My new Litespeed

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  • 01-13-2012
    sr20det510
    1 Attachment(s)
    My new Litespeed
    2011 Litespeed Archon C1 Sram Force :thumbsup:
    Ordered this on December 23rd from Realcyclist.com, and it finally arrived 2 days ago.

    I've been riding a Gary Fisher 29er for the last 4 years so this is a major change.
    I really like the bike, but I don't feel as confident on it as I do my mountain bike:(
    I just need to get use to the turning radius and figure out how fast I can turn corners and I will be set:D

    I'm currently using crankbros pedals (which I took off my 29er a few years ago) and i'm wondering what you guys are using and recommend.

    Anyone have a pedal set they are willing to sell?
  • 01-13-2012
    paule11
    Beautiful bike you will get used to the difference between the 29er and a road bike.
    I have thought of trying crank brother pedals on my road bike I would leave them on till your comfortable with your bikes handling.
  • 01-14-2012
    sr20det510
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by paule11 View Post
    Beautiful bike you will get used to the difference between the 29er and a road bike.
    I have thought of trying crank brother pedals on my road bike I would leave them on till your comfortable with your bikes handling.

    Thanks! I really like the lines of the bike!
    I think I might need a shorter stem, but will try adjusting the seat a bit forward first.

    As for the pedals, I removed them from my mountain bike because I had trouble disconnecting. I think it might have been the shoes I had but had an easier time with the Shimano pedals.
  • 01-14-2012
    sr20det510
    1 Attachment(s)
    BTW,
    what is this part for?
  • 01-14-2012
    twinkles
    perty bike, make sure those handlebars aren't set up so they'll swing around and hit the top tube. You could ruin the frame in a very minor fall.
  • 01-14-2012
    06cvpi
    Look like a jig to hold the seat mast so you can cut straight. My Fuji Track Pro came with one.

    Nice looking bike.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sr20det510 View Post
    BTW,
    what is this part for?

  • 01-15-2012
    sr20det510
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by twinkles View Post
    perty bike, make sure those handlebars aren't set up so they'll swing around and hit the top tube. You could ruin the frame in a very minor fall.

    Thanks,
    How do I take care of this?
  • 01-15-2012
    lambdamaster
    If you're interested, I can sell you a pair of white speedplay zero titanium pedals with new cleats. I am thinking about switching to black ones as they'd match my bike better. The white would go well with yours.
  • 01-16-2012
    rudedog55
    i use crank bros Quattro pedals, that way i can interchange between road, cross and MTB.

    road Quattro
    cross Candy 3
    MTB acid 2's and egg beaters

    great bike, i just paid for a C1R, waiting for it to arrive!!!

    Best of luck with the bike!!
  • 01-16-2012
    r_mutt
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sr20det510 View Post
    Thanks,
    How do I take care of this?


    Don't fall.
  • 01-16-2012
    sr20det510
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by lambdamaster View Post
    If you're interested, I can sell you a pair of white speedplay zero titanium pedals with new cleats. I am thinking about switching to black ones as they'd match my bike better. The white would go well with yours.

    I think the Speedplay titanium might be out of my budget : (
    But pm a price and we'll see if that is the case.
  • 01-16-2012
    sr20det510
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rudedog55 View Post
    i use crank bros Quattro pedals, that way i can interchange between road, cross and MTB.

    road Quattro
    cross Candy 3
    MTB acid 2's and egg beaters

    great bike, i just paid for a C1R, waiting for it to arrive!!!

    Best of luck with the bike!!

    Being able to ride one bike or the other w/o having to worry about shoes seems to make so much sense.

    C1R is a bit lighter and stiffer than the c1, correct?
    Is it a complete bike or frame?
  • 01-16-2012
    rudedog55
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sr20det510 View Post
    Being able to ride one bike or the other w/o having to worry about shoes seems to make so much sense.

    C1R is a bit lighter and stiffer than the c1, correct?
    Is it a complete bike or frame?

    i bought it as a frame set, lightly used.

    gonna use it as a crit bike this year, i have enough spares for 3 bikes, and i always end up stripping and customizing anyway.

    I think the weight is nominal 100-150g, as the C1 has internal cabling and a standard seat post and the C1R is external cables and ISP. They say it is stiffer, but i would venture that the average rider such as myself would not be able to tell if i was on both bikes blindfolded.
  • 01-16-2012
    sr20det510
    1 Attachment(s)
    One more picture
    Rode a bit today and I'm getting the hang of the shifters.
  • 01-16-2012
    twinkles
    Roll the bars back a bit? Switch to a deeper drop bar? Drop the stem? It's a tough situation if the bike is set up how you like it now. I love my FSA compact bars and would have a hard time getting rid of them. Sorry I don't have a perfect answer.
  • 01-17-2012
    r_mutt
    Don't listen to bad advice. Every bike has this "issue" of bars hitting the top tube if bent too far back. Just look at any picture of a proper bike and you will see that you are not alone. In reality, it almost never happens. In other words, it's a non-issue.
  • 01-18-2012
    sr20det510
    I'm getting use to the bike, so will leave it as is for the moment.
    Want to get fitted in the next month or so, so i think they will adjust what is needed then.
  • 01-19-2012
    Steelguy
    What a nice bike ! Hard to tell from you photo but the saddle appears to be pointing down. This might throw more weight on your arms and hands. You might be happier with the seat a bit lower and horizontal. Lots of people on this board ride Arione saddles, so ask some of them. On the other hand, you may be perfectly happy with the saddle set the way it is now. In that case, ride on.
  • 01-21-2012
    sr20det510
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by r_mutt View Post
    Don't listen to bad advice. Every bike has this "issue" of bars hitting the top tube if bent too far back. Just look at any picture of a proper bike and you will see that you are not alone. In reality, it almost never happens. In other words, it's a non-issue.

    Thanks for the advice!
    I tried to move the bars all around to hit the frame and it is difficult because of the way the cables are routed so I should be good!
  • 01-21-2012
    sr20det510
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Steelguy View Post
    What a nice bike ! Hard to tell from you photo but the saddle appears to be pointing down. This might throw more weight on your arms and hands. You might be happier with the seat a bit lower and horizontal. Lots of people on this board ride Arione saddles, so ask some of them. On the other hand, you may be perfectly happy with the saddle set the way it is now. In that case, ride on.

    I think you might be right!
    I actually lowed the seat post 5 mm and it feels better. I need to get a better torque wrench before I start messing with the bike more and more.

    I have a torque wrench from Harbor Freight but not sure how accurate it is. After buying it an older sales person there asked me about my buy and I told him what I bought and for what it would be used for and he said, "I wouldn't tighten it all the wat to 45 pounds with that! Set it at 25 and go with that. I'm not to sure if these torque wrenches are very accurate and I would be careful. You can practice tightening it and eventually you will learn to feel what the 45 pounds or 5nm feel like."

    I will work on adjusting the seat next.
  • 01-23-2012
    PoorCyclist
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sr20det510 View Post
    I think you might be right!
    I actually lowed the seat post 5 mm and it feels better. I need to get a better torque wrench before I start messing with the bike more and more.

    I have a torque wrench from Harbor Freight but not sure how accurate it is. After buying it an older sales person there asked me about my buy and I told him what I bought and for what it would be used for and he said, "I wouldn't tighten it all the wat to 45 pounds with that! Set it at 25 and go with that. I'm not to sure if these torque wrenches are very accurate and I would be careful. You can practice tightening it and eventually you will learn to feel what the 45 pounds or 5nm feel like."

    I will work on adjusting the seat next.

    Just get a park beam style wrench that goes up to 8nm, you can get it from Amazon.
  • 02-01-2012
    Jammerjam
    Any advice on Litespeed Sewanee? I have been thinking about buying a 2012 but it's $4200 MSRP.
  • 02-01-2012
    Jammerjam
    [QUOTE=Jammerjam;3760191]Any advice on Litespeed Sewanee? I have been thinking about buying a 2012 but it's $4200 MSRP.

    This is a replacement bike for my 1998 Owl Hollow Litespeed. The frame cracked for the third time and this time Litespeed won't honor their warranty. I guess it's just too old.
  • 02-01-2012
    jaimemmm
    no thanks.
  • 03-03-2012
    sr20det510
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quick update:

    Had the bike for 7-8 weeks and so far I am loving it!
    No flats FTW!
    Feels very solid.
    Shifters loosing up and everything seems to be working ok!


    My girlfriend got me some Speedplay Zero stainless after I mentioned that I was thinking of getting some. I had taken them off my list just cause I hate the fact that they never seem to be on sale.

    Was planning on ordering some shimano ultegra pedals, but I guess I'll have to use the Speedplays instead :D