tire theory including rotation
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  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006

    tire theory including rotation

    Front tire flatted after a ride; noticed a bunch of glass-like specs in the tire with two major cuts.
    I decided to replace the tire with a Bontrager AW2.
    Back tire was newer and in good shape with one small nick. I sealed the nick with super glue.

    1. Should I rotate the rear tire to the front and replace back with new or just replace the front with new? I was thinking about using the new on the back to protect it from road debris and sacrifice my older Rubino Pro tire but the new tire has Aero Wing technology and I would hate to waste the Aero-advantage in the back. How do you rotate?
    2. Do you see a bunch of micro-debris in your tires? What do you use to seal small nicks?
    3. Do you wait for thin tires or will you replace based on the amount of embedded debris/nicks?
    Thanks in advance,

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Most people put the better tire up front on the theory that a rear flat is easier to ride to a stop than a front flat. I don't rotate, I just replace tires when they're worn down or start flatting too much. I don't bother sealing cuts with glue- if the casing is cut on the inside the tire goes into the trash, if it's not cut it's not a problem.

  3. #3
    Not a rocket surgeon.
    Reputation: tihsepa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    The rear wears faster. Not because or weight but because of torque.
    You always want the best tire on the front.
    Replace the tires one at a time.
    New tire on the front.
    Front tire on the back.
    You can shoe goo nicks if it hakes you feel better.
    Replace when you get thread showing or too many flats.
    Have a nice day.

  4. #4
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: looigi's Avatar
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    Nov 2010

    IMO, gluing cuts does nothing except, as noted, perhaps make you feel better.

    In my experience, I flat no more frequently with well worn tires than with new ones. My theory is that new thick rubber may be slightly harder to get through but it holds sharp shards through many rotations and allows them to work through the tougher cords and belts over many rotations. Thin worn rubber is less likely to hold the objects.
    ... 'cuz that's how I roll.

  5. #5
    tlg is online now
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    May 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by RoadCube View Post
    Back tire was newer and in good shape with one small nick. I sealed the nick with super glue.
    If you're going to glue nicks, don't use super glue. Super glue dies hard and rubber is flexible. The super glue won't hold. Use a rubber cement, preferably vulcanizing rubber cement.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: matfam's Avatar
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    Jul 2012

    tire theory including rotation

    Ditto what has already been stated. I inspect and dig out the big stuff. I do not rotate, after 3-4k I feel like I got my money's worth from both tires.
    People sleep peaceably at night because rough men and woman stand ready to do violence on their behalf. George Orwell

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