GP 5000 vs Schwalbe Pro One TL comparison - Page 2
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  1. #26
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    1200 mile update

    After about 1200 miles on the GP5000 TL's, much of it in the rain, it seems they are far more puncture resistant than the Schwalbe Pro One's. I would always have cuts in the tread of the Schwalbes by the time I took them off. No cuts in the GP5000's. That's weird given how much riding in crap road conditions I did in January. Had two slow punctures on the GP5000 TL that sealed themselves quickly, only one of which required I stop and top off the tire with the mini pump. The other only lost maybe 20psi then sealed for good so I never stopped.

    Not scientific but based on long history with the Schwalbe Pro One TL and a solid rainy month on the GP5000 TL, my opinion is the the GP5000 is far more puncture and cut resistant. Wear so far, is better than the Pro One too. Looks like it will go 2000 miles or so. Pro One never got past 1500 on my bike.
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  2. #27
    changingleaf
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    Thanks for the review at 1200 miles. Looks good so far.

  3. #28
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    Tubeless fan here too.

    Quote Originally Posted by upstateSC-rider View Post
    I'm a tubeless fan also, in fact I first converted my old Bontrager race wheels to tubeless back when Hutchinson was the only tire player in town and Stan's sold the kit. I got the feel of a tubed 25mm tire with my tubeless 23mm in an old Tarmac frame that wouldn't fit a 25. Weight is a non-issue for me also since they're fairly close and I carry a spare tube/CO2 whether I'm running a tube or not. I did have a flat with tubeless about 3 years ago when the initial run of Pro One's were released and proven to be fragile, a little messy but definitely not a big deal.
    I've only run tubeless since 2018, the first year when I went over 4k miles in a year. On the first 6mile ride on the first set of Schwalbe Pro One 25, I dodged a small piece of L-shaped metal and the front wheel/tire missed it, but the rear wheel did not. It put a 1 inch gash on the sidewall, and I insta-flatted. Messy, orange sealant everywhere. Luckily, I had a spare tube and a boot to get back home. After replacing the rear tire with another Schwalbe, this time a Pro One 28, I rode the remaining 4k miles on that tire. No flats in the remaining 4k miles. *** A few weeks ago, I decided to replace the rear tire, as the Schwalbe is clearly worn. The thread is squared-off. Stupid me, I decided to replace the rear tire a few hours before a long ride. Without an air compressor/tank. Needless to say, I was unable to get the Schwalbe Pro One 28 to seat into my HED Belgium+. So, I put a tube in the rear tire and hoped for the best. The ride was in the wet rain and of course, all manner of road debris would wash towards the shoulder of the road. After 80miles into the ride, I get a puncture, in the rear tire, where I have a tube. Luckily, I had a spare tube. But 5 miles after that, I get a slow leak. Time to patch the original tube, and this one let me finish the ride. After finishing the ride, I inspect the bike and I see a 1/4inch and 1/8 inch metal sliver in my front tire. I pull these out, and the sealant seals these up toot-sweet. The rear tire with the tube has gone flat, a few hours after the ride, probably another metal sliver or my patch job wasn't too good. I, for one, would welcome the day when there is a road tubeless standard that is easy to mount, easy to install (bead-seat) and sealant-optional. Maybe in a few years.

  4. #29
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    But wider/fatter Schwalbe with lower pressure is more comfy.
    There is only so much chamois padding and saddles can do for comfort.

  5. #30
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    Thanks for the 1200mile review.

    I have noticed that the Schwalbe Pro Ones do get a lot of cuts on the tread, at least in my situation.

    One point though is that the Conti GP5000s are for hooked rims only, which is fine for aluminum wheels. I'm eyeing the ENVE SES4.5AR rims for my next build but these are hookless rims, so the Conti's are not recommended, only the Schwalbe's.

    Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3V are hooked rims.

  6. #31
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    I would like to know what is the purpose of hookless rims? Is there any advantage to this design?
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  7. #32
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    From bikeradar
    https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gea...he-hook-40749/

    However, for road tubeless, manufacturers such as Mavic and Continental have said that for pressures above 60psi, the hooks are needed to avoid blow-off.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emilio700 View Post
    After about 1200 miles on the GP5000 TL's, much of it in the rain, it seems they are far more puncture resistant than the Schwalbe Pro One's. I would always have cuts in the tread of the Schwalbes by the time I took them off. No cuts in the GP5000's. That's weird given how much riding in crap road conditions I did in January. Had two slow punctures on the GP5000 TL that sealed themselves quickly, only one of which required I stop and top off the tire with the mini pump. The other only lost maybe 20psi then sealed for good so I never stopped.

    Not scientific but based on long history with the Schwalbe Pro One TL and a solid rainy month on the GP5000 TL, my opinion is the the GP5000 is far more puncture and cut resistant. Wear so far, is better than the Pro One too. Looks like it will go 2000 miles or so. Pro One never got past 1500 on my bike.

    which sealant do you use?


  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fr0hickey View Post
    From bikeradar
    https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gea...he-hook-40749/

    However, for road tubeless, manufacturers such as Mavic and Continental have said that for pressures above 60psi, the hooks are needed to avoid blow-off.
    Ahhh, lowers manufacturing costs. Nuff said!
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rone69 View Post
    which sealant do you use?

    I use Orange Seal standard formula. As I race all my bikes, it needs to seal quickly. The downside is that you need to refresh the sealant about every 3 months.

    The GP5000 does mount a little easier than the Schwalbe. Acebike 46mm hooked bead rims. The Schwalbe required a little wresting and white fingers. The GP5000 no more difficult than a tight tube type clincher. I carry one steel core tire lever.

    I have now run through one rear but still on the original rear. Small cut in the front but sealed up just fine by itself. Rear was worn to cord (surprise!) and still held air without any new punctures. Overall, loving the tire. Just wish they cost less. To be fair, the Schwalbes were near $95 when first released but slowly dropped in price until now when you can occasionally find them for less than usd50.00
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emilio700 View Post
    I use Orange Seal standard formula. As I race all my bikes, it needs to seal quickly. The downside is that you need to refresh the sealant about every 3 months.

    The GP5000 does mount a little easier than the Schwalbe. Acebike 46mm hooked bead rims. The Schwalbe required a little wresting and white fingers. The GP5000 no more difficult than a tight tube type clincher. I carry one steel core tire lever.

    I have now run through one rear but still on the original rear. Small cut in the front but sealed up just fine by itself. Rear was worn to cord (surprise!) and still held air without any new punctures. Overall, loving the tire. Just wish they cost less. To be fair, the Schwalbes were near $95 when first released but slowly dropped in price until now when you can occasionally find them for less than usd50.00
    Thank you very much Emilio.

    What about comfort, grip and descending quality, comparing the GP5000 vs the Pro One ?

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rone69 View Post
    Thank you very much Emilio.

    What about comfort, grip and descending quality, comparing the GP5000 vs the Pro One ?
    I think I covered that pretty well already in my previous posts?
    www.949Racing.com
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emilio700 View Post
    I think I covered that pretty well already in my previous posts?
    Sorry!
    Thank you very much.

  14. #39
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    Have you run with Hutchinson Performance 11Storm TRL ?

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rone69 View Post
    Have you run with Hutchinson Performance 11Storm TRL ?
    Nope.
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  16. #41
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    Picked up a pair of gp5000 TL 25c today but the just won’t fit my rims... can just about get the first bead onto the rim.

    Unfortunately they’ll have to go back.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevina6 View Post
    Picked up a pair of gp5000 TL 25c today but the just won’t fit my rims... can just about get the first bead onto the rim.

    Unfortunately they’ll have to go back.
    What rims, if I may ask? Hook bead tubeless specific I presume.

    Mine can just about be put on bare handed. Easier than the Schwalbe's were and way easier than the Hutchinson TL I tied a few years back. China Carbon tubeless, 21mm internal. Acebike I think.
    www.949Racing.com
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  18. #43
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    GP 5000 vs Schwalbe Pro One TL comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by Emilio700 View Post
    What rims, if I may ask? Hook bead tubeless specific I presume.

    Mine can just about be put on bare handed. Easier than the Schwalbe's were and way easier than the Hutchinson TL I tied a few years back. China Carbon tubeless, 21mm internal. Acebike I think.
    I have a set of bontrager Aeolus 5 carbon TLR wheels. There just too tight and won’t mount


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  19. #44
    changingleaf
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevina6 View Post
    I have a set of bontrager Aeolus 5 carbon TLR wheels. There just too tight and won’t mount


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Did you try mounting by doing the valve area last?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevina6 View Post
    I have a set of bontrager Aeolus 5 carbon TLR wheels. There just too tight and won’t mount
    Be sure to start opposite the valve end. Push the tire bead into the groove in the center of the rim. Work around both sides like that until you reach the valve end.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Be sure to start opposite the valve end. Push the tire bead into the groove in the center of the rim. Work around both sides like that until you reach the valve end.
    Tried all that even the LBS could not mount them. Have gone with the ordinary non tubeless GP’s. The non tubless mounted in seconds


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  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevina6 View Post
    Tried all that even the LBS could not mount them. Have gone with the ordinary non tubeless GP’s. The non tubless mounted in seconds
    The LBS couldn't mount them?? Oh brother!
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  23. #48
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    Thanks for the review. The GP 5000 is one of the tires I have been looking at.

  24. #49
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    Update on price, finding them from online shops in the EU for $55 (usd) shipped to the US. Best way to google search is to use the brand and SKU from the Conti site: https://www.continental-tires.com/bi...d-prix-5000-tl

    XE.com will give you exchange rates, which are good this week.
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  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by aclinjury View Post
    forget tubeless! Latex tube plus vittoria corsa or veloflex at the front for feel and control. Latex tube and Vittoria rubino or Conti at the rear for longevity.
    Tried same combination you found me absolutely agree with you (best control and best performance) but I am converting tubeless the same, why?
    1) ever thought about consequences of tube exploding (because of manufacture fault, rim heat etc...going flat in one second)
    2) what you do if flat twice or more in a trip? Bring with you many spare tubes? (me bring tubeless worms kit)
    3) rims now are tubeless ready means have to struggle both for mount and unmount whatever kind of tyre, I choose tubeless, ok are a bit harder, but less chances to mount/unmount

    (sorry for my not good english)

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