Spoke length and choice for rebuilding a factory set
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  1. #1
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    Spoke length and choice for rebuilding a factory set

    Hi all,

    I'm rebuilding a set of EA70 wheels: http://www.jensonusa.com/Easton-EA70-700C-Road-Wheel-2014

    In the spoke specifications, they list:


    • Front 20 total, 277mm (radial)
    • Rear 24 total, 280mm NDS (1x) and 281mm DS (2x)

    If I can only get even lengths, what lengths would you get? Or should I try to get the exact lengths in the spec?


    Also, I'm deciding on spokes, and I was thinking either:


    • Lasers front, Race rear (or maybe Lasers NDS?)
    • Wheelsmith DB14 all around


    I've only built with CX Rays before, but don't want to spend the extra for this project. Does anyone have an opinion on either of the options, or perhaps another suggestion?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    A wheelist
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    Those numbers are rounded numbers. If you had the un-rounded numbers (if you measured the parts yourself and used a spoke length calculator) you would have fractions of mms and this would better help you decide what way to go. Me, I'd be measuring the parts.
    .

  3. #3
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    Got it, thanks.

    So I took one front, one drive side, and one non-drive side spoke off, and they seem to measure to the 277, 280, and 281 lengths.

    1. Did I measure correctly? I'm going from the center of the bend to the end of the threads.
    2. If I can get those exact lengths, would it make sense to just go straight with what was on there? I'm wondering if I might make a mistake measuring ERD that would throw the calculations off, when I have the spokes right here in front of me.

    Thanks again!

  4. #4
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    Spokes are measured like this

    Spoke length and choice for rebuilding a factory set-spaaklengte.png

    If ordering spokes that are available in 2mm increments, I would round down. So in your case 276 and 280 will be fine.
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  5. #5
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by zucchiniboy View Post
    2. If I can get those exact lengths, would it make sense to just go straight with what was on there? I'm wondering if I might make a mistake measuring ERD that would throw the calculations off, when I have the spokes right here in front of me.
    That's if the spokes in the wheel are the correct length. The absolute best place for the spoke ends to be is at the bottom of the nipple slot. You have a leeway of 1mm on either side of that.
    .

  6. #6
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    +/-1mm isn't going to make any material difference. However, double check to see if the existing spokes are proud of the spoke head (or slot if the heads are slotted) to figure out if the current spokes were sized reasonably well. Adjust up/down from that.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjulio View Post
    Spokes are measured like this

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	spaaklengte.png 
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    If ordering spokes that are available in 2mm increments, I would round down. So in your case 276 and 280 will be fine.
    Thanks Julio - I measured one more time and they came out correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by RHankey View Post
    +/-1mm isn't going to make any material difference. However, double check to see if the existing spokes are proud of the spoke head (or slot if the heads are slotted) to figure out if the current spokes were sized reasonably well. Adjust up/down from that.
    The wheels came to me pretty much de-tensioned, so I'm not 100% sure how they sat. I may do a full ERD + hub dimension measure to see.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zucchiniboy View Post
    The wheels came to me pretty much de-tensioned, so I'm not 100% sure how they sat. I may do a full ERD + hub dimension measure to see.
    If you are confident you are replacing factory original spokes, then I'd just go with the lengths as you measured, rounded +/- a mm based on what you can find. If it looks like you are measuring non-original spokes, then you would be wise to perform a little more due diligence to make sure you are using the correct length. If in doubt, you could probably contact Easton for the correct spoke lengths.

  9. #9
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    I never looped back on this! I got a set of CX rays for these in the same lengths as listed on their site (Easton never responded to me), and laced them up identically, radial front and 2x DS/1x NDS (heads out) on the rear.

    Worked perfectly, and I've put a few hundred miles on them, nice, quick, stable. I got them as a customer return for $40 with very little usage, with "spokes loose" as the description, so the spokes ended up costing me more than the wheels themselves.

    Here's some pics:

    Spoke length and choice for rebuilding a factory set-image-uploaded-ios-1-.jpg

    And here they are with some 38mm Gravel King SK tires on a ride in SF:

    Spoke length and choice for rebuilding a factory set-image-ios-1-.jpg

    Thanks again for all your help!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    That's if the spokes in the wheel are the correct length. The absolute best place for the spoke ends to be is at the bottom of the nipple slot. You have a leeway of 1mm on either side of that.
    Actually, the ideal length depends on the type of nipples you're using.

    With brass, the length isn't critical; anything between the bottom and top of the slot is fine.

    With aluminum, you want the spokes to come up flush with the top of the slot, so the sides are supported by the spoke. This prevents nipple failure and I've never had an issue with Al nipples when I followed this guideline.

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