Irrigation system for planter boxes
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  1. #1
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    Irrigation system for planter boxes

    Building two 4x6 planter boxes in the yard for my wife, belated Christmas present...

    I've got a trench already dug where the boxes are going to be, my original plan was to have pipes come up vertically through the center of each box. Any reason not to do this?

    Then, depending on what's being grown in the box, use the appropriate head on top (drip system, sprinkler head, etc)...

    Again, the trenches are already dug. The question is just where to have the lines come up.

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    I have 7 beds similar to what you describe. I brought all of my risers up along the edge of each box, put an elbow and ball valve at the top, and then connected various lateral lines and spray heads/soaker hoses to them. That way I can easily adjust the flow to an individual bed without reaching into the middle of it and can easily swap out whatever drip/spray/soaker lines depending on what I plant in any bed each year.

  3. #3
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    I've got lots of raised beds and, similar to dir-t, I ran the irrigation pipes up the inside edge of the beds (through the gopher wire mesh at the bottom). On each box is a shut-off valve, and the drips are just screwed in, so I can change the drips fairly easily.

    And dir-t's point is good: you want the lines on the sides of the beds for easy accessibility.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the feedback, folks... definitely leaning towards edge of box now, probably outside edge.

    Underground pipe is 3/4, should I use 3/4 vertical piping and then swith to 1/2 for in the box or just use 1/2 for risers?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdog9 View Post
    Underground pipe is 3/4, should I use 3/4 vertical piping and then swith to 1/2 for in the box or just use 1/2 for risers?
    It doesn't matter because eventually you're stepping down to the smaller diameter and you also get a constriction at whatever drip/spray head you're using.

    It's not a city-wide sewer system with lots of topography to worry about. You just need an outlet(s) that's smaller than your main lines to maintain enough pressure to spray / drip evenly over the bed. In fact, that's why I recommend a ball valve at the riser - you'll probably want to reduce the pressure a lot more than you think in order to not flood the bed - assuming this it on an automatic sprinkler system rather than attached to your hose bib / spigot in which case you can reduce your pressure by turning the down that dial at your house.

  6. #6
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    Thanks, just realized the section in question has already been reduced to 1/2 and it'd be hell for me to change it so there you go.

  7. #7
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    Too late, but: I use Netafim (sp?) drip lines, whose connectors are 3/4" threaded. I like these much more than little drips - easier to manage and see. They use in-line drips, spaced 12" or 18" apart, and at either .9 or .6 GPH. I use 12" spacings, and I generally run four lines in three-foot wide beds. Works for just about any veggies.

    Not a fan of sprinklers for veggies. I hand-water babies.

    As to pressure: one pressure reducer, underground, for a whole row of raised beds. I have, essentially, two rows, about 150 running feet of three-foot wide beds in each row.

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