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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by George M View Post
    I couldn't get the wire fished in and I thought I was hitting the shell of the BB, so the bike shop said to bring it in. I finally got some of the old cable and pushed it in from the bottom and a bunch of dirt came out first and then the cable. That made me happy, as I like to do everything myself. I thought about putting some grease in the hole to keep the dirt out, but I thought the grease would catch more dirt.

    I'm thinking about using all Shimano components now. That's cable, chains and whatever else I need. I've been using KMC chains and I understand that they make Shimano chains as well.

    My 2007 had a small white hose in the bb, to fish your cable through.
    I much prefer the newer design. You must ride your bike in real muddy conditions for that hole...see arrow below...to become solid dirt or mud. The newer design shown below is easy to set up and lower friction than 'that piece of hose' which is really a segment of cable housing attached to the front derailleur.

    The cable guide on the newer SL3/4 bikes is a solid straw or conduit for that particular hole for front derailleur routing that pokes all the way through the BB. You should never let it get that contaminated of course but you know that as it will dramatically degrade front shifting. If you ever need to knock the dirt of it in the future:
    1. remove the cable the bike.
    2. invert the bike and set the bike on the handlebar hoods and saddle.
    3. Cut a section of thin coat hanger and poke it straight through. Yes you can use an old cable as well but it won't have the spine/compression strength of a coat hanger.
    Have fun.
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    Last edited by roadworthy; 02-24-2014 at 02:00 PM.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadworthy View Post
    I much prefer the newer design. You must ride your bike in real muddy conditions for that hole...see arrow below...to become solid dirt or mud.
    I wonder though, why expose the bare derailleur cable to the elements right in that one spot? It seems kind of crazy to internally route the cables all the way and then remove the cable housing in the lowest spot on the bike. Why not shield the cable from the elements there with a run of cable housing? It can't be good for cable life to expose it continuously to dirt/water in that spot. I guess it didn't matter with external cable routing but I wonder why bike manufacturers still do it with ICR?

  3. #28
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    Specialized Road Questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dunbar View Post
    I wonder though, why expose the bare derailleur cable to the elements right in that one spot? It seems kind of crazy to internally route the cables all the way and then remove the cable housing in the lowest spot on the bike. Why not shield the cable from the elements there with a run of cable housing? It can't be good for cable life to expose it continuously to dirt/water in that spot. I guess it didn't matter with external cable routing but I wonder why bike manufacturers still do it with ICR?
    probably water drainage?

    The locations at the top tube isn't 100% sealed, so moisture will get into the frame
    2010 Specialized Secteur Elite with the RBR not-approved Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheelset
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er upgraded to SRAM X9 with 1x10 and Stan's Arch EX rims and tubeless.
    2013 Cannondale CAADX-6 Tiagra with 9-speed SLX RD to run 11-32T cassette and Stan's Alpha 400 rims and tubeless
    and
    Some Burton snowboard setups, one with stiff ol' Camber and one with Rocker-Camber-Rocker

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadworthy View Post
    There is NOTHING problematic about Specialized SL3 internal cable routing that contributes to poor shifting. Your problem could lie elsewhere....

    Great post on troubleshooting, and a sad commentary on what is passed on these days as customer service.

    On my last Roubaix it was fortunate I had access to the tools and gauges needed. I figured my Campy wheelset was not the problem, and was correct on that. The derailleur hanger it seems is easy to go out of whack, and in this case simple to put right.

    Can't wait to get Roubaix #2 built up. Injuries find me coming back to familiar handling, and the tall HT. Contact points are taken care of, and everything else is in transit.
    Last edited by Zampano; 02-24-2014 at 09:30 PM.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dunbar View Post
    I wonder though, why expose the bare derailleur cable to the elements right in that one spot? It seems kind of crazy to internally route the cables all the way and then remove the cable housing in the lowest spot on the bike. Why not shield the cable from the elements there with a run of cable housing? It can't be good for cable life to expose it continuously to dirt/water in that spot. I guess it didn't matter with external cable routing but I wonder why bike manufacturers still do it with ICR?
    They do it with ICR because there is no way to route the cable from the front of the bike through the rear drive side chainstay without an intermediate window to both front and rear sections of bike. Virtually every road bike sold in the last 20 years has had a cable guide rub plate right under the bike that is exposed. In fact if a late model Specialized or any bike gets this cable guide dirty, it will degrade shifting because it adds friction. It is not a bad idea to scrub the cable guide with a firm bristle brush...with cables in place....with some soapy water from time to time in fact. I recommend you doing this with the bike in normal position to let gravity be your friend and not get water into the frame. Also, lubricating the guide is a false benefit...will attract dirt faster and degrade shifting faster. Flipping the bike over and inspecting this area after a few months of riding is never a bad idea. Mine got pretty dirty down there after a season of riding and front derailleur shifting wasn't as low of effort. I do a complete bike tear down every year. Don't even have to change the cables...just remove them and clean them. Also clean regrease BB and headset etc. Check derailleur alignment. These bikes only need a little TLC. Cable routing and shift performance is just superb on SL3/SL4 Specialized bikes. If it isn't, as discussed, it has nothing to do with the bike itself. But as with any bike, if the cable guide gets dirty, there will be higher cable friction for both derailleurs.
    Last edited by roadworthy; 02-25-2014 at 03:17 AM.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zampano View Post
    Great post on troubleshooting, and a sad commentary on what is passed on these days as customer service.

    On my last Roubaix it was fortunate I had access to the tools and gauges needed. I figured my Campy wheelset was not the problem, and was correct on that. The derailleur hanger it seems is easy to go out of whack, and in this case simple to put right.

    Can't wait to get Roubaix #2 built up. Injuries find me coming back to familiar handling, and the tall HT. Contact points are taken care of, and everything else is in transit.
    Thanks for the kind words. Yes, Campy and Sram groupsets shift great on these bikes because of decent derailleur spring rate unlike balky 6700/7900 which Shimano resolved with new Ultegra/DA which are both outstanding.
    What Roubaix are you going to build up and with what groupset and wheels?
    I am thinking about replacing Campy on my bike with new 11s Ultegra Di2.
    Btw, I prefer the handling and tall head tube of the Roubaix as well because of my flexibility. The bike is still very fast and have no problem keeping up with slammed bikes and even ride with TT guys from time to time. The Roubaix is an amazing bike.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tednugent View Post
    probably water drainage?

    The locations at the top tube isn't 100% sealed, so moisture will get into the frame
    Yup...that and cable access/internal routing between front and back of the bike.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadworthy View Post
    Thanks for the kind words. Yes, Campy and Sram groupsets shift great on these bikes because of decent derailleur spring rate unlike balky 6700/7900 which Shimano resolved with new Ultegra/DA which are both outstanding.
    What Roubaix are you going to build up and with what groupset and wheels?
    I am thinking about replacing Campy on my bike with new 11s Ultegra Di2.
    Btw, I prefer the handling and tall head tube of the Roubaix as well because of my flexibility. The bike is still very fast and have no problem keeping up with slammed bikes and even ride with TT guys from time to time. The Roubaix is an amazing bike.


    The new Roubaix will be nothing special, just a solid road bike. It's a 2013 Comp frame, with a solid custom DT wheelset, and a Campy Veloce group.

    I'll use it to explore whether or not I can ride roadbikes at all. Then if all goes well, I'll do the 2015 Cycle To The Sun in Haleakala Maui.

  9. #34
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    @mcwenzel

    I'm really sorry to hear about the shifting saga on your bike-I understand how frustrating that can be for both you and the shop. We are aware of shifting issues on the Roubaix SL3 that affected some users.
    We made a revised ICR entry kit as well as a revised BB cable guide kit that solved most issues. Do you know if you the shop installed those parts?

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcwenzel View Post
    I appreciate the response but we had the same discussion two years ago and my bike still does not shift properly. My bike shop is one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country with multiple locations and I have had it worked on by multiple people in multiple locations. I have given them the bulletin and even printed out our prior discussion on this exact issue with the California Cross. The bike has had the cables redone multiple times. I have had managers and head mechanics at different locations involved because of the ongoing problem.

    The head mechanic at one location told me he has seen tons of problems with the 2011 SL3 and it's a known issue with some frames.

    I guess it's possible that all the mechanics at three different locations of one of the largest Specialized dealers in the country can't set the bike up correctly but it seems highly unlikely to me.
    I have a 2012 Roubaix SL3, SRAM Force, and I had similar RD shifting issues. Guess what? The guys who did the original setup had a waaay too short cable housing going out of the chainstay and into the RD. I had somebody but in a big, loopy cable housing...problem solved...
    Go big, or take up bowling...

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadworthy View Post
    Joe,
    Love your products.
    Have to ask about the new COBL seatpost which directionally is great concept and maybe the future of more rigid rear triangle with compliancy built into the seatpost. But why in the world did the engineers go with a single Pave style bolt spec'ed at 10 ft-lbs to keep in place? A disappointment. I rode the Pave post with identical single bolt and it would lose its tilt adjustment on rough roads. Tell your chief engineer he should have made it 2 bolt like all other top seatposts on the market including Specialized very own 2 bolt seatpost. Your engineers could have easily made it a 2 bolt micro adjustable post that would never lose adjustment and be adjusted with lower torque.

    Please let me know if you would convey my thoughts. I am a mechanical engineer btw.
    Cheers and welcome to the forum.
    Thanks for the warm welcome! I have passed on your concerns about the single bolt post to the engineering team.
    If the Pave post is setup properly and torqued to the correct value then it shouldn't be slipping on you; if it does slip you should contact your shop and Specialized Customer Service about a warranty.
    The new C-GR post really is a game changer for riding on rough surfaces and we've done plenty of testing to ensure the clamp on these posts is secure while riding over rough terrain.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ornoth View Post
    Sorry to beat a dead horse, but... Rim brake options on all models, please.
    Are you saying that you'd like rim brake options on all the road bikes?

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumper8888 View Post
    Now there is a good guess. And Venge Evo under Cav for TDF?

    Oddly, I suspect Joe isn't going to answer that one, not smart marketing.

    Here's a better one: Joe, can you guys make just one thing that DOENST fit well?
    I'm sick of looking like a fan boy. The shoes, even the damn helmets, seem made for me. Something has to go.

    I can't really comment on our unreleased products. I'll leave that for you all to speculate

    And yes, our equipment team really produces some top notch products, I'm glad you like 'em!

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadworthy View Post
    It is not a bad idea to scrub the cable guide with a firm bristle brush...with cables in place....with some soapy water from time to time in fact.
    I think I'll start doing this with a toothbrush every 2-3 weeks when I wash the bike. I took a look at mine last night and with ~2500 miles on the cables they were noticeably dirty.

    I can see the point of having a drain for the frame in that spot. But the cables/housings are so tight that I don't you need to expose them there for drainage purposes.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Specialized_Joe View Post
    @mcwenzel

    I'm really sorry to hear about the shifting saga on your bike-I understand how frustrating that can be for both you and the shop. We are aware of shifting issues on the Roubaix SL3 that affected some users.
    We made a revised ICR entry kit as well as a revised BB cable guide kit that solved most issues. Do you know if you the shop installed those parts?
    Thanks - I will check and see if these parts have been installed.

  16. #41
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    I second a desire for Speedplay specific shoes but I would be happy if Specialized at least had their road shoes in stock.
    I have a 2014 Roubaix Expert which is a great bike but I am not real happy with the wheels. At this price point I think Specialized cheaped out on rims and hubs. The rims have a noticeable seam which thumped when I brake and in general do not match the quality of the rest of the components. i replaced them with custom wheels with Ultegra hubs and Hed C2 rims.
    Also not thrilled with the FSA crank instead of Ultegra.
    Also why on earth is the only Roubaix with Ultegra Di2 a disc brake bike? Really odd to me and I would have probably bought a Di2 Roubaix instead of mechanical even though mechanical 6800 is really good. I almost bought another brand because of this. Introduction of disc brake bikes while denying your customers Di2 Ultegra sounds more like Specialized serving their needs instead of their customers.
    Would like to see a Secteur with Ultegra like the Allez with Ultegra.
    Bonus for the SL 4 in all ranges instead of higher end. I did not buy a Specialized bike previously because the only frames I liked were the higher end and I thought the price was too high compared to other alternatives like Giant that were just as good but cheaper. I am not all that price sensitive but felt the price was too high and smacked of gouging on the previous higher end frames.
    I will repeat that Specialized seems to have major issues with keeping items in stock. People can't buy your products if you don't have them to sell so i wonder what is up with your supply chain management.


    Quote Originally Posted by Specialized_Joe View Post
    Absolutely. I think Speedplay pedals offer a lot of performance advantages...you never know, maybe we'll do something in the future!
    Plenty of riders use our shoes with their pedals and it works great, so don't let the lack of a specific shoe stop you
    2015 Specialized Tarmac, Ultegra 6800, HED C2 rims
    2014 Specialized Roubaix Expert, Ultegra 6800, HED C 2 rims.
    2012 Giant Defy Advanced 2, Ultegra, Pacenti SL 23 rims.
    Moots VaMoots, Dura-Ace, Pacenti SL 23 rims

  17. #42
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    Regarding that post...I was told by my LBS that there is a weight limit on it of 220 lbs. Accurate?

    Quote Originally Posted by Specialized_Joe View Post
    Thanks for the warm welcome! I have passed on your concerns about the single bolt post to the engineering team.
    If the Pave post is setup properly and torqued to the correct value then it shouldn't be slipping on you; if it does slip you should contact your shop and Specialized Customer Service about a warranty.
    The new C-GR post really is a game changer for riding on rough surfaces and we've done plenty of testing to ensure the clamp on these posts is secure while riding over rough terrain.
    2015 Specialized Tarmac, Ultegra 6800, HED C2 rims
    2014 Specialized Roubaix Expert, Ultegra 6800, HED C 2 rims.
    2012 Giant Defy Advanced 2, Ultegra, Pacenti SL 23 rims.
    Moots VaMoots, Dura-Ace, Pacenti SL 23 rims

  18. #43
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    Seconded.

    Quote Originally Posted by ornoth View Post
    Sorry to beat a dead horse, but... Rim brake options on all models, please.
    2015 Specialized Tarmac, Ultegra 6800, HED C2 rims
    2014 Specialized Roubaix Expert, Ultegra 6800, HED C 2 rims.
    2012 Giant Defy Advanced 2, Ultegra, Pacenti SL 23 rims.
    Moots VaMoots, Dura-Ace, Pacenti SL 23 rims

  19. #44
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    I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.

    More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A complete group.

    Stop making wheels. If someone wants $2200 60mm deep clinchers they will pay the extra money and go with the wheel experts like Zipp, HED and ENVE.

    I really do not need a speedplay specific shoe but its been almost a year and inventory on S-Works shoes, the Evade helmet and many of your frames has been out of stock for almost a year. You have virtually no S-Works Venge left in the warehouse, which tells me either an SL5 is on the way or somethings wrong.

    Still, I am the proud owner of your S-Works Venge, S-Works shoes, even the 74's and the S-Works Evade in all black (which is not available in Europe for whatever reasoning) so I can't complain personally, but I would have made you more money if these things were available because I have lots of people who are interested, but wont miss another season over it.
    carbonLORD.com

  20. #45
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    Bingo. Specialized has lost sales to me in the past because of this practice. It's is also kind of an insult that they think people buying in this price range don't know these things and what they are doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by carbonLORD View Post
    I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.
    More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A complete group.
    2015 Specialized Tarmac, Ultegra 6800, HED C2 rims
    2014 Specialized Roubaix Expert, Ultegra 6800, HED C 2 rims.
    2012 Giant Defy Advanced 2, Ultegra, Pacenti SL 23 rims.
    Moots VaMoots, Dura-Ace, Pacenti SL 23 rims

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonLORD View Post
    I agree with these statements. Specialized up prices the frames so a complete is a better bargain, but then cheaps out by offering Ultergra gropsets that are not a complete group. Sneaking in a 105 cassette and some FSA cranks.

    More feedback, no one wants a FSA crank! People want an Ultegra crank and a matching cassette. A complete group.

    Stop making wheels. If someone wants $2200 60mm deep clinchers they will pay the extra money and go with the wheel experts like Zipp, HED and ENVE.

    I really do not need a speedplay specific shoe but its been almost a year and inventory on S-Works shoes, the Evade helmet and many of your frames has been out of stock for almost a year. You have virtually no S-Works Venge left in the warehouse, which tells me either an SL5 is on the way or somethings wrong.

    Still, I am the proud owner of your S-Works Venge, S-Works shoes, even the 74's and the S-Works Evade in all black (which is not available in Europe for whatever reasoning) so I can't complain personally, but I would have made you more money if these things were available because I have lots of people who are interested, but wont miss another season over it.
    Could not agree more on having the matching groupset. It cannot cost that much more to have the ultegra crank and brakes. I see that with alot of the bike builders and i just dont get it. I will disagree with you on the wheels they are solid and work well and if you buy them at the right price even better!

  22. #47
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    Yep and I won't buy those bikes either. At Ultegra level I want the whole thing. Giant delivered this to me and Specialized did this year on the 2014 Roubaix except for crank. I didn't like last years wheels or this years at this price level but can't comment on the higher priced wheels. But $300 wheels (Fulcrum 4's) on a $4000 bike doesn't sit well with me.

    Quote Originally Posted by brianb21 View Post
    Could not agree more on having the matching groupset. It cannot cost that much more to have the ultegra crank and brakes. I see that with alot of the bike builders and i just dont get it. I will disagree with you on the wheels they are solid and work well and if you buy them at the right price even better!
    2015 Specialized Tarmac, Ultegra 6800, HED C2 rims
    2014 Specialized Roubaix Expert, Ultegra 6800, HED C 2 rims.
    2012 Giant Defy Advanced 2, Ultegra, Pacenti SL 23 rims.
    Moots VaMoots, Dura-Ace, Pacenti SL 23 rims

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianb21 View Post
    Could not agree more on having the matching groupset. It cannot cost that much more to have the ultegra crank and brakes. I see that with alot of the bike builders and i just dont get it. I will disagree with you on the wheels they are solid and work well and if you buy them at the right price even better!
    Wastes in design and manufacturing costs money and quality.

    By focusing their design on a single type of bottom bracket (BB30), they can optimize the frame design on a single bottom bracket, have tooling for a single bottom bracket, etc. Small costs add up very quick. Big mistakes can happen very easily (bigger dollar mistakes).

    Increased complexity with multiple BB designs make the manufacturing environment more difficult
    2010 Specialized Secteur Elite with the RBR not-approved Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheelset
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er upgraded to SRAM X9 with 1x10 and Stan's Arch EX rims and tubeless.
    2013 Cannondale CAADX-6 Tiagra with 9-speed SLX RD to run 11-32T cassette and Stan's Alpha 400 rims and tubeless
    and
    Some Burton snowboard setups, one with stiff ol' Camber and one with Rocker-Camber-Rocker

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by tednugent View Post
    Wastes in design and manufacturing costs money and quality.

    By focusing their design on a single type of bottom bracket (BB30), they can optimize the frame design on a single bottom bracket, have tooling for a single bottom bracket, etc. Small costs add up very quick. Big mistakes can happen very easily (bigger dollar mistakes).

    Increased complexity with multiple BB designs make the manufacturing environment more difficult
    If an FSA crank fits a bike doesnt an ultegra crank? Not trying to be a wise ass just trying to understand with my limited knowledge of specing out a bike.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianb21 View Post
    If an FSA crank fits a bike doesnt an ultegra crank? Not trying to be a wise ass just trying to understand with my limited knowledge of specing out a bike.
    shimano cranks don't play well with BB30's. there needs to be an 'adapter' of sorts. surely can be done as many have done and will do on framesets. I agree this is a money issue.

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