What model of Canyon Aeroad? Or something different?
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  1. #1
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    What model of Canyon Aeroad? Or something different?

    Hello,

    I am currently pretty set on getting a Canyon Aeroad, unless someone can steer me elsewhere. Budget is preferably under $5k (ouch that hurts to even type it).

    So it should seem easy, but I just cannot make up my mind about which version.

    7.0 which is 105, no aerocockpit, rim brakes, but $3k

    8.0 which is Ultegra mechanical, aero cockpit, rim brakes, $3,600

    8.0 Disc which is Ultegra mechanical, aero cockpit, disc brakes, $4k

    So what is making it hard is not really the disc vs. no disc, but the fact that I will most likely need to swap out at least the cassette, chain, derailleur and possibly the cranks, or just the cranks. I am in the mountains and as much as I want to live Rule #5 every minute, I struggle with some climbs now with a 11-32 and 50/34.

    So I was thinking maybe I would swap out the cranks for a Stages power meter and then swap the cassette and chain. This would probably only happen if I bought the 7.0 or 8.0.
    The disc version would just get a cassette, derailleur, chain swap.
    The Stages and RD, Cassette would all be Ultegra

    Thoughts?

    Thank you for the feedback

  2. #2
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    You live in the mountains,why the Aeroad ? Why not the ultimate or giant Tcr? And yes,discs all the way,at least they will come at hand..
    Last edited by Devastazione; 03-12-2019 at 12:03 PM.

  3. #3
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    Throw the velomi-not-i crap out the window. The guy who started it is a POS. Buy a bike that fits your needs, not his ego.

    If you live in the mountains, a compact is fine. Get some gearing that you will ride and enjoy.
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    I'm not really sure what you are looking for here.

    You are going to hear from people who hate disc brakes and people who love disc brakes. They are both right and they are both wrong.

    No one here can tell you which you will prefer. They both have their pro's and cons.

    One thing to consider is wheel compatibility. If you have (or plan to have) multiple bikes, and plan to swap wheels between them, they all need to be the same axle type (12mm TA, 9mm QR, 15mm/12mm TA, and same size rotors, etc...)

    If you're a one bike kind of guy or gal (sorry, I really can't relate to this), you should probably go with the higher end version of the Canyon. I say this from experience that the higher end builds generally have great value on the wheel sets. My Endurace CF SLX 8.0 Disc Di2 came with a set of Reynolds Assault LE wheels (rebadged Reynolds AR 41X DB), and they are a fantastic wheel for an OEM set. If the same holds true for the Aeroad, I'd let that sway your opinion.

    As far as the component groups go, functionally, there isn't going to be a lot of difference between 105, Ultegra and even Dura-Ace. Even Shimano will tell you that Ultegra is the sweet spot for enthusiasts. I doubt you could tell the difference between the two in day to day use. If you want Ultegra get Ultegra. If you want 105, get 105.

    And any modern SHimano groupset (105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace) with a GS derailleur will support an 11-34. You might need to make a small b-screw adjustment.

    Lastly, having been through the Canyon purchase process, I'll warn you, it's not for everyone. If you are good at troubleshooting and maintaining you own bike, and understand the limitations in terms of support for the 'online only' business model, then go for it. If you are one to take your bike to a shop for basic maintenance and troubleshooting, you might go somewhere else.

    When I bought my first Canyon, I had some issues with the RD. I consider myself a pretty good bike mechanic, and went through all of the troubleshooting. I finally, at Canyon's suggestion, took the bike to a shop. They couldn't specifically identify the issue, but confirmed the symptoms. Ultimately, after some insistence on my part, I returned the bike for a replacement. The replacement has been fine. I suspect the first bike may have had a slightly bent or twisted derailleur cage, as the hangar was straight, and the issue disappeared when I swapped RDs. For me, this wasn't a terrible experience, other than having to re-box the bike and ship it back. If I had purchased locally, the shop would have likely warrantied the RD and sent me on my way.

    I find local shops don't really appreciate Canyon's business model, and might not be very enthusiastic about helping you. Fortunately, I'm in pretty good standing at my local shop, and they were pretty cool about helping me troubleshoot.


    Edit: after looking at the build specs on the current Canyons, it seems they are not spec'ing the same wheels, so my comments above may not reflect the current situation. Be sure to check the specs on this. If you don't like your wheels, and have to replace them, that could be a significant cost to upgrade.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastazione View Post
    You live in the mountains,why the Aeroad ? Why not the ultimate or giant Tcr? And yes,discs all the way,at least they will come at hand..
    Great question.
    The first reason is because any of the Ultimates I would buy are the same weight as the Aeroad, so why not get the aero advantage?

    Also the lowest Ultimate SLX is Di2 and since they only sell a mechanical version of the frame I am assuming the Di2 battery is housed in the seatpost, not the frame. I just sold my Di2 bike because it had the battery in the seatpost and that doesn't work with my rack set up (long story).

    I could get the Ultimate SL 8.0 Disc and save quite a bit of $$$, but I would end up buying aero wheels anyways so it wouldn't be that much and again the weight is the same. Cassette is only an 11-30 so I would still need to swap out something, either cranks or RD/Cassette.

    Finally, I love the look of the Aeroad. The Ultimate just looks like a road bike to me.
    That TCR Advanced 1 KOM is a sweet deal, but I wonder about the brakes. Would still need to get some new wheels and don't really like the color. The other ones are just a little outside my price range.

    P.S. the Rules are the Rules. How seriously people take them is up to them. I mentioned it as a joke, mostly saying I wish I could be strong enough to push a Semi-compact 11-28 up the hills.
    Last edited by yourrealdad; 03-12-2019 at 03:32 PM.

  6. #6
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    Finx,

    Thanks for the feedback. All three of the Aeroads come with Reynolds AR wheels. The 8.0 Disc come with 62/58 while the other two come with 58/58. That is kinda what is making it tough. If I had to upgrade the wheels from the 7.0 or 8.0 then it would be easy, 8.0 disc all the way, but...

    I am not a one bike guy, except with road bikes. So I am trying to make this all fit.

    I am pretty good mechanically, but had a similar situation with a Ribble I bought. Could not diagnose the issue with the rear derailleur. Sent a new frame eventually. My philosophy is I pay for work that needs doing that I can't do. If you don't like the bike I bring in then send me away.

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    Pretty sure all Canyon Di2 bikes have the battery mounted using a bracket inside the down tube just above the bottom bracket.

  8. #8
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    I'm not seeing your issue? What will you ultimately end up with for gearing? If you are putting on smaller chainrings and a larger cassette, you may not have to mess with the chain? New RD for sure if you want to go higher than the 11-32. Why do you need a new crank when you can just swap rings? And for power, stages will work on the Ultegra crank.

    I have last year's 8.0 SLX disc and love it. Not the lightest bike in the world, but I'm sure the 62mm deep wheels don't help.

  9. #9
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    dcorn,

    Thank you for the reply. I guess even though I said it isn't about the disc brakes, it really is. Not in the sense of if I want disc or not, because I do, but if discs, ultegra, and aero cockpit are worth $1k, especially if I need to swap out a derailleur and at least rings.

    BTW the reason I would swap over the whole crank is because at least the ultegra r8000 crank is close to the price of both rings. About $160 vs $200.

    So I am leaning back to going 105 and swapping out the crank and RD for ultegra. I can do the cassette, chain, and RD for about $150. I can also put in a power meter for less than the 8.0 disc

    One thought that I have now, since looking at the Ultimates that Devastatione mentioned, is get the Aeroad 7.0 (swap out some parts), then also buy the Ultimate 7.0. It would come in a little over my budget, but now I have a aero bike and a more all round racing bike.

    Wheels would be swappable so I could put the AR 58s on the Ultimate if I chose to.
    I could also later get some lighter hoops to drop the ultimate's weight. I actually have a set of wheels right now that would drop a pound from the Askiums.

    This also goes into the compatibility realm now though. I am paying for outdated tech. If I buy a gravel bike it will most likely come with 12x100 and 12x142, so then these road bikes aren't compatible.

    Head hurts from thinking about this, but doesn't two bikes sound fun?

  10. #10
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    Perhaps not quite the same budget, but don't overlook Pinarello Gan or Prince (current equivalent). Incorporate most of the features of the F8/F10, and are just as aero as the Aeroad, but a better climber and all-round bike.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing181 View Post
    Perhaps not quite the same budget, but don't overlook Pinarello Gan or Prince (current equivalent). Incorporate most of the features of the F8/F10, and are just as aero as the Aeroad, but a better climber and all-round bike.
    Lol. Pinarello? Overpriced tanks with short warranties. A Giant is a superior bike. Besides, Giant produces the overpriced Pinarello bikes. Donít tell the white collar heroes who buy them. And how is a pig heavy frame like a Pinarello a better climber? Next youíll claim the disc version is an even better climber. Haha.

  12. #12
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    I don't see how your going to get lower gearing than compact/11-32. I posted another thread about this issue, & my take on that is you would need to go subcompact. ...or triple?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notvintage View Post
    And how is a pig heavy frame like a Pinarello a better climber?
    Clearly, no-one on a Pinarello is ever going to win a Pro Tour race which includes hills. Will keep it in mind.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    I don't see how your going to get lower gearing than compact/11-32. I posted another thread about this issue, & my take on that is you would need to go subcompact. ...or triple?
    no problem he can put a 11-36 or a 11-42 on the back, using a $20 Wolf Roadlink. stick with 50-34 chainrings, but may need the medium or long cage rear derailleur. solved. I did the same on both my bikes. too many 15% hills here and I use the bike for bikepacking too.

    Can also change to a clutched Ultegra 'RX' rear derailleur if the chain slap bothers you. I found I did not need it, even though I put one on my 2nd road bike with Roadlink and 11 42

    I would get the Ultegra mechanical Aeroad with rim brakes. For some reason the disc brakes on my other road bike have never been as good as the rims brakes on this bike, plus rim brakes so easy to maintain.

    my ultegra equipped bike with Roadlink and Shimano XT 11-42 in back (50-34 in front)

    Last edited by BCSaltchucker; 04-01-2019 at 08:18 AM.
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  15. #15
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    My daughter just got her team bike. It's one of these: https://rideblue.com/road-store/axino-ultegradi2-67hla Rim brakes, carbon frame and wheels.

    Weighs in at 15.2 pounds before pedals... not too bad. We traded out the saddle and chainrings for a junior setup, but didn't weigh it after.

    If you are after a light racing setup, it's pretty darn nice. Hers in the DuraAce mechanical build which is $4750. The Ultegra DI2 is $4450. Ultegra Mechanical is $3050. If you want to go 105 $2450.

    Attachment 324899
    Last edited by Chain; 04-02-2019 at 08:03 AM.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing181 View Post
    Clearly, no-one on a Pinarello is ever going to win a Pro Tour race which includes hills. Will keep it in mind.
    So he's rac'in in the ProTour, and look'in for a bike here?
    I got 60K ft on my Pino already this year, so they will go up hills. But they are a lot sweet'er go'in down!!!
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  17. #17
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    Here is what I have to contribute:

    -You're going to get wider gearing than a traditional 32 on the new SRAM eTap 12 speed products. Force eTap was just released yesterday and now I have an eggplant in my pants.

    -Apart from frame weight, similarly weighing frames can feel and perform differently due to carbon layups, forming, etc... but you knew that. I had a Ridley Noah SL for all of a month before I said, not for me. I would enjoy the benefits of the all rounder significantly more often than the forgone aero benefits.

    -The new eTap force ASX product also has a way to swap out the 2 part chaining to add a power meter.

    https://www.velonews.com/2019/04/new...ith-you_489950
    "That pretty much sums it up. I'm 43 and my max is ~178-180. If that HR chart was mine or Froome's, we'd be on the verge of death. But for you it probably looks like a normal workout." -TLG

    LOLOLOL

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9W9W View Post
    Here is what I have to contribute:

    -You're going to get wider gearing than a traditional 32 on the new SRAM eTap 12 speed products. Force eTap was just released yesterday and now I have an eggplant in my pants.

    -Apart from frame weight, similarly weighing frames can feel and perform differently due to carbon layups, forming, etc... but you knew that. I had a Ridley Noah SL for all of a month before I said, not for me. I would enjoy the benefits of the all rounder significantly more often than the forgone aero benefits.

    -The new eTap force ASX product also has a way to swap out the 2 part chaining to add a power meter.

    https://www.velonews.com/2019/04/new...ith-you_489950


    $70 proprietary chains...no thanks

    https://www.texascyclesport.com/sram-red-axs-12-speed-114-link-flattop-chain-with-powerlock-d1/

    And given SRAM's MAP=MSRP shenanigans, they're certainly not going to get cheaper.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    $70 proprietary chains...no thanks

    https://www.texascyclesport.com/sram-red-axs-12-speed-114-link-flattop-chain-with-powerlock-d1/

    And given SRAM's MAP=MSRP shenanigans, they're certainly not going to get cheaper.
    This is a road cycling forum. $1,500 wheels are alright to buy but a proprietary chain for a twelve speed group is heresy? The set is $1,600 itself, I don't understand why you're getting hung up on a chain price. How many of these do you plan on going through? Yes, new tech/products/toys are expensive but if he's splashing out, prudent to stay current.

    Me? I would wait to buy the whole thing used on eBay or something; much in the same way I do do with my replacement SRAM chains.
    "That pretty much sums it up. I'm 43 and my max is ~178-180. If that HR chart was mine or Froome's, we'd be on the verge of death. But for you it probably looks like a normal workout." -TLG

    LOLOLOL

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9W9W View Post
    This is a road cycling forum. $1,500 wheels are alright to buy but a proprietary chain for a twelve speed group is heresy? The set is $1,600 itself, I don't understand why you're getting hung up on a chain price. How many of these do you plan on going through? Yes, new tech/products/toys are expensive but if he's splashing out, prudent to stay current.

    Me? I would wait to buy the whole thing used on eBay or something; much in the same way I do do with my replacement SRAM chains.
    Wheels are a durable good. Chains are a consumable. That is the difference.

    Presuming for discussion I get the same roughly 1,500 miles out of a 12s chain I get out of an 11s (and not less)...the cost in 12s chains alone annually covers all my organized ride registrations for a year. Said another way, the annual cost in 12s chains would equal a couple of my used car loan payments.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Wheels are a durable good. Chains are a consumable. That is the difference.

    Presuming for discussion I get the same roughly 1,500 miles out of a 12s chain I get out of an 11s (and not less)...the cost in 12s chains alone annually covers all my organized ride registrations for a year. Said another way, the annual cost in 12s chains would equal a couple of my used car loan payments.
    I see. Well, maybe you should spend less on organized rides and treat yourself to eTap 12? Unless you're racing, which is the only way to justify what appears to be somewhere in the middle of the long bell curve tail of chain usage.
    "That pretty much sums it up. I'm 43 and my max is ~178-180. If that HR chart was mine or Froome's, we'd be on the verge of death. But for you it probably looks like a normal workout." -TLG

    LOLOLOL

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9W9W View Post
    I see. Well, maybe you should spend less on organized rides and treat yourself to eTap 12? Unless you're racing, which is the only way to justify what appears to be somewhere in the middle of the long bell curve tail of chain usage.
    Or instead of riding less just to afford bike maintenance...I could keep riding the rides I want, and keep buying 11s chains for my Di2 rig.


    You seem to be under the mistaken idea that your posts refute how stupidly priced SRAMs toys are getting when in fact aforesaid posts only serve to prove it.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Or instead of riding less just to afford bike maintenance...I could keep riding the rides I want, and keep buying 11s chains for my Di2 rig.


    You seem to be under the mistaken idea that your posts refute how stupidly priced SRAMs toys are getting when in fact aforesaid posts only serve to prove it.
    You seem to be under the mistaken idea that most eTap users change chains every 1,500 miles. You then extrapolate this long tail bell curve usage event to come up with some crazy consumables schedule that just isn't true for most.

    Separately, and in my opinion, organized rides are about the stupidest cycling related expense I can think of. $150-200 for a ride? No thanks. I'd rather buy chains every 1,500 miles.
    "That pretty much sums it up. I'm 43 and my max is ~178-180. If that HR chart was mine or Froome's, we'd be on the verge of death. But for you it probably looks like a normal workout." -TLG

    LOLOLOL

  24. #24
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    The sram Red Etap chains look like they are $70. I can't find a price on the force chain. I assume since it doesn't have hollow pins and weighs a bit more that it will be less than the $70.

    I'm looking forward to the Force Etap
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