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  1. #26
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by pmf View Post
    I commute and leave my bike in the car (I drive to a MUT) for a few days in a row. So yeah, I prefer not to have to go out into the garage every night before bed, pull the bike out of the car and pump up the tires. With butyl tubes, you lose maybe 2-3 lbs a day. With latex its more like 15-20 lbs.
    In that case, yeah. I use butyl tube on my commuter bike as well.

  2. #27
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    It's less that carbon corrodes, it's that it nukes most metals if you have any kind of galvanic connection. You see this a ton on boats, where people are unaware of it. Unprotected aluminum attached to a carbon tube (sailboat boom) in the Caribbean (warm and very very saline water), I've heard of people being able to hear the reaction happening.

    If you ever watch the Leuscher (sp?) videos where he cuts frames in half, he always notes where frames have or don't have fiberglass isolation patches at hardware attachment points.

    I prefer latex tubes and use them when I don't use tubeless. At this point, tubeless is basically anything bigger than a GP4000 28, anything GP4000 28 or smaller gets latex tubes. Can understand why people don't use them, but in that case I'd recommend Conti Race tubes. They're shown to be better rolling resistance than regular butyl (not quite as good as latex) and they don't flat any more often than thick butyl from all I've ever heard. Crap tubes are crap.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Quote Originally Posted by boleiro View Post
    What is the latest on Carbon Clincher wheels for descents? I have done a lot of searching but can't very much at all that is recent. Lots of info on how well they climb... but, was hoping to hear experiences of forum members with their carbon clinchers and coming down the mountain.

    To help, the rides would up the Salt Lake City Utah canyons that can get steep, but not too technical. The real worry for me is traffic... technical or not, sometimes with cars on the road you have to brake fast and hard. I understand how to properly modulate braking and to not drag the pads. But, there are those times you have to ride the brakes some dealing with cars and other riders. I fear this! Maybe specific brands and brake pads would be best?

    I really want to get some carbon wheels for the wrong and right reasons. But feel I would be better served with a solid pair of aluminum clinchers due to the amount climbing I do... thinking campy eurus or shamal c17.

    any words of wisdom to guide this purchase?
    I have raced around 200 times in the past four years. Most of my races were on carbon wheels, many were very hilly. My gf races just as much as me, also on carbon. She also trained on her carbon wheels (up until her most recent team went tubular carbon and got her alum clinchers). Between the two of us that is hundreds of races and tens of thousands of miles. The only time I was concerned was about three years back when my girlfriend had some off-brand, cheap Chinese carbon clinchers and the rim warped. Other than that, I don't even think about it. I just ride normally and slam on the brakes as needed.

    So my wisdom is this:

    If you get carbon clinchers, do not get anything cheap. Buy reputable wheels and use the brake pads the manufacturer recommends. Everything will be fine.


    Just ride aluminum and do not even worry about it. If you are not racing, there is not much difference.

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