.

  6. #31
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    If you see cracks in the tires throw them out. If a tire was stored in a garage and you see no cracks by folding the sidewall and rolling it between your fingers to force it try to show cracks, or after filling with air and still see no cracks, the tire is GOOD, there is no need to throw it away. After some years in a garage the only thing that will happen to the tire if it didn't crack is the tread will become glazed, and that means it may have hardened on the surface with evidence of a sheen, but after about a 100 mile or so of riding that glaze should wear off and the tire is good to go. I have a set of tires that only had 5 miles on them when the owner stored a 1984 Fuji Club in his attic in 1984, in 2007 or so he had a garage sale, he decided to sell that Fuji, I happen to come by in my car which I stomped on the brakes when I saw it, we talked, I rode it with the original tires to see how it fit and rode, I bought the bike for $40, I rode that bike with those tires for about 250 miles before putting on new tires. I still have those original factory tires, they're still not remotely cracking, so why did I replace them you ask? because the newer tires have better flat protection belts whereas back then they didn't have any, and I wanted that protection if I was going to be riding it more often.

    The only issue you might have with tires that were stored but no cracks but the thread rubber has that sheen is that the tire could be slicker than it was new. I no longer live in mountains so I couldn't test those Fuji tires to see if they would have had traction issues, but if you don't live in a mountainous area you would be hard pressed to break traction. You can at least test the tires once you ride it for about 100 miles but hitting the brakes hard and see if they skid more than you like, if so then get new tires, if not then ride them till they wear out.

  7. #32
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    Structurally the cracks in the tires should be a issue. Hard rubber and cracks in a tire are a major issue if you ride in the mountains or at the limit of traction. If you don't corner or brake hard and only ride on MUT's the cracks should not be a problem. If your flying down switchbacks and regularly brake slide your tires at times, BIG ISSUE.
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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    Structurally the cracks in the tires should be a issue. Hard rubber and cracks in a tire are a major issue if you ride in the mountains or at the limit of traction. If you don't corner or brake hard and only ride on MUT's the cracks should not be a problem. If your flying down switchbacks and regularly brake slide your tires at times, BIG ISSUE.
    Cracks can be sort of a problem even on level straight road, sure you probably won't crash, but now you have a blow out that blew out a section of the sidewall, you're not going to be able to fix it and ride home, so walk you must.

    I also bought a Miyata used that had the original tires, those were cracked like crazy, filled them air and they held so I thought I would ride it to adjust the fit, I was only about 2 blocks from home when pow the tire blew, unrepairable, a person standing outside their home thought it was 22 that went off! That was a front tire too, but I wasn't going fast and I was on a straight and level road, so it was non safety issue. I did go with a friend to help him pick up a 1962 Ford T-Bird that had the original factory tires white wall tires on it, the tires were worn and the sidewalls were cracked, he decided to drive it home, I followed him in his car we drove up in, we made it 300 some odd miles back to his house without a tire incident, I told him I wasn't going to drive the Bird home! But car tires are beefier with less psi used than a road tire.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by froze View Post
    Cracks can be sort of a problem even on level straight road, sure you probably won't crash.......
    And in a game of Russian roulette, you probably won't blow your brains out either. Would you do it?

    CX makes a good point too that a cracking tire is a hard brittle tire with no traction.
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    And in a game of Russian roulette, you probably won't blow your brains out either. Would you do it?

    CX makes a good point too that a cracking tire is a hard brittle tire with no traction.
    I think spinning a revolver with 5 empty slots and 1 bullet is a hell of lot more riskier than riding a bike with cracked tires on flat level road. Unless the rider has no skills whatsoever on how to control their bike in the event of a blowout I seriously doubt there would be a problem...HOWEVER, I'm NOT recommending they do that, I never did either, some of you simply can't comprehend what you read. Maybe I should have written what I said using text messaging shorthand, or abbreviations, whatever you want call that, anyway, then you would have probably understood me better.

  11. #36
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    If you have a blowout on a cracked tire, near or where the crack is... you might not crash, especially if you're riding on a flat level MUP and you're slow enough that you're not going to get injured beyond some dumbly acquired road rash if you can't unclip fast enough to put your foot down.

    However... you're not going to be fixing that kind of blowout with the ancient folded-up 5-dollar bill and the fresh new tube you keep in your tool kit. You're likely going to be walking home.

    Unless you have a folded up new tire and tube stashed in your road kit. And if you have a new folded up tire, why the hell did you decide to squeeze a few more dumbly eXtreme penny-pinching miles out of the cracked tire?

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