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Thread: Hdmi

  1. #1
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    Hdmi

    Surf most big box sites and you'll see a wide price range for HDMI.

    I plan on buying 6 within the week to hook up devices (all but one were purchased after 2017). This is what cNet said.

    https://www.cnet.com/news/cheap-hdmi...your-new-4k-tv

    No matter how much you spend on your new 4K HDR TV, you donít need expensive HDMI cables for it to work.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akirasho View Post
    No matter how much you spend on your new 4K HDR TV, you donít need expensive HDMI cables for it to work.
    Define "expensive"

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Ross View Post
    Define "expensive"
    https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioqu...?skuId=5794301

    Vs

    https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6...?skuId=7525078

    even though different lengths...

  4. #4
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    I think that anybody who thinks that a $100 HDMI cable is "worth it" spends to much time in front of their devices, what ever the devices are.
    Too old to ride plastic

  5. #5
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    Check out Monoprice

    scott s
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akirasho View Post
    Surf most big box sites and you'll see a wide price range for HDMI.

    I plan on buying 6 within the week to hook up devices (all but one were purchased after 2017). This is what cNet said.

    https://www.cnet.com/news/cheap-hdmi...your-new-4k-tv

    No matter how much you spend on your new 4K HDR TV, you donít need expensive HDMI cables for it to work.

    Thoughts?
    HDMI uses digital signals. Thing about digital, it either works or doesnít. A cleaner 1 or 0 will not do a damn thing for quality. I have expensive AV equipment but inexpensive HDMI cables. Spend the money where it counts.

    edit: If you are passing 4k HDR etc, you do need high speed cable capable of 18ghz. This does not mean expensive though. You can find these for $10 depending on size.
    Last edited by drj564; 2 Weeks Ago at 05:31 AM.

  7. #7
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    Yes, but it's still passing an electrical signal. Lots of stuff can enter into, or affect, how well that electrical signal is transmitted, or get carried along with that digital signal, like electrical hash or distortion. 1's and 0's get transmitted by optical as well, but if there's an issue with the glass or structure of that optical, it can effect how well that signal gets transmitted. Often either it goes through or doesn't, but there could also be subtle degradations that you'll never know about.


    I never used to be a big believer in cable differences, and still have heavily biased o\toward there being a cost/benefit analysis to be made. But I am a believer in there being a minimum standard that can be met, and you do get what you pay for.


    I've used cheapie HDMI. Bought some Audioquest Pearls, their entry lever that are no longer made, but which you can still find around. I thought they made a noticeable enough difference. Upgraded from those to the Audioquest Cinnamons, primarily for cosmetic reasons, as I liked the cloth braided jackets they used. Picture quality didn't seem to change much, but the audio did improve a bit, like having an extra layer of grime peeled away from a window.


    I could see possibly spending the extra money to move up to their Chocolate, Carbon, or maybe even Vodka series, if I ever had that sort of disposable income, but I'll probably stick with the Cinnamons, which are quite nice indeed.
    "Damn. Y'all murdered the sh*t out that mutherf***er"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    I think that anybody who thinks that a $100 HDMI cable is "worth it" spends to much time in front of their devices, what ever the devices are.
    Yes. Which is why its worth it.
    "Damn. Y'all murdered the sh*t out that mutherf***er"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rufus View Post
    Yes, but it's still passing an electrical signal. Lots of stuff can enter into, or affect, how well that electrical signal is transmitted. 1's and 0's get transmitted by optical as well, but if there's an issue with the glass or structure of that optical, it can effect how well that signal gets transmitted. Often either it goes through or doesn't, but there could also be subtle degradations that you'll never know about.


    I never used to be a big believer in cable differences, and still have heavily biased o\toward there being a cost/benefit analysis to be made. But I am a believer in there being a minimum standard that can be met, and you do get what you pay for.


    I've used cheapie HDMI. Bought some Audioquest Pearls, their entry lever that are no longer made, but which you can still find around. I thought they made a noticeable enough difference. Upgraded from those to the Audioquest Cinnamons, primarily for cosmetic reasons, as I liked the cloth braided jackets they used. Picture quality didn't seem to change much, but the audio did improve a bit, like having an extra layer of grime peeled away from a window.


    I could see possibly spending the extra money to move up to their Chocolate, Carbon, or maybe even Vodka series, if I ever had that sort of disposable income, but I'll probably stick with the Cinnamons, which are quite nice indeed.
    Over normal home theater distances, with post rev1.4 HDMI....non issue for consumer uses. Now, old early HDMI is a different story....idiot standard bungled by idiots. Could get snowflaking over short runs due to HDMI not having error correction built in. Derp.

    Now....if you're doing a show like Cirque du Soleil Toruk with 50x+ short-throw HD computer projectors (projector alone retails for $100,000USD each, nvm the lens barrel) and a few miles of cabling needed from projectors to server farm....different story.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  10. #10
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    All of my audio equipment is pre digital analog (save for an early digital tuner which may work with different protocols than today) and I am keen to provide "decent" interfaces with it. At one point, I was seriously (and who knows, may still) considering having the original designer of my SAE equipment rebuild said with "upgrades" including a healthy dose of gold plating (which would have been tons cheaper 40 years ago when the stuff was new).

    A true audiophile bud of mine often uses premium wire throughout as well as power conditioners and such with "audible" differences, however, I think that the visual media is more forgiving and without side by side comparisons, might be noticed (as much). So. I'm going cheap for two reasons.

    One: It's cheap
    Two: It moves things along to at least a proof of concept

    As mentioned, since all but one of the connections are digital (one will be converted to analog, then back to digital) and I either get the signal or no, and it's over a very short run with little chance of outside interference, cheapo will keep me happy until proven otherwise (which means, if an opportunity arrises to test a high end cable, I'll prolly take it).

    Hell, I'm still gonna try to run an old VHS signal into the new set.

  11. #11
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    Save money on lower priced quality digital cables (e.g. monoprice). Spend money on having tv professionally calibrated. Spend time on cable management.

    Spending money on power conditioning may help as well. After running both my Dish STB and TV through a Furman, my calibrated picture further improved. As always, YMMV.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by drj564 View Post
    HDMI uses digital signals. Thing about digital, it either works or doesnít. A cleaner 1 or 0 will not do a damn thing for quality. I have expensive AV equipment but inexpensive HDMI cables. Spend the money where it counts.

    edit: If you are passing 4k HDR etc, you do need high speed cable capable of 18ghz. This does not mean expensive though. You can find these for $10 depending on size.
    I can't agree with this statement. Digital signalling is not some magic. Each bit that is transmitted from the source has to be correctly received by the sink. That means the clocks in both source and sink have to be able to sync on the data stream. The data stream itself has to be sensed as a voltage or current. I haven't looked at the HDMI spec in a long time, but normally there is some error correction provided that can compensate for some errors in reading bits, but error correction won't fix everything.

    Cable run length is important. The longer the cable, the more likely for signal degradation and clock skew / jitter. For 3 or 6 foot cables probably not much to worry about. When you start to get longer than that you need to be more careful.

    The problem in general is there is much marketing BS compared to actual engineering and price is not a good indicator of quality.

    scott s.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rufus View Post
    Yes, but it's still passing an electrical signal. Lots of stuff can enter into, or affect, how well that electrical signal is transmitted, or get carried along with that digital signal, like electrical hash or distortion. 1's and 0's get transmitted by optical as well, but if there's an issue with the glass or structure of that optical, it can effect how well that signal gets transmitted. Often either it goes through or doesn't, but there could also be subtle degradations that you'll never know about.
    The reason for never knowing about is because it's too subtle to be noticeable.

    I never used to be a big believer in cable differences, and still have heavily biased o\toward there being a cost/benefit analysis to be made. But I am a believer in there being a minimum standard that can be met, and you do get what you pay for.
    In today's electronics, the minimum connection cable standards can be met at minimum price.

    I've used cheapie HDMI. Bought some Audioquest Pearls, their entry lever that are no longer made, but which you can still find around. I thought they made a noticeable enough difference.
    There are people who thought that changing their cycling shoes color to red made them faster. To validate such claim, one would have to conduct an objective A/B comparison, such as double blind test.

    Upgraded from those to the Audioquest Cinnamons, primarily for cosmetic reasons,
    For looks, anything goes.

    as I liked the cloth braided jackets they used. Picture quality didn't seem to change much, but the audio did improve a bit, like having an extra layer of grime peeled away from a window.
    I've been searching for over a decade but still haven't heard of any evidence drawn from objective tests that supports such improvement claim.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott967 View Post
    I can't agree with this statement. Digital signalling is not some magic. Each bit that is transmitted from the source has to be correctly received by the sink. That means the clocks in both source and sink have to be able to sync on the data stream. The data stream itself has to be sensed as a voltage or current. I haven't looked at the HDMI spec in a long time, but normally there is some error correction provided that can compensate for some errors in reading bits, but error correction won't fix everything.

    Cable run length is important. The longer the cable, the more likely for signal degradation and clock skew / jitter. For 3 or 6 foot cables probably not much to worry about. When you start to get longer than that you need to be more careful.

    The problem in general is there is much marketing BS compared to actual engineering and price is not a good indicator of quality.

    scott s.
    .
    Jitter hasn't been an audible problem for over 10 years even among the entry level digital audio components. IOW, it's been solved.

  15. #15
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    FYI, I ordered Dynex from BB. Should be here Friday.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akirasho View Post
    FYI, I ordered Dynex from BB. Should be here Friday.
    Sorry, a little late to the party. bvber comments has it pretty much covered. The only thing I would like to add is that for 4K HDR, I look for cables that include the "HDMI Certified" sticker. Virtually everyone these days claims to be able to support 18Gbs, but some plain and simply don't support this speed, as you can find evidence of in any number of HT forums. The HDMI certification program gives some independent validation to the marketing claims. There are numerous cheaply priced "HDMI Certified" cables out there. Marketing claims aside, a more expensive HDMI will not perform any better than a certified cable.

  17. #17
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    OK, here is a "brief" synopsis:

    Until recently, I've been using my old Sony 27" for the past 22 years.

    With 4 separate digital decoders, I've kept the Sony alive along with the ability to record different over the air programming via USB & external drives.

    While decoders have HDMI, signals were routed to Sony via RCA and antenna via an old VCR (this allowed 3 RCA connection and one RF to the Sony).


    New TV has RCA, antenna (RF) and 3 HDMI thus my goal was to connect decoders directly and eventually remove Sony and VCR from this loop. Dynex arrived today and initial hookup of one decoder looks good (I wanted to assure I was on the right track before hooking all).

    Indeed, as configured (my TV does not allow recording thru USB) I won't even use the set's onboard tuner (no cable). And while the TV does support playback through USB, the decoder's playback is far superior (TV uses 10+ second blocks for fast forward and rewind while decoder is much closer to near frame by frame of a VCR).


    Summary. Cheap Dynex working. Will update if necessary.

  18. #18
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    Someone else mentioned this, but if you aren't buying cable at monoprice.com, you are probably doing it wrong...

    https://www.monoprice.com/search/ind...rd=HDMI+Cables

    Seriously...

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