Pacenti sl23/BHS wheel, strange click
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  1. #1
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    Pacenti sl23/BHS wheel, strange click

    I have a set of these that built not too long ago that have developed a strange click, or tick. It is at the same place in rotation, and it won't do it when it is not loaded at all(spinning with the wheel off the ground), or under heavy load(when I am leaning hard on the front wheel during a climb). I have tried multiple tires, tubes, and bike frames with the same result. Does it sound like bearings? I assume it is still safe to ride, but it is annoying.

    thanks

  2. #2
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    Could be a bearing. Or a slightly loose spoke.

  3. #3
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    It's could be the sleeve inside the rim joint. It's staked by the dimples in the rim bed. Try this - remove the wheel and with tire installed and inflated, bounce the wheel slightly on a hard floor (cement?) to listen for a rattle. Or try tapping the side of the tire against a bench top. If you get any rattle, the dimples can be re-staked. Hang the rim over the corner of a workbench and re-stake with a hammer and a thin punch.
    .

  4. #4
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    Or an extra errant nipple [or nipple washer] inside the rim cavity...
    Quote Originally Posted by Robt57/Me!
    Everything you read that I post is just '1' guy's opinion, try to sort it all out best you can. ;) I will try to add value in my posts, if I miss the mark please let me know using a little decorum.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by robt57 View Post
    Or an extra errant nipple [or nipple washer] inside the rim cavity...
    They usually make noise all the time - which the OP says isn't happening.
    .

  6. #6
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    Valve stem. Make an elec tape gasket on the valve stem and I bet it goes away.

  7. #7
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    Make sure the end caps are tight.

  8. #8
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    Yea, I have had problem with end caps coming loose on those rear hubs though they usually creak rather than tick. I use loctite on them.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    It's could be the sleeve inside the rim joint. It's staked by the dimples in the rim bed. Try this - remove the wheel and with tire installed and inflated, bounce the wheel slightly on a hard floor (cement?) to listen for a rattle. Or try tapping the side of the tire against a bench top. If you get any rattle, the dimples can be re-staked. Hang the rim over the corner of a workbench and re-stake with a hammer and a thin punch.
    This sounds a little beyond what I want to try, and a little scary if it is broken in the way you describe.
    Quote Originally Posted by November Dave View Post
    Valve stem. Make an elec tape gasket on the valve stem and I bet it goes away.
    I was hoping you were right. I tried it and it is still there.
    Quote Originally Posted by twinkles View Post
    Make sure the end caps are tight.
    I tried that as well, even put a little oil inside on the bearings just in case.

    It seemed that I started having issues a couple weeks ago after I changed to a different tire. I sure would think that the rim would be able to handle a tire lever, but it started having a strange pulsing under braking, and then this tick sound. These seem to add some validity to Mike's theory. Maybe I should contact Fairwheel bikes about the rim, but I am not really looking forward to dismantling the wheel.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLD25 View Post
    This sounds a little beyond what I want to try, and a little scary if it is broken in the way you describe.
    It's not broken away but just slightly loose. You can also remove the rim tape (or cut a 4" section out) and dribble some Loc-Tite down through a rim-bed nipple hole so it runs down between the plug and the rim. The plug can be seen through an adjacent nipple hole.
    .

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    They usually make noise all the time - which the OP says isn't happening.
    Not it it get jammed and then break loose and jambs repeatedly. Had that happen once. I knew I dropped a nip and did not got right for it and forgot... ;) I remembered when I got the rattle off and on later...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLD25 View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions.
    I was hoping you were right. I tried it and it is still there.
    Did you tape the entire valve stem where it contacts the rim?
    I had the exact same click or tick and found that wrapping about 1" of tape around the entire valve stem before inserting it into the rim would make it go away.

  13. #13
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    FWIW: SL23s are welded.
    ... 'cuz that's how I roll.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by looigi View Post
    FWIW: SL23s are welded.
    That's true. The joint is aligned with a plug insert prior to welding. I can see the plug in both my sets of Pacentii.

    In the rim bed, adjacent to the weld, are four staking marks to secure it. There are also alignment staking marks that I assume are to prevent it going too deep prior to staking.
    .

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    It's could be the sleeve inside the rim joint. It's staked by the dimples in the rim bed. Try this - remove the wheel and with tire installed and inflated, bounce the wheel slightly on a hard floor (cement?) to listen for a rattle. Or try tapping the side of the tire against a bench top. If you get any rattle, the dimples can be re-staked. Hang the rim over the corner of a workbench and re-stake with a hammer and a thin punch.
    Quote Originally Posted by November Dave View Post
    Valve stem. Make an elec tape gasket on the valve stem and I bet it goes away.
    Quote Originally Posted by twinkles View Post
    Make sure the end caps are tight.
    I feel like i have tried many options. I just trued it and squeezed the spokes in addition to everything else I have done, and it almost seems worse. I tried bouncing it like Mike T said, but no rattle when done that way. I may contact brandon about the hub, and fairwheel about the rim. Looks like I will be rebuilding it regardless.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLD25 View Post
    I have a set of these that built not too long ago that have developed a strange click, or tick. It is at the same place in rotation, and it won't do it when it is not loaded at all(spinning with the wheel off the ground), or under heavy load(when I am leaning hard on the front wheel during a climb). I have tried multiple tires, tubes, and bike frames with the same result. Does it sound like bearings? I assume it is still safe to ride, but it is annoying.
    Check where the spokes enter the rim for cracks.

    Have you isolated which wheel it is and where it is in rotation when the noise happens?

  17. #17
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    Brandon at BHS was also helpful, and at this point, I may just count it as a good opportunity to get more wheelbuilding practice and save a few more grams and rebuild it with some laser spokes while I am at it. Maybe it is a nipple or a spoke, or it could have been uneven tension. Thanks for the help, everyone!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    That's true. The joint is aligned with a plug insert prior to welding. ...
    Yeah. I figured the plug would likely get welded too...but I guess it's possible it didn't/doesn't.
    ... 'cuz that's how I roll.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by looigi View Post
    Yeah. I figured the plug would likely get welded too...but I guess it's possible it didn't/doesn't.
    I wonder if on some rims the weld penetrates deep enough to weld the plug as well and on some it doesn't. I don't know.
    .

  20. #20
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    It's the 'sleeve inside the rim joint'. You can read blogs that Pacenti has had this problem with his rims going back years. This is unconscionable that he continues selling this a high end rim with a known flaw, and builders neglect to mention this ongoing quality problem.

    A local shop and some blogs recommended aluminum window insulating foam ‘Great Stuff’.

    For now my 2015 SL23 rim is quite.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by calrider61 View Post
    It's the 'sleeve inside the rim joint'. You can read blogs that Pacenti has had this problem with his rims going back years. This is unconscionable that he continues selling this a high end rim with a known flaw, and builders neglect to mention this ongoing quality problem.

    A local shop and some blogs recommended aluminum window insulating foam ‘Great Stuff’.

    For now my 2015 SL23 rim is quite.
    I hope it isn't the rim. Any way to tell?

  22. #22
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    20150716_194109.jpg


    I spoke with Kirk Pacenti today and he was quite helpful. He echoed Mike T's suggestion about a little tap on those spots and a little blue loctite. Hopefully I did it correctly. Two places the nail went right through, bit there are lots of other holes in the rim where spokes are, so it should be fine. Not even sure if that was the issue, but worth a try.

  23. #23
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    I think those spots where your punch went right through are not stakes to anchor the plug but dents that limit the insertion of the plug. The inner dents are the ones that anchor the plug. I punched through one of mine too and then I figured that the insert didn't go that far. As you say, it's not a big deal.
    .

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    I think those spots where your punch went right through are not stakes to anchor the plug but dents that limit the insertion of the plug. The inner dents are the ones that anchor the plug. I punched through one of mine too and then I figured that the insert didn't go that far. As you say, it's not a big deal.
    Good to know! So, if I am picturing this correctly, the plug is 3 dimensional, taking up the inner space of the rim?

    I also put some blue loctite down in the adjacent spoke holes, but I wasnt exactly sure what I was doing. Hopefully it doesn't move around in there too much and cause any problems! I was Even able to reuse the Stans rim tape, which I was pleased about. Thanks all for the help

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLD25 View Post
    Good to know! So, if I am picturing this correctly, the plug is 3 dimensional, taking up the inner space of the rim?

    I also put some blue loctite down in the adjacent spoke holes, but I wasnt exactly sure what I was doing. Hopefully it doesn't move around in there too much and cause any problems! I was Even able to reuse the Stans rim tape, which I was pleased about. Thanks all for the help
    The plug is the reverse extrusion of the rim - it fits the whole inside and it has a vertical web linking its top & bottom surfaces. If you look through a spoke hole you can see it.
    .

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