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  1. #1
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    For teh lounje

    I've got a couple questions...I very well might pull the trigger first thing tomorrow, so pardon me asking here and in "hot deals"

    First off, how does the fit and sizing compare to, say a Cannondale, Kona, or Surly? I've been sized on a 58cm Cannondale, but 54 to 56 on a Surly and a Kona.

    Second off, how much does shipping add to the total cost?

    Finally, has Nashbar fixed their credit card problems and whatnots? Is there any reason for me to be extra worried about buying from 'em?
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  2. #2
    Born from Jorts®
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    fiirts

  3. #3
    jd3
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    Go to the factory websites for those brands and compare their geometry charts and see how the sizes compare. I suspect that you were sized by different people and the difference lies with the opinions of the fitters.
    “You can't control the wind, but you can adjust your sails.” – Albert Einstein

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fuji

    Finally, has Nashbar fixed their credit card problems and whatnots? Is there any reason for me to be extra worried about buying from 'em?

    I hope so i ordered from them recently
    Quote Originally Posted by azpeterb
    I see. So the "Information Superhighway" has a bike lane then? Cool!

  5. #5
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    Well
    Most Cannondale frames that I see on their website in size 58 are 57.5 top tube, which puts you right between the 56 and the 59 Nashbar touring frame.
    http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng...0RA96T-CAAD9-6


    I'm confused on the Kona sizing though, since a 56 Kona uses a 55cm top tube,granted, very sloping.
    http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=zing

    I don't know a ton about geometry, but I wanted to post some stuff so maybe someone that does understand geometry can help a little.

    So, I'd guess you'd be on a 56cm and run some spacers for comfort and experiment wit hthe stem length. But thats just a wild guess.

  6. #6
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    Thanks all. I was leaning more toward the 56cm Nashbar frame, but just wanted some more 'informed' opinions on the matter.

    Does anybody have an approximation as to how much Nashbar charges to ship a frame?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fuji
    Does anybody have an approximation as to how much Nashbar charges to ship a frame?
    i know it probably depends on location, and distance from the warehouse, but is it generally $10 or $25 or $100?

    edit:
    wound up being $18
    Last edited by old_fuji; 03-02-2010 at 02:26 PM.
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  8. #8
    Fat'r + Slow'r than TMB
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    Just make sure it is red. Red is faster, NASA proved it.
    Just fast enough to know I am slow.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyphix
    Well
    Most Cannondale frames that I see on their website in size 58 are 57.5 top tube, which puts you right between the 56 and the 59 Nashbar touring frame.
    http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng...0RA96T-CAAD9-6


    I'm confused on the Kona sizing though, since a 56 Kona uses a 55cm top tube,granted, very sloping.
    http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=zing

    I don't know a ton about geometry, but I wanted to post some stuff so maybe someone that does understand geometry can help a little.

    So, I'd guess you'd be on a 56cm and run some spacers for comfort and experiment wit hthe stem length. But thats just a wild guess.
    Oh, I forgot to add that I did wind up ordering the 56cm. Comparing HT, ST, DT, all the angles, and everything else to the Cannondale CAAD9 that I test rode, it seemed the 56cm Nashbar was the closest in everything. The 58mm frame compared closest to the Synapse, actually...I preferred the feel of the CAAD over the Synapse.

    gosh I'm so excited about this
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  10. #10
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    Awesome! Can't wait to see the build. That frame has always intrigued me as a potentially cheap way to have a nice commuter.

  11. #11
    your text here
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    let teh lounge know how it builds out. i love the green of that frame, but cant pull the trigger.

    wish it had more horizontal dropouts...
    I don't normally "do people." - Dr. Roebuck

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by weltyed
    let teh lounge know how it builds out. i love the green of that frame, but cant pull the trigger.

    wish it had more horizontal dropouts...
    i'm not a huge fan of the green, actually. i'm sure it'll look fine once i get everything, and put everything all together, but my instincts tell me it needs more chrome.

    does chain do chrome stickers?
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  13. #13
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    anyone know if the nashbar frame has bosses for disk brakes?
    i'm kinda tossing around the idea of getting some 29'er MTB wheels instead of road rims.
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  14. #14
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    Well, I finally got to check out the bike today. I bought it on spring break, but neglected to send it to my address at school. It really is a stunning color, not gonna lie. Even though the paint quality is a little shoddy (I've noticed some uneven finish in some spots, and a drip or two), it's a very deep green. I've been taking inventory of parts I have and parts I need...I have a bottom bracket, 105 cranks, and 2 sets of brakes (I'll use the ones that work best). I do have derailleurs, but the rear needs new pulleys, so I'm not sure it's worth the trouble since it's pretty old.

    My plan for this build is to build it up as cheaply and quickly as possible, just to get something ridable this summer, then upgrade to a full-on Apex bike in the fall.
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  15. #15
    your text here
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    pics or it didnt happen
    I don't normally "do people." - Dr. Roebuck

  16. #16
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    Bump!
    No pics, as the frame is at the LBS having a headset installed.

    Component-wise, the derailleurs I thought I had wouldn't work...The clamp size is too small for the front one, and the rear is just plain wore out.

    Bottom bracket is installed, cranks are not. I picked up a used wheelset (Weinmann rims with Shimano hubs), suspension seatpost, and Specialized BG saddle.

    I like the idea of a SRAM Apex groupset, although I've never used double-tap before. I might pick up a Microshift grouppo from Performance or something as well.

    Stuff I still need:
    Tires, tubes, handlebars (and bar tape), drivetrain
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  17. #17
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    S'aboot freggin' time, eh?

    Quote Originally Posted by weltyed
    pics or it didnt happen
    Would teaser pics count?

    I'm a little pissed that it's taking this friggin' long to build this friggin' bike, but most of that is due to really weird circumstances in getting all the parts in the same location at the same time

    Still need to get pedals, put the brakes together, install the chain, and wrap the bars...Then, get everything dialed in hopefully soon enough to break it all in on a CX track.
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fuji
    break it all in on a CX track.
    might want to choose a different word than 'break', esp. with those fancy new shifters.
    I love the sound of cowbell in the morning.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bopApocalypse
    might want to choose a different word than 'break', esp. with those fancy new shifters.
    Get the bike accustomed to being ridden? Calibrate all the parts? Sync the bike within itself?
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  20. #20
    p != b
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fuji
    Get the bike accustomed to being ridden? Calibrate all the parts? Sync the bike within itself?
    anything other than 'break'.

    unless you like fixing bikes, than by all means.
    I love the sound of cowbell in the morning.

  21. #21
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    I ride Fuji's.....just thought you should know.

    Kbye.

  22. #22
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    Wow, what a thread! 10 years later, I finally upgraded to a saddle that doesn't feel like an ass hatchet after 15 miles...I purchased a Brooks C-17, took it for a small 10 mile ride yesterday, and I'm pleasantly surprised that I can sit on chairs today!

    I bought the frame back in 2010, spent the following summer and fall buying parts and building it piecemeal, and have struggled with the saddle ever since. I started out using a Bontrager RL saddle, which was decent enough, but honestly, wasn't comfortable on rides longer than 20 miles. After a few years (post-college weight gain), that saddle became incredibly uncomfortable, even on little tiny rides of 3-5 miles. So, I swapped it out for a Selle Italia Tri-matic that was uncomfortable in different ways, until earlier this year when I learned how to level the saddle out on the seatpost. But even still, it left me sore for days afterward, which made multiple rides per week a literal pain in the ass.

    I'm very happy with the Brooks thus far - it passed the 5 and 10 mile thresholds, and I'm looking forward to finally trying it on some longer rides.
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fuji View Post
    Wow, what a thread! 10 years later, I finally upgraded to a saddle that doesn't feel like an ass hatchet after 15 miles...I purchased a Brooks C-17, took it for a small 10 mile ride yesterday, and I'm pleasantly surprised that I can sit on chairs today!
    Brooks C-17 is a great saddle.
    Last edited by EverydayRide; 05-12-2020 at 01:09 AM.

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