Tires are VERY tight... what to do
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  1. #1
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    Tires are VERY tight... what to do

    As mentioned in the butthurt tubeless pressure thread, my tires are so tight, unless they loosen up a lot, they're not coming off on a roadside repair. I have flat anxiety... need a plan.

    The wheels are Cannondale Hollowgram Si Carbon clinchers. Initially, the plan was to mount Conti 4000s (the newest versions at the time). The first tire mounted was so tight, I had to use a beadjack to put it on - so tight, that I didn't mount the other one. I spent the next 20-30 removing the first one.

    While I'm not a fan of road tubeless, I decided that tubeless was the solution - at least, I'd mitigate the pinch/puncture flat risk. The Schwalbe Ones were as tight as the Contis - bead jack to mount them.

    And yes, I (think) I know how to mount a tire, i.e. making sure the beads are centered in the well, work around the wheel... making sure the beads stay in the well...

    Short of getting rid of the wheels (that may be the only option), what would you do? is there a tire brand known to run a bit large? Anyone have an Acme Tire Stretcher? (kidding, I know that doesn't exist... right?)

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldZaskar View Post
    Short of getting rid of the wheels (that may be the only option), what would you do? is there a tire brand known to run a bit large? Anyone have an Acme Tire Stretcher? (kidding, I know that doesn't exist... right?)
    Actually over pumping them to like 140 PSI and let sit for while will do that. I don't know about tubless and if your rims can handle that but I routinely over inflate tires that are really hard to get one with clinchers.

    If you rims can't handle it I suppose you could get them on a regular clincher rim with tubes and do it on there.

    I think I've read tubless tires have stronger beads, so maybe those don't stretch from over inflating but several clinchers I'd done it with definitely do.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    Actually over pumping them to like 140 PSI and let sit for while will do that. I don't know about tubless and if your rims can handle that but I routinely over inflate tires that are really hard to get one with clinchers.

    If you rims can't handle it I suppose you could get them on a regular clincher rim with tubes and do it on there.

    I think I've read tubless tires have stronger beads, so maybe those don't stretch from over inflating but several clinchers I'd done it with definitely do.
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  4. #4
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    Work smarter, not harder!
    You'd be surprised at how much of the excess tire you can "pull" towards the last part to mount.

    https://boydcycling.com/blogs/news/b...mounting-trick
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  5. #5
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    "Work smarter, not harder!
    You'd be surprised at how much of the excess tire you can "pull" towards the last part to mount.

    https://boydcycling.com/blogs/news/b...mounting-trick"

    Oh, I wish that'd work.

    Whether you start at the top and pinch into the well... working your way down the rim - keeping weight on the tire (pushing down)... or hold the wheel up and pinch, shake, pinch, shake.. the goal/result is the same: getting 90% of the tire - both sides - in the center well, so the last bit has room to get over the rim.

    I did ^that^ and still needed a bead jack. The tires snapped on so hard they "pinged".

    The same tires - those Conti's went on the other rims with no tools - no beadjack or tire levers.

  6. #6
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    Are you starting to mount the tire opposite the valve stem and taking off the tire starting at the valve? Counter-intuitive and opposite of tuned tires, but that can make the difference.

  7. #7
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    FWIW, it seems that Conti's always fit tight. It's almost like they decided that the rim diameter should be 621mm instead of 622mm. Soapy water and tire levers, I guess..

    Also, the main reason why tubeless supposedly don't flat as often is due mostly to the sealant. You can use the same sealant in a tube, too. I've been doing that for the last few years, and it's cut down on flats quite a bit!
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ogre View Post
    Are you starting to mount the tire opposite the valve stem and taking off the tire starting at the valve? Counter-intuitive and opposite of tuned tires, but that can make the difference.
    ogre - I usually end at the valve stem - mounting and removing. I'll try removing the tire that way - starting at the stem.

    No Time Toulouse - I sorta like that idea. But, well... it sounds heavy ;-)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldZaskar View Post
    And yes, I (think) I know how to mount a tire, i.e. making sure the beads are centered in the well, work around the wheel... making sure the beads stay in the well...
    How do you do this and end at the stem?
    I find it easier to start a little bit away from the stem, it just seems to make it easier.
    Just carry a spare wheel, your choice, front or rear!
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  10. #10
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    It's not always the tire that is the culprit. Some rims just fit horribly tight as well.

    I have a pair of WTB KOM's paired with WTB Byways that are difficult to mount and nearly impossible to dismount.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    How do you do this and end at the stem?
    I find it easier to start a little bit away from the stem, it just seems to make it easier.
    Just carry a spare wheel, your choice, front or rear!
    You're kidding, right?
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