Is there a rim that wont work tubeless?
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  1. #1
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    Is there a rim that wont work tubeless?

    I was wondering about this question, based on my experience of setting up not specific tubeless rims with stans tape, and tubeless valve stems and running them tubless.

    I have done this with 5 separate sets of wheels, with no problems to date on any of these wheels. 1 was alloy, 4 were carbon.

    In looking at purchasing wheels today, I still get comments from wheel companies that they don't recommend tubeless, for their wheels and I even had one company (HED) say that running their wheel tubeless would void their warrentee and could damage the wheel .

    This what they specifically said: The bead seat Diameter on a tubeless rim must be larger to accommodate the tighter fit and different distribution of forces that tubeless tire exerts on the rim.

    Bead seat diameter larger ? This is a new one on me. Can someone explain this to me and whether this is really the case and if so why has this never been a problem on the five sets of wheels I have set up this way that were not designated Tubeless.

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Tubeless on Open Pro

    Ran tubeless on Mavic Open Pro rims for years with no problems. Its much easier to mount the tire on an Open Pro than on a "tubeless ready" rim.
    I don't have a good way to precisely measure rim diameters. Are tubeless-ready rims actually larger diameter?

    Quote Originally Posted by jackmen View Post
    I was wondering about this question, based on my experience of setting up not specific tubeless rims with stans tape, and tubeless valve stems and running them tubless.

    I have done this with 5 separate sets of wheels, with no problems to date on any of these wheels. 1 was alloy, 4 were carbon.

    In looking at purchasing wheels today, I still get comments from wheel companies that they don't recommend tubeless, for their wheels and I even had one company (HED) say that running their wheel tubeless would void their warrentee and could damage the wheel .

    This what they specifically said: The bead seat Diameter on a tubeless rim must be larger to accommodate the tighter fit and different distribution of forces that tubeless tire exerts on the rim.

    Bead seat diameter larger ? This is a new one on me. Can someone explain this to me and whether this is really the case and if so why has this never been a problem on the five sets of wheels I have set up this way that were not designated Tubeless.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poppadaddio View Post
    Ran tubeless on Mavic Open Pro rims for years with no problems. Its much easier to mount the tire on an Open Pro than on a "tubeless ready" rim.
    I don't have a good way to precisely measure rim diameters. Are tubeless-ready rims actually larger diameter?
    Despite the OP posting over 2 years ago and no one paying attention to it since, here's an answer for you. The 'bead seat' is the outer portion of the rim, the part directly inboard of the brake track. On a tubeless compatible rim that portion has a slightly larger diameter than a regular clincher rim. The center section will have a deeper, smaller diameter section to help mounting tires. Tubeless tires have a stiffer and somewhat differently shaped bead compared to normal clinchers. These features will help a tubeless tire seat and therefore seal the connection between the rim and tire. This is why the original Stan's set-up came w/ rubber rim strips that were much thicker than current tubeless tape or rim strips. There was no way to get a tire to seal on the rim w/o them as there were no tubeless tires OR rims. I'm talking mtb w/ this stuff. There were tubeless road tires before tubeless road rims a few years later and you could usually get them to seal w/ just tape. The current TLR rim and tire combination is a much more reliable combination.
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